Bookcase

A well-filled bookcase is a decorative asset to any room and although built-in bookcases are found in many homes, there is frequently a need for additional storage space. A small unit such as the one featured here fits nicely in a student's room or small apartment.

The design is Early American with a "Country Chippendale" styling. Pine or maple of %" thickness are appropriate woods, although oak or even redwood can be used. Nice construction features include stopped dadoes to support the shelves, and molded bracket feel. Shelves and sides are cut from standard 1 x 10" boards so no edge gluing is necessary.

Begin construction by ripping the sides to a uniform 9%" width and 40%" length. Note that the sides rest on the floor and support all weight; the bracket feet are mainly decorative. Both side pieces are rabbeted along their inside rear edges, as shown, to enable the back panel to fit flush with the sides.

There are four dadoes to be cut across each side. The lower dado, which receives the bottom, is run all the way across the board as it is hidden by a molding. All other dadoes are stopped %" short of the front edge. By notching the shelf ends and setting them back from the front edge of the sides, you will avoid later problems if uneven shrinkage occurs between shelves and sides. A power router is one of the most convenient tools for cutting stopped dadoes, but the job can be done with a power saw or an old-fashioned router plane. When both pieces arc laid out side by side, the dado grooves should line up perfectly. Finish the sides by cutting the curves on top and front.

Next, cut the shelves to the dimensions shown on the front view. The bottom is %" wider than the next two shelves, and the upper back edge is given a % x %" rabbet to support the back panel. The other shelves are notched to fit the dadoes and are butted against the back panel.

It's advisable to thoroughly sand the sides and shelves and stain them before assembly; otherwise, there are bound to be glue drippings and smears to cause unsightly marks if the staining is done later. Allow the oil stain to dry for a couple of days, then you can wipe off the glue with a damp sponge without removing the stain.

Size the end grain of the shelves with glue and allow to dry before applying another coat to shelves and dadoes. Insert the shelves and use at least four pipe clamps to draw the joints up tight. Wipe off all glue drippings immediately and use a try square to check the case for squareness. Make sure that the upper shelves are flush with the side rabbets and set in from the front.

Allow the assembly to dry overnight and then measure and cut the back panel to fit with a slight "breathing space" all around. This is fastened with small box nails. Cut the scrolled top and rabbet the ends as shown. The scrolled top rests on the upper shelf and back panel and is held with glue and small finishing nails into the sides.

A % x % x 34%" support strip is glued and clamped to the front lower edge of the bottom to serve as a backing for the front trim. Cut the

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from and side trim to width and length allowing for the 4>-degree miter cuts on each piece. The molded top edge can be cut directly on the trim with a router and Roman ogee bit. or if you lack a router, a suitable small lumberyard molding can be added.

Transfer the pattern for the bracket feet to the front trim and cut with a jigsaw. It's best not to stain the trim until after it is attached, as the mitered joints may require a bit of sanding. Glue and clamp the side-trim pieces in place, and after the glue dries, drive two V/" screws through the sides and into each trim piece. Fasten the front trim using countersunk finishing nails and glue.

The trim is then stained and the entire bookcase is given two or three coals of urethane varnish. Use a satin-type finish and sand lightly with well-worn 220-gril paper between coats. The final coat may be left as is or waxed and buffed. Be sure to apply finish to all surfaces, including the underside of ihe bottom and upper shelvcs. Fill nail holes with a matching filler wax. sold in stick or crayon form. Excess wax is buffed off with a soft cloth.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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