the countertop. All shiplap joints are butted without glue.
Start with the base ends E, which are 1 \Ya" in width and made of two boards held together with top cleats N and shelf cleats F. To achieve the required width, it will be necessary to rip the boards, removing one shiplap edge from each. If an equal amount is ripped from each board, the joint will appear as shown in the center of each end.
If you lack a table saw, use a marking gauge to scribe the ripping line and a portable circular saw or hand saw to rip, keeping M«" on the waste side of the line. Then clamp the board in a bench vise and plane the rough edge down to the line. Remember to sand all parts completely before joining.
Cut four % x 1& x 11 Ya" N cleats and set two aside for later use. Fasten the remaining two flush with the top edges of the base ends, using three countersunk IK* flat-headed screws. The two Y* x x 1 lYt" F cleats are fastened so that the top of shelf G will be 9" from the floor.
Next, use finishing nails to fasten two boards to the F cleats to form shelf G, which is 1 x 1 lYt x Cut two upper rails J to 1 x 134 x 27", and two front trim pieces H to I x 2 x 24",
Lay the ends on their back edges on a flat surface with the shelf in place, and mark locations, then glue and nail parts J and H to the edges. Add two 1 x 2 x 4" filler strips K and the 1 x \ % x 814" part M, which is glued and clamped to rails J. Divider LJx 1J4 x 4", is then glued and clamped to M.
Rip three boards for a 1 x 14 x 2914" counter-top. Join these with two center cleats N, screwed to the underside with 2" countersunk flat-headed screws. These cleats should be located as shown in Figure 1 and exactly flush with the back edge of the countertop.
Add the countertop to the base, driving finishing nails through the top and into end cleats N and upper rail J. Also nail through upper rail J into the ends of the N cleats, two nails per cleat. Set all nail heads.
This unpretentious little cupboard is an ideal project for those woodworkers with limited experience and equipment. The simple nailed butt joints, which advanced workers may consider crude, are quite appropriate and in harmony with this rustic and utilitarian design.
Given care in cutting and finishing, the piece is rewarding and quite lovely, considering the relatively small amount of effort required to build it. It will provide excellent storage and lend warmth to a country-style kitchen or dining room. It's also perfect for the vacation cottage.
With the exception of the drawer bottoms, the piece is built from 1 x 8" shiplap pine. The ship-lap joints can be seen in Figure 2 at the edge of
total joined width of 21". Figure 1 shows three full-width boards used with a narrow ripped board at each end. If you prefer, you can use 1 x 6" boards so all boards will be of more uniform width.
Turn the base over and fasten the back boards with common nails driven through the back into the edges of E, G, and A. Use a saber saw to cut a portion of the lower edge away as shown in Figure 2. This operation will help the cupboard to stand solidly on slightly uneven floors.
Upper sides H are cut to size and shaped with the saber saw. Fasten i x 5% x 25%" upper shelf C to the sides with finishing nails, then nail through the back boards into ends B and the back edge of shelf C. The back boards should extend Yi higher than the sides. Drive one finishing nail through the front edge of each side and angled into the top as shown in Figure 2.
Join shiplap boards for two I x 10% x 23" doors held together with 1 x I ¡4 x 8" cleats P, screwed in place as shown. Cut center divider I, which is % x I % x 24". Lay out both doors on a flat surface with I in between. Allow a Me" space between the doors and I by placing finishing nails between them.
Prepare a beam compass by drilling a hole for a pencil point near the end of a % x I x 10" strip. Exactly 8" from that hole drive a finishing nail through the center of the strip and into a scrap block of stock the same thickness as the doors. Move this block about until you can scribe two arcs that will mark the doors and intersect at the center of I as shown in Figure I. Use a saber saw to shape the bottoms of the doors and part !.
Mount the doors with 3" black H hinges. Allow about Ms" clearance between the doors and trim parts H. Then add the center divider by gluing and clamping to M and nailing to the lower shelf Trim the lower ends of parts H to fair with the curves cut in the doors.
The drawer guides Q, which are of 1 x 1% x 11H" stock, must be very carefully located. Their upper edges should extend %" above rail J to form a guide upon which a corresponding notch in the drawer back can ride. The guides must also be parallel to the cabinet ends and level from front to back. Use a framing square and level to locate the guides and pencil around their ends butting against the back and rail J.
TORW^TTONI FITTERS sc^AKrts = yi"
Using a headless brad chucked in the drill, bore two small pilot holes centered in the outline and through the back. Then drive two common nails through these holes from the back and into the ends of the guides. Also drive two finishing nails through J and into the guides.
The drawers are of I" pine, exccpt for the bottoms, which arc of H" plywood. Front, back, and sides arc grooved to take the bottom. Refer to the drawer detail in Figure 1 for all dimensions.
In the old days, a plow plane would have been used to cut these grooves. They can stilt be cut by hand by clamping hardwood guide strips along the scribed lines, allowing for the thickness of the saw blade, and running a back- or panel saw along the guide strips to cut the sides of the groove. Then the groove is cleaned out with a K" chisel.
Cut % x rabbets on the drawer fronts to take the sides. The back should be given a %"-deep x I" notch located to ride over the guide rail. Assemble the drawers with glue and nails but do not glue the bottom in the grooves. Make sure the drawers are flat and square before the glue dries. The turnbutton is cut using the pattern and fastened with a blued 1 Vt" right-handed screw.
if you would like to try your hand at simple decorative carving, this is a good opportunity. The stems can be carved easily with a veincr chisel or even a sharp penknife. Use a small gouge to cut the leaves. If you have never tried surface carving before, practice first on a scrap of pine.
Round off all edges that would normally receive wear, and then give all outside surfaces a final sanding using 220-grit production paper. Apply an oil slain that will give the appcarance of antique pine. Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours and then apply a penetrating oil finish such as Watco Danish Oil, which is very easy to use. If a clear surface finish is preferred, avoid high-gloss varnishes, which are not in keeping with the character of this simple piece. Two %" porcelain or wood knobs complete the project.
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