Crocodile Pull

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Maybe this fellow doesn't cry crocodile tears, but he does act remarkably lifelike, rolling along snapping his great front jaw and wiggling that long tail. No matter how fierce his cousins may be, his big smile assures everyone that he's strictly warm and friendly.

Start with the body. Enlarge the grid pattern on cardboard, then transfer the profile to a piece of %" maple or pine and cut to shape. Also cut out the upper jaw along the dotted line shown. Later this cutout will be sandwiched between two pieces of W plywood to form the upper-jaw assembly.

Next, the table saw is used to split the tail lengthwise. Set the saw blade to a depth of about 2Yt" and adjust the fence so that it cuts the tail exactly down the middle. Feed the tail into the blade and stop the cut at the point where the tail ends and the body begins. Now, draw vertical lines to divide the tail into about nine equal parts (each about long) and cut to length. Bevel the outside corners of each segment.

Trace the tail pattern on a piece of heavy cloth or, as we did, use an old pair of blue jeans. Be sure to leave a piece long enough to fit into the section cut from the body. Since the cloth should not show, retrace the entire pattern freehand, but make it about smaller in size. Cut out the smaller profile with a pair of sharp scissors.

Lay out the tail pieces in sequence, then apply a thin coat of glue to the inside surfaces and clamp firmly to the cloth. Allow to dry.

The upper-jaw cutout is glued between two pieces of plywood, which are cut to the profile shown as a solid line on the grid pattern. The jaw hinges at the eye on a YS dowel. A hole in the body allows room for smooth hinge action.

Trim the excess cloth on the tail to fit the saw cut in the body. Apply plenty of glue to the cloth, then assemble the clamp overnight. Use a 2" hole saw to cut four wheels from J4" stock. Cut two ellipses from A" plywood and glue them to the inside of the two front wheels. Now drill Y*"-diameter holes at the center of all four wheels. After drilling holes in the front and back of the body, glue and assemble the wheels to axles made from Yt"-diameter dowel stock. Make sure the ovals are in alignment so they make contact with the jaw at the same time.

Give the entire toy a thorough sanding and finish with two coats of penetrating oil finish. The pull string is glued into a small hole in the front jaw.

Record and Tape Cabinet

Here's a useful cabinet that provides a convenient place to store both record albums and tapes. The spacious storage area will hold almost 100 albums, while the tape rack neatly accepts either eight-track or cassette tapes. There's also plenty of room on top, so it accommodates almost any size or style stereo system.

A variety of woods can be used for this project: maple, birch, walnut, oak, even pine, are all appropriate choices. Select the one that best appeals to your needs, interest, and. of course, your pocketbook. You'll note that the dividers and back are hardboard.

Begin construction by making the two sides A. fn order to get the 13" width, it will be necessary7 to edge glue two or more boards. Glue and clamp the joint, then allow to dry overnight. After drying, cut the sides to final length and width. Referring to the drawing, lay out and cut the % x rabbets for the top and bottom shelf, the % x %" dado for the center shelf, and the V* x rabbet for the back.

Next, make the three shelves B. Stock will again have to be edge glued to get sufficient width. Cut to length and width after drying. In order to accept the record and tape dividers, wide x V-deep stopped dadoes are cut into the shelves as shown. This is best done with a router using a straight bit. Lay out the dadoes carefully and make the cuts from the back so they don't show in front.

The top C can be done next. Edge glue stock as required, then cut to size. Use a router with a %" cove bit to cut the decorative molding on three edges.

Cut the tape compartment back D, the glue blocks E, and the back F to size. Take care to make sure the back is cut square. The tape dividers G and the record dividers H are cut from hardboard. Referring to the drawing, lay out and cut the radius for each part. Now cut out the base back and front 1 and the base sides J.

Before starting assembly, give all surfaces a thorough sanding. This step will makj it much easier to final sand after assembly is complete.

Assemble the three shelves B to the sides A, using adequate glue to insure a good bond. Drill

BILL OF MATERIALS

Key

Part

Pes. Req'd

T

w

L

A

side

2

13"

20"

B

shelf

3

12«"

25

C

top

1

13«"

21%"

D

tape compart

1

54"

4%"

24V

ment back

(plywood)

E

glue blocks

2

24**

F

back

1

y."

25%"

20*

(hardboard)

G

tape dividers

5

4"

5S4"

(hardboard)

H

record dividers

3

%m

6"

13**

(hardboard)

I

front and back

2

2"

23**

base

J

base end

2

rr

2"

9K"

and countersink holes for #8 fiat-headed wood screws. The holes will be plugged later.

Apply a thin coat of glue to the tape and record dividers G and H. Slide them in place from the back. You may need to sand the edges a little so they slide easily in the dadoes. Apply glue to the back of the tape dividers, then slide the tape compartment back D in place. Fit the glue blocks E in place and fasten with small nails. (Drive the nails by holding the hammer sideways.) Next the back F is attached with 2-penny nails.

Assemble the base frame (parts I and J) and attach it to the cabinet bottom with 2" #10 round-headed wood screws counterbored to a depth of Finally, attach the top with countersunk 1 #8 flat-headed wood screws.

Now plugs can be glued into all countersunk holes and sanded smooth. Give the entire project one more going-over with fine sandpaper.

The final finishing method will depend upon the type of wood used, and, to a large extent, personal taste. Our walnut cabinet was finished with two coats of polyurethane satin finish followed by a thorough rubdown with 4/0 steel wool.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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