Early American Dry Sink

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The dry sink is truly a classic piece of Early American furniture, its charm and simplicity are timeless. We think the project shown here is a fine example of the basic dry sink design of the eighteenth century.

The uses for a dry sink in today's home are almost limitless. We use ours for a favorite reading light and to display a variety of potted plants. The lower cabinet collects almost anything you can think of.

Except for the back panel, which is plywood, this project is made entirely of I" {%" actual thickness) pine.

Begin construction by making the two sides A. You'll notice that they are 15%" wide, and since pine boards of that width are pretty rare, it will be necessary to edge join at least two narrower boards. For construction of this size, it's advisable to reinforcc the edge joints with dowels or splines. Allow the glue to dry overnight, then cut the sides to length and width. Next, cut the y4 x %" rabbet (see the detail) that runs along the back of each side. Referring to the drawing, lay out and cut the K"-deep dadoes for the shelves. Using the grid pattern provided, lay out and cut the bottom curve.

The upper and lower shelves B can be made next. Like the sides, the shelves are rather wide, so narrower boards must be edge joined. After gluing and drying, cut the shelves to the dimensions specified.

The back C is made of plywood. The plywood grain should run vertically, and care mu^ be taken to make sure that all cuts are square.

Tackle the front frame next. It's important that this frame be flat, so try 10 select boards that are free from warp. The frame must also be square, so make all measurements and cuts accurately. Cut the legs and rails to size, then lay out and drill dowel holes as shown. Glue and clamp the frame assembly and allow to dry overnight. Finally, lay out and cut the scrollwork.

The door assembly is next. Start with the center panel 1. gluing up stock if you don't have a l2%"-wide board. After cutting the panel board to the proper length (20%") and width (12%"), use the table saw, radial-arm saw, or shaper to make the panel raising cut.

Cut the two door rails G and the two door stiles H to size as shown in the bill of materials. Refer to the tenon detail on the drawing for all dimensions. Next cut the Y* x %" groove (see the raised panel detail) on the inside edge of the four panel parts. Before gluing, assemble the frame to check for proper fit and squareness. Also, at this time, drill holes for the V*" tenon pins.

Now, glue and clamp the two rails and two stiles around the center panel. Do not glue the panel in the grooves. Complete the assembly of the door panel and frame by cutting and gluing in the V\" tenon pins.

The components for the tray can be cut next;, Start with the tray bottom J, cutting to the length and width shown in the bill of materials. Next cut the two tray sides L. then lay out and

RAISSD-A^CL DCTA4L.

cut the curves as detailed on the grid pattern. The tray back K, front M, and top N are then made.

Begin assembly of the base by joining the left and right sides to the front frame. Drill and countersink holes for #8 flat-headed wood screws.

Slide the top and bottom shelves B into the dadoes. if this is a very snug fit, do this before joining the sides to the front frame. Now attach the plywood back with 2-penny nails.

Begin assembly of the tray by beveling the front end of part J to match the front angled cut of parts L. Also bevel the lop and boltom edge of part M to match the angles as shown.

The tray bottom can now be attached to the base. Attach part J by drilling and counterboring for —8 flat-headed screws. Use wood plugs to fill the holes. Employ the same method to attach all other parts of the tray.

Fit the door and attach it with two 3" H hinges as shown. A 'A x % x 1W turnbutton is carved and

BILL OF MATERIALS

Key

Pari

Pes. Req'd

T

w

L

Base

A

side

2

I"

15K*

32"

B

shelf

2

r

15"

33"

C

back (plywood)

1

%

33«"

3154"

D

leg

2

r

7"

32"

E

top rail

1

r

2"

20"

F

bottom rail

1

r

4"

20"

Door

G

door rail

2

r

4"

26"

H

door stile

2

r

3"

1554*

I

door panel

I

r

12)4"

20%"

Tray

J

bottom

1

r

15%"

34%"

K

back

1

r

sr

L

sides

2

r

i? y,"

M

from

1

i"

5"

36"

N

top

1

r

6"

36"

attached by drilling and counterboring a Si* ?=6 flat-headed screw. The screw is then covered with a wood plug.

Attach a % "-diameter wood knob to the door frame and plug alt counterbored holes with wood plugs before finish sanding all surfaces.

We stained our sink with two coals of Minwax Special Walnut. After 48 hours, we applied two coats of Minwax Antique Oil finish, allowing 24 hours between coats. A soft cloth was used to hand rub the finish to a soft luster.

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