Eighteenth Century Half Round Table

Train Table Plans

This beautifully proportioned little table is a reproduction of an early eighteenth-century piece. People who enjoy traditional woodworking will be pleased to note that there isn't a single nail or screw used in the construction. All joints are pegged as in the original. Clear pine was used for the original, but cherry or maple can certainly be substituted with equally pleasing results.

Begin by edge joining two or more %"-thick boards to form a rectangle of about 14% x 28X*. Lay out the half circle of the top and locate % x dowel pins at the joints. Drive in glue-coated grooved pins, and glue and clamp the boards together to dry overnight.

Cut the two aprons and two front rails to width and lay out tenons on each end. The legs are ripped from thick stock and mortises are located so that the rails and aprons will be set back from the outer faces of the legs.

It will be necessary to miter the apron tenons that enter the front leg so that they will just clear each other. The tenons on the rails are Vt" shorter than the apron tenons and do not need to be mitered.

The back legs are notchec to receive the back rail, and a bit of care is required here for a wellfitted joint. The notches can be cut by mounting each leg in a V-block jig, which is nothing more than two 45-degree beveled strips nailed to a base. Use this jig to hold the leg while you cut the notch with a dado cutter mounted on a table or radial saw. The notch is cut just deep enough to contain the rail with its edges flush with the leg surface. Cut the back rail longer than needed and later, when it is fitted into the leg notches, it can be trimmed exactly flush.

Now, lay out the chamfers on each leg. Use a chisel to start and stop each chamfer and remove slock in between with a spokeshave or plane. Take care to keep the chamfers uniform and cleanly cut, as they contribute considerably lo the charm and light appearance of the table.

Dry-fit ihe legs, aprons, and rails. Draw the joints closed with clamps while you drill I "-deep holes for ^''-diameter pegs. Cut the pegs longer than needed and drive them in just far enough to lock the assembly together for fitting the top.

Next, drive a small brad into the top center of each leg and place the leg assembly upside down on the underside of the top. When the top is centered, bear down on the legs and the brads will punch small holes in the top which will serve as centers for W dowel pegs driven through the top and into the legs.

Disassemble the table and finish sand all parts, taking care not to round off the edges of the chamfers. The table shown was given one coat of Minwax Early American stain, which was allowed to dry for 24 hours. The final finish consisted of two applications of Minwax Antique Oil, a penetrating-type finish that can be bufled to a soft luster.



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Stereo/End Table

Here's a contemporary furniture design that can be used to house your stereo equipment stylishly, or if you prefer it can easily be adapted to create a handsome end table.

The stereo-speaker wings can be folded up and out of the way if space is at a premium in your home or apartment. No matter which way you choose to make it, though, it's sure to be a most useful and attractive piece of furniture.

Ideally, you should use hardwood for this project. We wanted our table to have a dark natural finish so we selected walnut; however, birch or maple would also be fine choices, especially if a light, natural finish is desired.

Begin this project by making the four legs A, the front and back top rails B, and the front and back bottom rails C. Referring to Figure 2, make the table-front frame by doweling and gluing the two front legs to the top and bottom front rails as shown.

Make the back frame by repeating the process with the two back legs and the top and bottom back rails. Next, on each frame lay out, mark, and cut the VA" radius, the 2V*" width, and the foot taper (Figure 1).

The top should be made next. Note that it is basically a mitered frame D, rabbeted to take a plastic-laminated or veneered plywood panel. Start by cutting the plywood E to size. We used black plastic laminate to cover the top surface of our table. Plastic laminate is available in a wide range of solid colors and simulated wood grains, and can provide an attractive, easy-care finish, particularly for a contemporary piece such as this. Apply the laminate according to the manufacturer's directions and trim off excess at the edges of the plywood.

Of course, if you enjoy veneer work, this is a good opportunity to practice. If veneer is used, it's advisable to veneer the underside of the panel with a lesser grade of veneer to equalize stresses.

The mitered and rabbeted frame D is made i r >






Wood Veneer Table Details

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from !" stock ripped to a width of IV/'. Refer to Figure 1 and Detail A for the frame dimensions. We used a blind-doweled miter joint at each corner to provide added strength. You'll want an attractive joint here, one that's clean and tight, so make measurements and cuts with special care. Use a miter box if you have one. Glue and clamp the frames and secure the laminated panel with finishing nails driven at an angle up through the panel and into the frame. It's best to drill under-size pilot holes for the nails.

The bottom shelf (record rack) can be made next. The record dividers may be eliminated if you plan to use this piece as an end table. Cut the plywood F to size. Referring to Figure 1. rout M"-wide x %"-deep x 5"-long grooves across

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the plywood as shown. A router makes an easy-job of this, but a bit of patience and a sharp chisel will also yield good results.

Apply the veneer or laminate. Use a sharp knife to score and trim away the excess along the edges and covering the grooves. Make the rabbeted front and back frame rails G and the two lower end frame rails H.

Referring to Figure 1, dowel and glue the lower end frame rails H to the front and back rails G. After this frame has been clamped and allowed to dry, set the panel in place and fasten it from the bottom as you did with the tabletop.

Cut the record dividers to size as shown in Figure 1 and glue them into place. The left and right upper end rails I can now be cut; set them aside until you begin final assembly.

The folding stereo-speaker wings should now be built (unless the piece is to be used as an end table). Refer to Figures 2 and 3 for all details and dimensions. Use %" x dowels to strengthen all joints.

Before assembly apply a generous radius (see Detail B) to the rounding of all edges marked with a check O7) in Figure 2. This radius helps to give the table its clean lines, so use eare here.

After careful sanding, the table is ready for assembly. Referring to Figure 2. drill dowel holes in parts A, H, and I as shown. Glue the four W pivot pins into the frames, but do not glue the ends that insert into the speaker wings. The wings must be free to pivot so that, if desired, they can be folded up and out of the way.

Perhaps the easiest way to assemble the table is to lay the back frame assembly on its side, then fit up and glue one end of each upper end rail L Then add the record-shelf assembly. Next, slip one end of each speaker wing onto the pivot pins. Take the front frame assembly and lower it onto the mating parts. Use a pipe clamp at each joint and allow to dry overnight.

The top can be joined by centering it on the upper rails and fastening from underneath with six 2" round-headed wood screws, as shown in Figure 2. The bottom of the rails must be counterbored with a %" drill.

Finish sand all surfaces, paying particular attention to the radius between the legs and rails. Thoroughly dust all parts with a tack rag, or go over the table with a vacuum cleaner dusting attachment.

An oil finish such as Watco Danish Oil is both appropriate and easy to apply. This is a deep penetrating oil and resin sealer-finish available in natural or dark shades. The natural oil contains no pigments and will not color the wood. Apply according to the directions on the label.

Tung oil is another penetrating oil finish that can be applied with a brush or rubbed on with a cloth. It's available in both clear and colored finishes. As always, apply according to the manufacturer's directions.
















top rail






bottom rail






mitered frame assembly



plywood lop






plywood bottom





frame rail





end frame rail





upper end rail





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