Garage Sale Toolkit
Really best used to clean up dust rather than to capture it at its source. A shop vacuum works well for light-duty dust collection from a router or sander. But with its modest air flow and small hose diameter, it can be overwhelmed by the chips and shavings disgorged by a planer or jointer. And a shop vacuum's universal motor is less powerful than the induction motors used on the dedicated dust collectors described below. Also keep in mind that a universal motor has a shorter service life, on average, than an induction motor.
To prevent mold from growing, put a few drops of chlorine bleach in the water that you soak your stones in. To clean up moldy stones, you can lap them on a piece of 1 4-iri. plate glass with either 180-grit silicon carbide sandpaper, or 90-grit carbide particles (available from auto parts stores). Despite any remaining stains, the stones should function as well as ever. From time to time, your waterstones will need further lapping. This keeps the stone flat and clears it of any clogging particles.
Solvent needed to clean up your finish. (Water for water-based coatings mineral spirits or naphtha for oil varnishes denatured alcohol for shellac lacquer thinner for lacquer.) Hiis will fill the reservoir with just enough solvent to help the finish flow better. It also helps prevent the finish from forming a liard-toclean crust at the upper edge of the line of finish on the bristles. Cleaning Up
The table 5 in order to bevel the bottom edge of each stretcher at the same angle as the top edge. Use the curved stretcher to lay out the remaining stretchers and saw the curves on these picccs. You could clean up the bandsaw marks with a curved block of wood and some sandpaper, but I prefer to use a spokeshave because it's quick and dust-free. Set the blade for a light cut and push the spokeshave downhill from the ends of each rail toward the center to avoid tearout. Use firm, long strokes to prevent chatter.
Next, carve out the wall of the pocket using an in-cannel gouge as shown in the photo, above right. I used a * 8-in.-wide gouge for the 6 screws in this chisel tray. Clean up the floor of the pocket with a narrow flat chisel. Carving the pocket. Use an in-cannel gouge to carve the wall of the screw pocket. Clean up the bottom of the pocket with a straight-edged chisel.
To repair a wax finish, or to clean up a surface with too much wax on it, dampen a clean, lint-free rag with pure turpentine, and rub. You'll find chat tile Wax quickly levels out. It's normal to rewax about twice a year, and it you do, the surface will just keep getting better and better. A
When finely set and super sharp a plane slices right across the end grain leaving a smooth, flat surface that you can't get with sandpaper. I plane from the corners into the middle and take out any ridges the plane may leave with a cabinet scraper. M A COMBINATION of vertical cuts and sloped cuts remove most of the waste. Actually, I lean the vertical cuts. This undercutting saves a lot of time in cleaning up the dovetails.
If you don't own a set of Forstner bits, brad point bits will work almost as well. The only difference is tl latyoull have to leave a little bit of space between each hole to prevent the bit from wandering off course, see drawing. This means a little more clean-up work with the chisel.
To make the tabletops, I cut out the circles to rough size on my bandsaw then I drill a l -in.-diameter hole, g in. deep, at the centerpoiiu. I clean up the outside edge with a router and circle-cutting jig. Its best to make three j or more passes with the router, lower- j ing the bit incrementally for each pass.
When the dado-head work is done, clean up the cuts as necessary, and glue together the two halves of each front leg and the two halves of each end stretcher. Be patient and careful in lining up the halves and clamping them, and be sure to remove any squeeze-out in the mortises. After cleaning up the joints and finish sanding, you can apply the finish. I mixed one part boiled linseed oil, one part raw tung oil and one part semi-gloss ure-thane varnish (I use Varathane brand) for my finish. I generously coated the cherry with the mixture, and after 15 minutes,I removed the excess with a soft cloth and let it dry overnight. I applied another coat, removed any excess, and let it dry. For the third coat. I applied the mix with 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and moved up to 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper for the final coat. When the drawing table was thoroughly dry, I finished with a coat of paste wax.
Begin by cutting the top, bottom, and the two ends to size. Lay out dovetails on the end pieces, and cut these with a fine-tooth backsaw and chisel. Use the completed pins as templates to scribe sockets to the top and bottom pieces. Start the socket cuts with a backsaw, keeping within the scribed lines, and then clean up with a sharp chisel.
For getting into very small places, the 1 -dia. horsehair detail brush, with flared tips, is a good choice. You can use this brush to clean up inlays or hand carvings. But I'd pick up a second one to clean the dust from small power tools or the inner workings of larger tools. While the bristles are soft enough for fine surfaces, the shape of the brush keeps them stiff enough to clean in tight crevices.
Drop-in shims offset the fence equal to the depth-of-cut you want to make. Use plastic laminate shims for heavier cuts and construction paper for very light cuts, such as cleaning up saw marks. Drop-in shims offset the fence equal to the depth-of-cut you want to make. Use plastic laminate shims for heavier cuts and construction paper for very light cuts, such as cleaning up saw marks.
A 34'-thick piece for the center and two Vs -thick pieces for the facing, fust keep in mind that the thickness of the finished blank needs to match the channel you routed earlier. It's a good idea to glue up an oversized blank (about 16 long) so you can trim it to final size after cleaning up the glue squeezeout.
You'll need to give the glue a full day to cure before removing the leg from the bending form. After gluing up the remaining three legs, you can break out a scraper and remove the squeeze-out. I also like to follow up with a good sanding to remove as much of the hardened glue as possible. Then just flatten one edge of each leg at the jointer and run the other side through your planer. Plane the leg to a final width of iVs .
Cleaning up around the shop will be easier with a brush and broom from the article on page 8. All the brooms were purchased from McMaster-Carr, including the horsehair broom (7167T4), the tampico horsehair polypropylene broom (7168T4),the multi-surface push broom (7736T11), and the angle broom (7634T22).
The tools. i used only five tools to turn the fruit bowl. (See page 22 for a detailed explanation of the tools used.) A W' shallow spindle gouge (that's been re-ground) does the majority of the turning. A domed scraper is used after the gouge for cleaning up end grain problems. A W light scraper is used to form the underside of the rim. A W skew is used to cut the bead in the pedestal. And finally, a parting tool is used to cut the round tennon. finish cuts. After the outside of the bowl is shaped, the heavy domed scraper is used to clean up the surface, see Fig. 4. (Switch to the small scraper when working near the coved lip.) Be sure that the scraper has a bun- on its edge and that it's always held so that it's pointing downward. To achieve a good finish, make only very light cuts with the scraper.
Finally, go back and make one last pass to remove the waste left between cuts and clean up the mortise. Clean-Up Pass. Finally, go back and make one last pass to remove the waste left between cuts and clean up the mortise. The box below illustrates a more reliable technique for cutting square-sided mortises. I like to start by cutting a hole at each end of the mortise first. Then make a series of cuts, leaving a narrow bridge between each one. A final clean-up pass removes the remainder of the waste and smooths the walls.
A router some bits and these simple shoptested techniques are all you need to add character and distinction to a
Another solution is to rout the end grain first, then clean up any chipout at the corner when you rout the long grain. router. To finish up, make the last routing pass in the normal direction to clean up the edge. Less Tearout. In backrouting, the router is fed in the opposite direction, allowing the bit to clean up the edge as it moves along.
To get the best results, don't rout more than Ifc from the edge of the workpiece, as shown in detail 'a' below. If you do need to remove more material, it works best to clean up the edge in several passes. You can even use this technique for cleaning up the edges of hardwood stock. To see how, take a look at the box below. OS
To remove the remaining waste, turn the workpiece around so you're cutting into the opposite corner. SHAPING THE FEET & ARMS. Once the notches are cut, you can cut the remaining shoulders and profile on the four workpieces. Just cut to the waste side of the marked lines using a band saw. Then smooth the curves with a sanding drum on the drill press. Finally, you can clean up the shoulders on the four pieces with a chisel.
A sanding drum on the drill press (matching the radius of the curve) makes cleaning up the plywood edge of the cutout a snap. Finish with a Sanding Drum. A sanding drum on the drill press (matching the radius of the curve) makes cleaning up the plywood edge of the cutout a snap.
You'll sec that a small area is untouched by the grinding wheel. Clean up these areas with a small triangular file. Lay the chisel on an oil You can also get a cutter designed specifically for sharpening hollow chisels (available from Record Tools, North America, 1915 Clements Rd., Pickering, Ontario, Canada UW 3VI, 800-267-8367). It looks like a metal countersink with an attached pilot. You put the hollow chisel in a vise, insert the cutter in the chuck of a brace, and rotate it, using only moderate pressure. Clean up the inside corners of the chisel and hone as described previously.
Both the jig saw and the band saw are quite capable of making straight cuts, but you can't expect either to produce finish cuts. While a table saw can leave a dead-accurate cut with a surface that requires only light sanding, a jig saw or band saw cut is rippled and its biade has a tendency to wander So if you're going to do your ripping and cross cutUng this way, you'll have to clean up the sawn surfaces with a hand plane or use a router with a piloted flush-cut bit
WHiTE GLUE Used on wood, paper or cloth, interior use only. Dries in several hours and has a moderately strong bond. Poor resistance to water and heat. Emits no harmfui odors. Cleans up with soap and water. YELLOW GLUE Used on wood, paper or cloth, interior use only. Dries faster than white glue and has a slightly stronger bond. Moderate resistance to water and heat. Emits no harmful odors. Cieans up with soap and water. LIQUID HIDE GLUE ideal for fine wood furniture or musical instruments. Interior use only. Sets siowfy. Has good bond and is resistant to solvents and wood finishes. An eye irritant Wlli clean up with soap and water. POLYURETHANE GLUE Used to bond a variety of materials including wood, metal and ceramics. Sets quickiy and pro duces a strong bond. Waterproof. Warning this giue can cause immediate and residual iung damage. This product should only be used with excellent ventilation. Asthmatics and peopie with chronic iung conditions should not use this product Cleans up...
8 After the ' * gouge has shaped the inside profile of the bowl, use the hea vy scraper to shape the outside Up, and to clean up the inside finish of the howl. 4 After the finish shape is formed with the ' gouge, clean up the surface of the bowl with the heavy scraper. Then use the
After slicing away the center sheet of cane, clean up the walls of the groove by slicing vertically with a chisel. After you've removed the bulk of the cane, pare down the walls of the groove with a sharp chisel to clean up any remaining debris. (See right photo, above.) Blow compressed air into the groove or use a stiff brush to remove any loose particles. Now inspect the groove. Any chipped or broken areas on the side of the groove facing the inside of the frame can be repaired easily with some polyester resin, like auto-body filler sold at automotive stores. Don't worry about
Practice brushing on a two-foot square panel before you touch anything of value. It's easy to sand the panel back down to the wood and brush it again and again. After you get comfortable with brushing the panel, go to a garage sale and purchase a small table or chair. Lightly sand it with some 320 grit sandpaper and practice brushing on real furniture.
Reverse the ball and mount it on a stub tenon that you've turned on the cylinder. Support the other end of the ball with a live center inserted into the hole. Now you can clean up any marks left by the skew chisel. Sand and finish the rest of the ball. Undercut its shoulders, too.The cap piece, as shown here, is glued into a shallow hole turned into the face of a waste block. Shape the cap, then part it off the waste block.To clean up the tip, reverse the cap and push the tenon into a new hole in the waste block. Finish the cap on the lathe, then remove it and drill a small, shallow hole for the hanging wire.
The file I use to clean up the fretwork is a fine-grit, half-round diamond needle file that's made by Eze Lap ( 604F). The half-round side will smooth inside curves, and the flat side works on both outside curves and straight edges. This file is available from the source listed at right.
The first step is to rip the workpiece close to its final width (Step One). I never try to hit the final dimension right on the money. The purpose is just to make sure that both long edges are straight and parallel. An extra V32 or Vis in width is plenty. This leaves enough material to allow you to come back later and clean up this face eliminating saw marks, burn marks, or tearout from crosscutting. And with straight, parallel edges to work from, youTl have a much easier time getting square ends when you crosscut to length. Rip Close to Final Width. With the straight, square edge against the fence, rip the workpiece dose to its final width. The extra width allows you to clean up this face with the final cut
Don't try to cut uphill on the left side of the depth cut. If you do catch the unsupported left edge of the gouge on the uphill side of the cove, it will dig in. slam the tool down on the rest, and leave a nastv-looking furrow in the wood. If this happens, you can usually clean up the dig when you repeat the cut on the left side of the cove. Once you've got the shape you want, rc-honc the cutting edge, set your calipers for the final l' t-in. dia. at the center of the cove, and clean up the cove with a couple of light finishing cuts. Use the same technique for finishing cuts but go slower and try to remove any ridges.
You need to make several passes to complete the job, usually between three and five. To cut down on router wear and tear and to speed up the process, you can bevel the edges of the panel on the table saw to remove most of the waste. Then use the router to clean up the cut.
Straight template with double-sided carpet tape flush with the layout line, see Fig. 1. Now the flush trim bit can clean up the edge, see Fig. 2. You do have to stop short of the profile though the bearing won't let you rout tight into a corner. But the template will also help guide your chisel as you clean up the corner.
Clean up sides and square ends with chisel Clean up sides and square ends with chisel As useful as it is, drilling a series of holes and cleaning up the sides of each mortise with a chisel can be a time-consuming task, particularly if you have a lot of mortises to make. For some projects, it makes more sense to use a different technique.
I shown in Fig. 1 and mark the shoulders. After sawing them, clean up the tenons and fit them to their rcpcctive mortises in ihe headboard and footboard. Do not worry about the final fit you'll adjust the tenons shortly. Chamfer each edge the entire length of the rail, stopping in. short of the shoulder. If you don't own a drill press, remove the waste with a Vifrin. brad-point bit. working from both sides. Clean up the inside with a chisel. Test fit a wedge, and adjust the outside angle of the mortise if necessary.
To lay out your top rail, follow the drawing at right. Tenon the top rail, then lay out the arches and cut them on the handsaw or with a good jigsaw. Use a file and sandpaper to clean up the saw marks and fair the curve. Now rout the arches, but save the flats for last. This way, you're less likely to blow out these short-grain portions of the arch.
Spraying these finishes from an aerosol can is fast and convenient. It's great for getting into corners and covering inU'icatc shapes. Spraying also eliminates brush stokes, and there's virtually no clean up. hut you do have to deal with overspra and nasty fumes. At Sf to 8 for an 11 - to 12-oz. can, it's also kind of expensive.
Besides speed, water-based stains have a couple of other things going for them. First of all, they add a deep, clear color to wood. Second, there aren't any fumes that can make the whole house smell like stain. Finally, water-based stains and finishes are safer. Brushes or rags won't spontaneously combust, and all it takes to clean up is a little dish soap and some warm water.
But before you chuck the bit in the drill press, the first step is to lay out the mortises on the work-piece, see Step 1 page 15. You could get by just laying out the ends of the mortise, but I usually take the time to lay out the sides as well. This doesn't make it any easier to drill the holes, but when using a chisel to clean up the mortise later, the lines help you see what you're doing a lot better. The thing to remember when drilling with Forstner bits is that they don't remove chips like common twist 01* brad point bits do. So rather than drilling the hole in a single stroke, you'll want to work the bit in and out several 1 imes with each hole, until the depth stop causes the bit to bottom out. Then just back the bit out, nudge the workpiece over, and drill the next hole in the same manner. And keep this in mind when drilling. The closer the holes, the less clean up you'll have to do with the chisel later.
The Front Leg Template To create the notch on the front leg template (Fig. C), raise the blade on your tablesaw to full height and saw most of the waste. Finish up the cut on I he handsaw. Handsaw the taper on the front leg. Then clean up the saw marks with a rasp or file.
Design Note You will need quite a bit of 5 4 stock for this project, and while it can often be milled to 1 Vis thick, I planed my stock down to an even 1 thick to remove any cupping and clean up the faces. You can leave your 5 4 pieces thicker, but the dimensions for the posts here are based on l -thick stock.
The first step is to resaw a thicker workpiece on the band saw (left drawing below). Then, to clean up the rough-sawn surfaces, you'll need to run the strips through a planer. Planing the strips down to Veneer Sled. To clean up the sawn surfaces, attach the strip to a carrier sled with pieces of carpet tape Clean Up Veneer. Once the glue dries, remove the excess veneer by sanding the edges flush with the faces of the block. Clean Up Veneer. Once the glue dries, remove the excess veneer by sanding the edges flush with the faces of the block.
Once the joint is measured and marked, I cut the cheeks and short shoulders, as shown in the left drawings in the box below. Then it's just a matter of cutting a wide slot down the center of the tenon to create the twin tenons (right drawing below). The final step is to clean up any saw ridges left on the bottom of the tenon in the center and on the shoulders using a sharp chisel.
Clean up corners of tails with a chisel CLEAN UP W(TH CHISELS. The final steps in making the pins are shaping the sides and cleaning up the back corners. This is done with some chisel work. As I mentioned before, the flat spots you made with the router will help guide the chisel strokes. Clean Up Comers. Using the flat edge created by the bit, dean up the back corners of the pin sockets.
Before fitting the tenons, clean up the tenon shoulders with a paring chisel. Round the tops and bottoms of the tenons to fit the mortises. I do this by marking through the mortises onto the tenon ends to provide a visual guide. (See photo.) Then I round the tenons with a chisel and a gouge. (Caution Sometimes the grain on the tenons will cause the gouge to cut deep into the tenon, so take small bites.) Do the final shaping of the tenons with a file that has a safe (smooth) edge so you don't accidentally file the shoulders.
There are two situations that complicate the clean-up. First, you're working in tight comers. Second, the neck of each pin ends in a sharp angle. Remember, you're working end grain and it has a tendency to split off. After removing the waste use a sharp ' S-in. bench chisel to carefully pare the sloping sides of each pin and a XA-in. spear-point cliisel to get into the corners. (See sidebar.) Then pare down to the pin depth line with a triangularsection chisel and undercut the line slightly. Now you're ready for a test fit.
After sawing the arms and crest rail to shape, I clean up the saw marks and fair the curves using a round-bottomed spokeshave and half-round rasps. The best rasps are 49 and 50 Nicholson patternmakers' rasps. You can work these parts comfortably and with great control if you hold them vertically in a bcnch vise.
Barton likes to sharpen on ceramic stones because they stay flat, don't require lubrication, and clean up easily. A dime provides a reliable angle gauge for sharpening. Sometimes, larger chips don't lift out cleanly, but leave bits of wood clinging to the bottom. No problem. Just go back in with the knife and cut them out, cleaning up the walls of the scction afterward if ncccssary.
After you've cut the bevel, the final step is to clean up the beveled surface with a scraper and sandpaper. Use a sanding block, taking care not to gouge or round over the sharp edges of the raised field. I can usually go straight from the scraper to 150-grit sandpaper. As you sand, check the fit of the bevel in its respective stile or rail. You're done when you get the fit shown in the drawing on page 71. The panel should fit into the grooved frame without any wobble or slop, so there's no need to glue it in place. For extra strength, after gluing up rhe frame drive a brad or small dowel pin through the top and bottom rails in the back. A
To resaw, mill your stock four-square (all four sides square to each other) and make sure your blade is square to the table. Make a test cut on some scrap, then resaw the first piece, holding the work firmly against the fence. Push the board through the saw at a steady rate that doesn't slow the blade or tax the motor. Then resurface the sawn face of the stock on the jointer, and resaw again. For safety, use the thickness planer to clean up the sawn side when the stock becomes thinner than l in. or so. P.K. To dimension your laminated part, you'll need to create a straight edge on the part. The best method I have found is to sweep the work over a jointer. (See photo, below left.) Once you have a straight, square edge, you can rip the opposite edge parallel on the tablesaw. (See photo, below.) An alternative is to use the handsaw Mark the width with a flexible straightedge or a marking gauge, then handsaw to the line, pivoting the workpiece on its curve to keep it in contact with the...
Squeezes out of the tube like toothpaste, making it easy to get just the right amount in just the right spot. These are both latex products, so unlike solvent-based fillers they're easy to clean up. That's a good deal, because c'mon, you know you're going to use your fingers to apply it.
Resawing is by far the most demanding job asked of a bandsaw blade. A straight, even cut that doesn't require a great deal of clean up was our gold standard. We tested all the premium resaw blades we could find that can safely be used on a 14-in. bandsaw (see Blade Thickness, page 106, for more on this topic).
After all the machining is done, remove the protective film and use sandpaper to lightly round-over the bottom edge. You can clean up machine marks and scratches by carefully using a blowtorch (Photo 8). The result is a crystal-clear finish that's not really necessary, but it sure looks good.
8 Cut bevels on the underside of the top with a sliding jig (at left). If your saw tilts to the right, move your fence to the left side of the blade.This jig keeps your hands out of harm's way and holds the workpiece so securely that you'll only have very shallow saw marks to clean up. Use a 3-in. C-clamp to hold the workpiece.
In addition to the standard tape measure and a sharp pencil, your basic set of tools should include a steel rule, a combination square, a marking gauge, and a sliding bevel. Adding a striking knife to your toolbox will be useful for joinery. A cut layout line provides an easy reference for placing the edge of a chisel to clean up the joint
After cleanup with a chisel, the two mortises should meet in a sharp corner (detail 'a'). Once the mortises are laid out, the How-To box on page 36 shows how to cut them. You can rough out the waste at the drill press, then clean up the mortise at the bench with a sharp chisel. The two mortises on the adjacent faces should meet as shown in the detail.
That's how I remember my first experience spraying lacquer with a high-pressure, compressed-air system. It was frustrating and dangerous. My second experience wasn't much better I worked in the garage with the door open and spent the rest of the afternoon and the next day cleaning up
After cleaning up glue squeeze out with a damp rag I've always had a real tough time sanding inside corners to remove the raised grain. A sanding block is too bulky to sand completely up to the joint. I wanted something stiff and controllable. The solution is quite simple I lay one 150-grit, self-adhesive sandpaper disk on one side of a flexible wallpaper knife and trim to fit. On the other side goes 220-grit, self-adhesive paper which gets trimmed too. Now I can sand cleanly to all inside corners. I just peel off and replace the sandpaper when it's worn.
Mortising work comes next, and there arc plenty of mortises to cut in this project. Andrews cuts his I 'u in. deep, making most of them with a V in. mortising bit in the drill press. To cut the angled mortises in the re*ar legs, shown in the side view in Fig. 3. he uses a bevel gauge to lay out the angles on the side of the legs. Then he uses a hand drill to remove most of the waste, cleaning up the walls of the mortises with a chisel.
One of the biggest, dirtiest, unhealthiest and probably the most hated jobs for a woodturner is cleaning up wood-shavings and dust. The fewer tools, timber and equipment there are to get covered in dust and shavings, the easier the working and cleaning becomes. A large external door on the turning area makes for easy disposal of the wood-shavings. Perhaps you may want to include the bandsaw in the turning area because, like the lathe, it creates a lot of dust, shavings and off-cuts. But a tew years ago I moved my bandsaw outdoors, to give me more room for a project I was working on, with the intention of moving it back when the project was finished. However, I loved using the bandsaw outside in the fresh air and the dust and off-cuts were much easier to deal with. I also loved the improvement to the workshop environment and consequently, the bandsaw did not go back. Yes. there were days when I couldn't use it because of the weather (even in Scotland) but this was far offset by the...
6 Finally, to complete the tails, use light paring cuts to clean up the sides. Be sure to keep the sides and shoulders square to the face. After removing ail the waste, clean up the sides of the dovetails by making light, paring cuts with the chisel, see Step 6, The goal here is to keep the shoulders and sides of die tails square with the face of the workpiece. After most of the waste is removed, start cleaning up the shoulders and sides of the pins, see Steps 12 and 13.
1-in. aluminum angle would fit in flush with the surface of the shelf. I epoxied T-track into a dado that runs parallel to the aluminum edge. The T-track accepts clamps that hold the work-piece securely while allowing clearance for the router base. To use the jig, just clamp the board so the uneven edge just overhangs the aluminum angle. Then clean up the edge with
3 If you want a mortise with square corners, start by chopping straight down at the ends. Then clean up the corners by paring down on the sides of the mortise. But to clean up the sides of the mortise, the end mill bit has a definite advantage. As a router A couple words of caution. Don't clean up the entire face of the sides at one time. Instead, lower the bit W and slide it back and forth. Then lower the bit another H and so on. Also, be sure to keep a firm grip on the workpiece when sliding it sideways. The mill bit can grab a little as it removes the waste.
In a pinch, you can cut a dado with an ordinary saw blade and some hand tools. Saw the sides of the dado to the proper depth and remove most of the waste with a chisel. Then clean up the bottom of the dado with a router plane. In a pinch, you can cut a dado with an ordinary saw blade and some hand tools. Saw the sides of the dado to the proper depth and remove most of the waste with a chisel. Then clean up the bottom of the dado with a router plane.
I found it best to start on the inside of the frame and work outward, adding the pieces one row at a time, as shown in the box below. This way, you can clean up any unevertness on the outside of the frame when you're done. You can just trim the edges flush and sand them smooth.
Finish cits on the insiue, After the rim was shaped, I used the heavy domed scraper to clean up the inside of the bowl. Once again, I made very light passes, starting at the center and moving out to the rim, see Fig. 8. Make as many passes as needed, or until the results fail to improve. Then sand the bow-1 inside and out.
For convenience, I made the mortises for the twin tenons *A in. deep as well. That way. the top and bottom rails would be the same length. You can cut these mortises on the drill press by using a fence clamped to the table to align the work and making lines of overlapping holes. Then clean up the sides and comers with chisels. Rather than bothering with complicated machine settings, 1 cut the matching twin tenons with a dovetail saw and chisel. You can use the drill press to rough out the six apron mortises, which are all 1 in. deep.
When it comes to cutting the feet and stretchers for the workbench on page 20, a few cuts on the table saw and band saw will get the workpieces in shape. Then it's just a matter of cleaning up the edges with the router. SMOOTH THE EDGE. The final step is to clean up the rough-cut edges using a pattern bit in a router. To do this, you can clamp a straightedge along the layout line. Then using the straightedge to guide the pattern bit, make a pass stopping as close to the beveled corners as possible. Then flip the workpiece over, reattach the template and rout the remainder of the profile. Finally, clean up the corners with a chisel.
There are many different ways to make a mortise, but well concentrate on three of the easiest. Perhaps the simplest of all is to use a drill press. Lay out the mortise, remove as much waste as possible by drilling overlapping holes, then clean up the sides and from the sides and ends of the mortise with chisels. Use an ordinary' beveled-edge paring chisel to clean up the sides and if you have one a mortising chisel to square the ends. When cleaning up a mortise, use a mortising chisel to square the ends or remove large amounts of stock. Most chisels are designed to be used alternately as a cutting tool and a wedge you cut down through the grain, then split out the waste. A mortise leaves little room to work in this manner, so a mortising chisel splits as it cuts. The thick blade with its steep bevel pushes the waste to one side as you cut down through the wood. Note Always place the cutting edge of a mortising chisel across the wood grain.
The base offers good visibility, making it easy to follow a pencil line. I like to use it for cleaning up the saw marks after making curved cuts with a jig saw or band saw. And since the sander accepts drums from Vi to 2 in diameter, you can get into the tight curves easily.
1 Free-hand rout the hinge mortises in the back of the JLvJ chest. Support blocks help steady the router on the edge of the back. Rabbets on the blocks create a free zone where you can position, start and stop the router safely. Rout close to the layout lines then clean up the shoulders with a chisel.
Groove to place the chisel ill when cleaning up the sides. start the chisel when you clean up the s.aes .von't deflect during the cut. the holes to keep them straight. Notch the Comers. Starting with a notch in the top comers makes it easier to clean up the ends of the mortise with a smaller chisel. matches the width of the mortise. The wide blade helps keep a straight edge when smoothing the sides. The narrower chisel is for finishing the ends. The illustrations below show you the sequence I use to clean up the mortise. SQUARE THE MORTISE. After you've finished drilling out the holes, Ore next step is to clean up and square the mortise. For this, I begin by placing the workpiece in a vise or securing it to the bench with clamps. 1 like to work directly over the mortise so 1 can use my body weight to push down on the chisel. This position also gives me a better view of the work. I use two sizes of chisels to clean up the mortise. Tire first is a wide blade usually ). The second...
3 At this point, cut the mortises on the two faces with the patterns. Drill a series of overlapping holes. Then clean up the cheeks with a chisel. you a cleaner cut Both have a curved edge for cleaning up the top of the foot and a flat edge for shaping the sides of the foot
A rabbet plane has an iron that goes all the way to the edge of the body so you can plane up to a shoulder. It's the perfect choice to shave down a tenon for a snug fit. The Stanley 93 shown here is actually two planes in one. Loosen the knuilod knob at the top and the lower unit drops out as a chisel plane. On a chisel plane, the blade sticks out the front, which makes it ideal for removing glue, cleaning up the corners in a hinge mortise or trimming plugs. This tool may not fall into your daily-use category, but when you need it. you L, can't beat it.
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