Circular Saw Method

If the thought of using a hand saw to cut the tenons on the garden arbor posts doesn't appeal to you, a hand-held circular saw is another possible option.

MAKE KERFS. All you have to do is set the depth of cut to match the shoulder depth of the tenon. Then cut a series of kerfs until you reach the shoulder line of the tenon, see first drawing. (Note: Start cutting the kerfs at the end of the post and work in so that the saw will always be firmly supported.) Now just flip the post over and cut kerfs on the other side of the tenon.

REMOVE WASTE. To finish the tenon, just knock the waste off with a couple blows from a hammer or mallet. Then clean up the faces of the tenon with a wide chisel, see second drawing at right.

Cut kerfs. Starting at the end of the post, cut a series of kerfs across the tenon.

Remove waste. Knock off waste with a hammer. Then chisel sides clean.

Cut kerfs. Starting at the end of the post, cut a series of kerfs across the tenon.

Remove waste. Knock off waste with a hammer. Then chisel sides clean.

Sharpen a chisel on the table saw11t might sound a bit crazy, but you won't be able to argue with the results — a perfect hoUow ground edge.

This jig mounts on top of the table saw and is driven by a belt and pulley mounted on the saw's arbor. The safety hood, carriage, and tool rest can be installed quickly.

Table Saw Mendrel

process much quicker, see the sharpening article on page 28. But a low-speed grinder works quickly without burning the metal and ruining the tool. The trick was coming up with a way to do it economically.

So when Ted, our creative director, suggested that tire jig could work on the table saw, I was intrigued. Right off the bat, you're saving money because you don't have to buy a motor. All you need are two pulleys, an arbor assembly, a belt, and a grinding wheel (or two if you like). And since the jig mounts to the saw's table, it doesn't take up any shop space.

To get the power from the motor to the jig, you use the saw's arbor. Simply remove the blade and replace it with a small pulley. A larger pulley in the jig slows down the speed of the grinding wheel to about 1700 ipm.

And as an added bonus, there's also a tool rest and carriage that hold ;uid guide the blade. The tool rest lifts off easily so you can check your progress. And the carriage includes a micro-adjust feature so you don't remove the metal too quickly.

Note: Because this jig requires a lot of hardware, it's a good idea to have it on hand before building the jig. This way, you'll avoid any surprises.

Of course, the real test is how well it sharpens. After using used the jig to sharpen my own tools (as well as some others that suddenly "appeared" on my bench), I'd say it works great.

Building a low-speed grinder is something I've wanted to do for a long time. Like any grinder, it puts a hollow ground bevel on a chisel or plane iron, making the sharpening

This jig mounts on top of the table saw and is driven by a belt and pulley mounted on the saw's arbor. The safety hood, carriage, and tool rest can be installed quickly.

Assembly Table Woodworking


The heart of the grinder, that includes the pulley, mandrel, and wheels


Holds chisel or plane iron securely while grinding

Guide Bar

Belt Opening

Micro-adjust Block

Exploded View


Encloses the jig and captures the sparks and grinding dust


Guides the tool rest forward and back and side to side

NOTE: To determine the pulley size for your saw, see chart on page 35


Aligns the grinder on the table saw and acts as a platform for the jig

Runner and Stop

Groove for carriage

Mandrel Shaft

Optional Grinding or Buffing Wheel



Base (1)

3/4mdf -



Hood Walls (2) V2 x 7%


Q Guide Bar (1) y> x 2y>

- 6%


Base Runners (2)

y4 x 3/4 -



Flanges (2) 1/4 hdbd.

- 21/4 x 6%

R Adj. Block (1) V2 x 1 -



Stops (2)

1/4 x 3/4 -



Hood lop (1) 1/2 x 3 -


S Tool Rest Center (1)y2 x 11/4



Dividing Walls (2)

y2 x 93/4

- 7%


Hood Back (1) 1/2 x 2%

- 13%

T Hold Down (1) y2x7/8-



Cleats (2)

3/4x 11/8

- 8V2


Hood Panel (1) 1/4 hdbd

- 711/i6 -13%

U Tool Rest Front (1) V2x 1%

- 3 rgh.


Mandrel Blocks (2) 11/2 x 3 -



Carriage Base (1) 1/2 x 4-


V Tool Rest Back (1) x 21/2

- 3 rgh.


Pulley Panel (1)

1/4 hdbd.

- 2 x 523/32


Carriage Runner (1)% x 3/4


W Front Stops (2) 1/4 hdbd

-1/2 x 2


Pulley Lid (1)

y4 hdbd

- 2 x 33/is


Carriage Sides (2) V2 x 2 -


X Back Stops (2) 1/4 hdbd

- y2 x 3y8

(6) V4"-20 Threaded Inserts

(14) #6 x 1" Fh Woodscrews (6) #8 x 1V Fh Woodscrews (1) 2"-dia. Hub-less Pulley


(4)1/2" I.d. x 1" o.d. x3/8" Nylon Spacers

(4) 1/4" x 11/2" Lag Screws w/Flat Washers

(1) Mandrel Assembly w/%" Drive Shaft

(2) Grinding or Buffing Wheels (2) #14 x V/2" Fh Woodscrews

(3) 10-32 Brass Knurled Knobs

(1) 10-32 Threaded Insert

(5) 1/4"-20 Plastic Star Knobs w/1" Stud

(1)10-32x2" Rh Machine Screws

(2) 10-32 x 2" Fh Machine Screws


The low-speed grinder starts out as a simple base, see drawing at right. It aligns the grinder on the table saw and serves as a platform for the arbor assembly and the tool rest.

BASE. To begin the base (A), I started by cutting it to finished size (19" x 20") from 3/4"-thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF), see drawing.

Next, an opening can be cut in back of the base to provide clearance for the belt. This l"-wide opening is centered on the width of the base and is 9:W long, see drawing.

With the belt opening complete, I cut a couple 3A"-wide, '/s"-deep grooves on top of the base, see drawing and detail 'c'. These will hold the tool carriage, allowing it to slide forward and backward so you can adjust the position of the tool.

Next, I added six lA"-20 threaded inserts, see Fig. 1. Two are located in the grooves and will help to secure the carriage with a studded plastic knob, see detail 'c' above. The other four inserts will help to secure the safety hood, see detail 'b'.

There's one more set of holes to drill. These are countersunk shank holes for the screws that will secure the mandrel blocks to the base, see drawing and detail 'a' above.

Table Saw Mendrel

- cross section d. cross section

3/is" shank for mandrel blocks

W-20 insert for safety hood

RUNNERS. Now, the base is ready for the runners that position it on the table saw, see Fig. 1. These '/i"-thick hardwood runners (B) are cut to fit the miter gauge slots in the table saw, but they're ' W longer than the base. (They extend in front to allow room for stops added later.)

The goal here is to center the belt opening over the 2" pulley that's mounted to the saw's arbor, see Fig. 2b. (You'll need to temporarily install the pulley to position the base.) And when the base is in position, slide the saw's rip fence up against it, see Fig.

2. Now you can remove the base and put it back without worrying about changing its position.

To install the runners, I applied a little glue and set them in the miter gauge slots, using washers to shim them above the table, see Fig. 2a. Then I set the base in place and pressed down until the glue had set.

STOPS. Next, I added screws to secure the runners, see Fig. la. Then to hold the base flush with the front of the saw's table, I glued two small W'-thick stops (C) to bottoms of the runners, see Figs. 1 and la.

FIRST: Center belt opening on arbor pulley


Set rip fence against base


Glue runners to base. Then add stops

2" pulley on saw arbor

Add stops under runners

Rip fence r A

Stack washers to shim runner -r-1----

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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