• Ordinarily when installing drawer pulls, I do it the old-fash ioned way. Measure, mark, drill, attach. But when faced with lots of pulls and lots of drawers, I take a different approach — I use a shop-built alignment jig.
The Wall Storage System on page 20 is a good example. The project calls for ten small drawers, all the same size, with pulls all attached in the same location.
An alignment jig makes thiseas-ier and more accurate, see Fig. 1.
The jig consists of just two "L"-shaped pieces of scrap glued together, see Fig. la. (The L" is created by cutting a small notch out of one corner.)
On the top piece the notch holds one corner of the drawer pull. The bottom piece acts as a cleat to position the jig in the right place on the drawer.
"SLIDING TENON "
•I ran into a unique problem building the Garden Bench on page 6. The back of the Bench has a number of pieces thatfit together with mortise and tenon joints. But on this project, the number of tenons on the different parts make the Bench almost impossible to assemble.
The problem is, the tenons on several different parts have to be inserted at the same time. An ordinary tenon that fits tight in a mortise wouldn't work — it getsinthewayduringassembly.
The best answer would be a "tenon bender," but I've never heard of one that worked. So in stead, I cut one ofthe tenons un- stalled below, the rail is slid dersize ("shorter") so it can down the mortise onto the ten-slide into its mortise, see Fig. 1. ons on the slats, see Fig. 2.
During assembly, the under- "SLIDING" JOINT. Isn't there a size tenon is inserted into the weakness with a sliding joint like mortise so the top of the tenon this? Not really. There's adequate fits against the top of the mor-glue surface between the inside of tise, see Fig. 1. the mortise and the cheeks ofthe
When the slats have been in- tenon to make thejoint strong.
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