With the case complete, the next step is to make the drawer to fit the case. It's built like any drawer, but to organize the spicejars, it has a series of dividers.
SIDES, FRONT Sack. When building tl drawer, start by cutting the drawer sides (E) and the front and back (F) to finished size, see Figs. 8 and 9. To determine the height and length of these pieces, first measure from the top of the dowel to the case top (B) and subtract V^'Tor clearance. (My sides, front,and back wer£7/i6" high.)
Next cut the drawer sides the same length as the case sides (mine were IIV2"). Then cut the front and back to a length of lS1^". This provides a Vie" clearance between the case and the drawer sides.
LOCKING RABBET, usa&cking rabbet joint to assemble the drawer. To make the joint, the first step is to cut dadoes across the side pieces, see Fig. 9a. Then, cut a rabbet at each end of the front and back pieces, see Fig. 9b. These rabbets create a tongue that should fit snug in the dadoes on the sides.
DIVIDERS. Next, three shallow dadoes are cut in the sides to hold the drawer dividers, see Fig. 10. Design Note: These dividers organize the spices in the drawer. Because they don't get glued in place, you can add or remove them to fityour needs. But if you don't want the extra dadoes to show on the sides, lay out and cut only those you
your individual spice containers. GROOVE. After the dadoes in the sidesnd closed without binding.
cated in both sides need to be aligned with each other so that the drawer will slide open have been cut, the next step is to cut a groove for a ¥4" plywood bottom in each side, back and front, see Fig. 11.
My plywood was less than V4" thick, so I made a couple of passes with a regular saw blade to sneak up on the groove width. I ad-
An accurate way to keep the pin holes on each side aligned is to drill both holes at the same time, see Fig. 12. Use carpet tape between the sides to keep them from shifting when drilling the holes. SHANK HOLES. Finally, two countersunk justed my ripfence to widen the groove until shank holes are drilled on the inside of the the bottom 1
each drawer side for a pivolpin. The pinäo-
drawer front, refer to Fig. 8a. These holes twill be used later f (I) to the drawer.
PIN HOLE. Now, drill a hole centered iiwill be used later for attaching a false front each drawer side for a pivolpin. The pinäo-
DRY ASSEMBLY. Before the drawer be glued together, the plywood bottom (G) must be cut to its finished size. To do this, first dry assemble the drawer pieces. Now measure between the sides and front and back. Next, add 7/i6n (for the bottom grooves) to these dimensions. Then cut the plywood bottom to this size.
Finally, glue and assemble the drawer, refer to Fig. 8.
CLEARANCE bevel. After the glue has dried, cut a 45° bevel along the top back edge of the drawer, see Fig. 13. This bevel allows the drawer to drop down when ifs pulled out of the case.
pivot pins. To hold the drawer in the grooves and still allow it to pivot open, a pair of pivot pins are glued in the sides (E), see Fig. 14. Start with extra-long pins (in my case, 1" long) and then use a hand saw to trim them to length until the drawer slides
smoothly in the grooves, see Fig. 14a viders so that their finished height fits flush DRAWER DIVIDERS. The next step is to with the top edge of the sides. Then cut make the drawer dividers (H). To ao this, them to length for a snug fit between the I resawed and then planed a ^"-thickboard dadoes in the drawer sides, see Fig. 15. into twoV4"-thick boards. Next, rip the di-Note: My dividers measured ISHV long.
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