Front Leg

' NOTE: Tilt blade J12 to cut Arm to length

RAILS & STRETCHERS

At this point the two end assemblies are complete. When these are connected, the project begins to look more like a bench.

Connecting the end assemblies is the job of four pieces: two seat rails, and two stretchers.

front & backSEAT RAILS. I started by cutting the front (G) and back seat rail (H) to the same length and width, see Fig. 13. Note: These are cut from lV^'-thick stock, just like the legs.

FRONT & BACK STRETCHERS. Next, the two stretchers that connect the end assemblies below the rails can be cut, see Fig. 13. These parts, the front (I) and back stretcher (J), start out the same length and thickness as the front and back rails, see Fig 13. But they're narrower (IV2") because they don't support as much weight

TENONS. Now tenons can be cut on the ends of all four pieces.

Design Note: The tenons are the same length (J/\61') and thickness (V2'1) on all four pieces. But the tenons on the pieces fit into different-size mortises — the tenons on the rails are wider than those on the stretchers, see Figs. 13a and 13b.

LAP JOINTS. When the tenons have been completed, work can begin on therest of the joints needed on the back rail and stretcher. Theses joints are simply notches that are cut to accept the two back uprights, refer to Fig. 23 on the facing page.

Note: The notches are cut on the front face of the back rail (H) and on the ¿acAface of the stretcher (J). To cut the notches, I used a dado blade in the table saw, see Fig. 14.

Another Note: There's something a little different about the notches on the back rail. The notches on the front also extend across the top edge, see Fig. 14a. And there's a good reason for this.

When the back slats are added later, they will be installed at an angle to match the angle in the back uprights, refer to Fig. 23. By cutting a notch in the upper edge ofthe back seal rail now, a notch in the back upright will fit the notch in the seat rail perfectly.

bevel. After all the notches have been cut, the next thing to do is rip a bevel on the back rail. This is to allow the back slats to lean at the same angle as the back legs.

Rip the bevel at a 12° angle along the top edge of the back rail, see Fig. 15.

Angled MORTISES. Speaking of the back slats — they fit in mortises along the top (beveled) edge of the back rail, refer to Fig. 23. By drilling these mortises at an angle (see Fig. 17) the tenons on the back slats don't have to be angled. (Cutting tenons at an angle can be tricky.)

Shop Note: The easiest way to drill the angled mortises on the drill press is to support the workpiece with a beveled fence, see Fig 17.This is simply apiece ofscrap that's been beveled to the same (12°)angleas the rail.

Also, an auxiliary table on the drill press helps support the long rail as ifs being drilled, see Fig. 17.

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