Garden Bench

The Garden Bench shown on page 6 didn't require any hardware other than some screws and 4d finish nails. But for an outdoor project, you can't use just any type of screw — some will rust, creating dark stains.

What you need are screws that resist corrosion. For the Bench, I used galvanized deck screws. Deck screws have a heavier galvanized coating than

Diamond Honing Files To touch up the edges router bits, use diamond honing files, see page 25. For sources, see below.

Diamond Honing Files To touch up the edges router bits, use diamond honing files, see page 25. For sources, see below.

we galvanized woodscrews. And they've been hardened, so the heads on the long screws are less likely to twist off. Deck screws and finish nails are available at local home centers and hardware stores.

GLUES. This Bench alscre-quires glue that can stand up to outdoor conditions. In the past, I've used a variety of glues on outdoor projects —epoxy, plastic resin, even some construction adhesive.

This time I tried something new (to me anyway). Instead of the mess of working with a two-part adhesive, I assembled the Bench with aready-to-use glue, Franklin's Titebond II.

Titebond II is easy to use. It works like other yellow (PVA) glues. But unlike other yellow glues, it doesn't cure by evaporation alone. It also cures by a chemical reaction like two-part glues. This means the glue is water resistant when cured. (Which is not quite the same as waterproof. You can't leave it submerged in water.)

PAINTING SUPPLIES. Because I wanted to avoid having tare-finish the Garden Bench often, I made sure it was well protected, see the article on page 15. To do this, I ended up with quite a few painting supplies. But they're all available at local paint stores. (I got most of mine at Sherwin Williams).

REPELLENT/PRESERVATIVE. I applied a coat of water repellent/preservative before paint

PRIMER & SPACKLING. When priming, either oil-based or al-kyd primers penetrate the best and give better protection. When the primer had dried completely, I used interior/exterior spackling to fill the cracks and screw holes.

PAINT. Finally, use a latex paint for the top coat Because latex is more flexible than oil-based paint, it can expand and contract with the wood better.

Will the latex still expand when there's a harder oil-based primer? I wondered about this too and made some calls. I was told that latex will still be flexible as long as you put only one coat of oil-based primer underneath.

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