Pegboard Frame

The frame that thepegboard hangs on is made from standard "two-by" lumber (IV2" thick). I used a sheet of V4" pegboard instead of Vjj" pegboard because it will hold the weight of the bins and shelves better.

FRAME. Start by cutting the top (A), bottom (B), and sides (C) to finished size.

Then cut two reinforcing ribs (D) to finished width and rough length. Also, rip them to finished thicknessilVV').

RABBET. To join the frame, first cut a rabbet on the inside edges of the top (A),bottom (B), and sides (C) to hold the V4" peg-board. To do this, I used a dado blade buried in an auxiliary fence, see Fig. 1.

NOTCH. To join the sides (C) to the top (A) and bottom (B), cut a notch on both ends of each side, see Fig. 2. Cut these notches just wide enough to accept the top and bottom pieces.

After the sides (C) are notched, the next step is to cut two dadoes in the top (A) and bottom (B) to hold the ribs (D),see Fig. 4.

ASSEMBLY . Now the frame is ready to be assembled. To do this, first drill and screw the sides to the top and bottom, see Fig. 3. Then cut the ribs to finished length and screw them in place, see Fig. 4.

PEGBOARD. Once the frame is screwed together, cut the pegboard to fit between the rabbets. Design Note: Cutthe pegboard so the holes are within V^'bf the edge, see Fig. 5. That way the Lrhooks in the storage units won't contact the sides or ribs. And the units won't hang over the edge of the frame.

Finally, rout an Vs" chamfer around the outside edge, see Fig. 6.

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