Bird Feeder

This project gives you the chance to try your hand at installing cedar shingles and copper roofing without having to remodel your house.

Center end pieces on divider and screw in place

END PIECE LAYOUT

Center divider note:

End pieces are cut from '/¡"-thick exterior plywood

#8 x VA" Fh woodscrews

Groove for

Plexiglas panel

Cut grooves parallel to sides of end pieces

Fish scale shingles

Centerline

Stagger joint lines between rows .,

Cut trim board to match roof angle i y

TRIM STRIP

w thick)

Squarecut shingles

(rough)

Epoxy shingles in place one row at a time

Square cut shingles ^r you go. There are just a couple of hints to follow. First, draw layout lines to help you maintain a V4" spacing from the bottom of one course to the bottom of the next, see Fig. 4.

Second, the shingles look best if they're staggered between courses. To do this, simply shift each course

With the centerline drawn, the bottom course (row) of shingles can be glued in place. Note: Because of its gap-filling abilities and strength, I used quick-set (5-minute) epoxy to attach the shingles. Also, I found it easiest to let the end shingles hang over the edge, and then come back and trim

Here again I used cedar, but only for the top, bottom, and ends. For the sides I used V2" exterior grade plywood. And to make it easier to fill the feeder, I beveled the top edges, see drawing below left.

After gluing the center divider together, the next step is to drill a centered hole for the support pipe, see Fig. l.Theonlyproblemisthedrillbit isn't long enough to go all the way through. So the hole has to be drilled from both ends. To do this, I set up a fence and stopblock on the drillpress.

divider installation. After the holes have been drilled, the divider can be screwed to the base. Just be sure the divider is positioned square on the base and the holes in the divider and base align, see Figs. 2 and 2a.

end pieces. After attaching the divider to the base, work can begin on the end pieces. I started by cutting a plywood blank for each end piece (E), see detail 'a' in drawing above. Then I laid out the shape and cut it to size on the band saw (or you could use a sabre saw). But before the end pieces can be attached to the divider, there are a couple of things to do.

First, two shallow grooves are cut cn the inside face of each end piece, see drawing above and Fig. 3. These grooves will be used to hold the Vs"-thick Plexiglas panels that create each food compartment.

Second, to hold the panels at the correct height for the seed to flow out, I glued l"-long spacers at the bottom of each groove, see Fig. 3b.

Once the spacers are in, center the end pieces (E) on the base (A) and screw them in place.

shingles. After attaching the end pieces, I added the shingles. I used two different styles of cedar doll house shingles for this project. The lower section has typical square-cut shingles. But I wanted something different for the gable area, so here I used fish scale (half-round) shingles, refer to Fig. 5. (For sources, see page 35.)

Since the sides of the feeder are angled, I couldn't use the edge of the sides as a vertical reference point to start the shingles. So I decided to lay the shingles working outward from a centerline drawn on the end.

them flush with a utility knife, see photo in margin at right.

With the first course complete, you can lay an overlapping second course. Work your way up the side one course at a time, overlapping each course as halfashingle'swidthto the left orright 4 As each row is of the course immediately below it. applied, use a trim strips. Finally, to cover the utility knife to exposed edges of the sides, I attached trim the over-

1/4ll-thick trim strips (F), using a hanging shingle water-resistant glue, see Fig. 5. flush.

copper

Before starting work on the copper roofs of the feeder, there are a few things that need to be done.

First, to create the outer wall of the food compartments, I cut a couple pieces of Plexiglas to fit in the grooves in the end pieces, see drawing at right and detail V.

seed stop. Next, to prevent birdseed from spilling out, I added a seed stop (G) to each side. To make these stops, I rounded over one edge of an oversize blank of ^"-thick cedar. Then I ripped the blank to a finished width (height) of 3A", see detail 'b'. Finally, cut the seed stops to fit between theends (E) of the feeder (mine were 10V2"-long) and glue them in place, see drawing at right and detail 'b'.

perches.The last pieces to add to the base are the perches (H). These 1W-wide pieces are made the same way as the seed stops. Then they're trimmed to match the length of the base (12") and glued and nailed in place with brass escutcheon pins, see drawing and detail 'b' at right.

lower roofs. The copper covered roof panels are one of the most eyecatching features of this feeder. I started with the lower roof panels (I), see drawing above.These are just two V2" plywood pieces cut to a finished size of 5" x 14"witharoundoverrout-

7" brass escutcheon pin —-x

7" brass escutcheon pin

SEED STOP'

Vs" thick m Plexiglas \\

7" brass escutcheon pin

PERCH

PERCH

SEED STOP

LOWER ROOF PANEL

V2" roundover applying two coats to both surfaces. I wrapped the copper around the roof starting at the top edge and tacking the foil in place with copper tacks, see Figs. 7 and 7a. Then, trim any excess and fold over the ends, see Fig. 7b.

To make the "seams," lightly press the copper into the kerfs with a dowel, ed on one edge, see detail 'a'. Then to create the look of "seams" in the roof, I cut six evenly-spaced kerfs in the top side of each piece, see Figs. 6 and 6a.

Next, I used a pair of scissors to trim the copper foil W longer (141/4") than the roof panels. To attach the foil to the roof, I used a spray adhesive,

LOWER ROOF TRIM

-Auxiliary fence

NOTE:

Plane or resaw stock for roof trim to V4" thick

LOWER ROOF PANEL

1" brass--' escutcheon pin

A A dowel is used for forming the "seams" on the roof pieces.

LOWER ROOF TRIM

LOWER

ROOF

PANEL

Fold over—-copper ends

LOWER ROOF TRIM I

Position trim flush with bottom face of panel

see photo tip in margin on page 26.

lower roof trim. To complete the panels, I added lower roof trim (J), see Fig. 8.1 laid out and cut these pieces from VV'-thick cedar. Then they're attached to the panels with epoxy and escutcheon pins.

Once the lower panels are complete, they're centered over the ends of the feeder and nailed in place.

upper roof. like the lower roof, the upper roof is made up of two plywood panels. But this time, these pieces are glued together to form an L- A shaped assembly. To do this, g|| I started by cutting the upper roof panels (K) to finished size (5%11 x 13") with a 45°bevel on the top edge, see drawing and detail 'b' at right. Then I routed a roundover along the other edge.

Note: The outer kerfs on the upper panels are spaced slightly different than those on the lower panels, see detail 'a'. Once the kerfs are cut, the two sections can be glued together.

copper. As with the lower roof, trim the copper so that if s 1/4" longer (13W0 than the upper roof panels. After applying the spray adhesive, I wrapped the upper roof, starting at the peak on the underside of the roof. Wrap the first sheet of copper around one side until it overlaps the peak, see Fig. 9a. Then, use a second piece to wrap the opposite side of the roof. Now tack the edge of the copper in place, see Fig. 9. Finally, use a dowel to press the decorative kerfs into the copper.

upper roof trim. The next step is to attach the upper roof trim (L), see Fig. 10. These pieces are constructed the same as those on the lower roofs except one end of each is mitered, see Fig. 10a. Then they're nailed and epox-ied to the ends of the roof.

roof cap. To cover the tacks, i made a roof cap (M). It's a single 3/4"-thick piece cut in an L-shape, see Fig. 10.

To do this, first use a table saw and dado blade to make a 5/8M-wide by deep rabbet on one edge of an oversized blank, see Fig. 10b. Then using a combination blade, rip the roof cap free, see Fig. 10c. Now cut it to match the length of the roof ridge (13") and epoxy it in place.

ROOF CAP

UPPER ROOFTRIM

LOWER ROOF

UPPER ROOF

1 " brass escutcheon pins

NOTE: Upper roof kerfs spaced IV2" from ends and 2" apart on center

UPPER ROOF TRIM

NOTE: Copper sheets overlap roof ridge

Drive copper.// tacks through-'' top layer of copper at peak of roof

NOTE: Trim copper sheets slightly longer than roof, then fold ends over

ROOF CAP

UPPER ROOF TRIM

Blank for roof cap

Cut roof cap from blank

Blank for roof cap

Install roof trim first, then cut roof cap to fit between them

UPPER _ ROOF S TRIM V

1 " brass escutcheon pins-

Woodsmith

roof block

#10 x V Fh woodscrew

Center Divider

Washer

Locking pin

galvanized pipe

Second pin hole

Remove copper roof block

Insert pin"~~~~~-to hold feeder in place

■Flat washer

Pin-s Drill hole through pipe

Base of feeder

Upper roof reposition the pin and drop the feed- short, pressure-treated post I mounter down to refill it with birdseed. ed the post in a hole with ready-mix To mount the pole, I screwed a sec- concrete, and then screwed the pole ond pipe flange onto the end of a into the flange, see drawing. BS

24" x48" - V2" Exterior Plywood_

To refill this bird feeder, you don't remove the roof, as you might expect Instead, the upper roof is mounted to the top of a support pipe that passes through the hole in the base of the feeder. When it's time to add more birdseed, all you have to do is drop the base of the feeder.

roof block. To attach the upper roof to the end of the pole, I made a roof block (N). This is just two 3/4"-thick pieces of cedar glued together and beveled on the edges to fit under the roof, see detail 'b'.

Then I screwed a pipe flange to the bottom of the roof block. This flange allows the roof to be screwed to the threaded end of the support pole.

Before attaching the roof block underneath the roof, I removed a portion of the copper foil with a utility knife, see detail 'b'. Then I glued the block to the roof with epoxy, making sure that the block was centered.

support pole.To assemble the feeder, simply slip a piece of pipe through the hole in the base of the feeder. (I used a 6'-long, 3A" I.D. galvanized pipe.) Then screw the pipe into the flange on the upper roof. Note: Ask to have the pipe threaded at both ends when you purchase it

The feeder itself is held up with a washer and removable locking pin inserted through a hole drilled in the pipe. To locate the position for drilling the hole, hold the feeder up against the roof, see detail 'a'. A second hole drilled below the first allows you to

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