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This jewelry cabinet is constructed in two parts. A storage case containing nine drawers sits upon a base with cabriole legs. I built the case first, then sized the base to fit.

back panel. I started with the back (A) of the case, see exploded view. This is a piece of 3/4"-thick plywood cut to size and edged with 3/4" x 3/4" solid wood case edging (B) and then trimmed flush, see detail *b\

Then I cut two W-wide grooves on the inside face of the panel to hold the side panels, see detail 'a'.

side panels. With the back panel complete, I cut two plywood sides (C). But before edging the sides, I cut a series of dadoes on the inside edges. These '/t" x dadoes will hold the drawer guides. In order for the drawers to slide in and out without binding, each pair of guides must line up exacdy when the case is assembled.

To evenly space the dadoes for the guides, I used an indexing jig. But first I started by cutting the top dado on each side ln/i6n from the end, see Fig. 1. Then I added a W indexing pin to an auxiliary fence and attached the

Cut tenon to fit groove in back b. EDGING DETAIL

Trim edging flush with plywood



Chamfer over the indexing pin. Now you can cut the rest of the dadoes just like you would cut dentil molding, see Fig. 2 (or refer to the dentil molding jig on page 18).

fence to my miter gauge.

After adjusting the fence so the indexing pin is l13/i6M from the blade, place the side panel against the fence so that the first dado fits

Aux. fence


Top groove

Index pin

Stop block

To cut remaining dadoes, use / indexing jig, (see dentil molding jig,/ page 18) /

Indexing jig--


Cut first dado 7%' from top end


Cuttongueto fit grooves in back panel >


Blank for guidesr^t

Dado blade buried in auxiliary fence


Use push block to rip guides , from blank /


#8x1 Vi ^ Fh woodscrew

NOTE: Screw into hardwood edging, when possible

back ihoufder of panel edging side to side

Squaring block


Use block to keep sides square to back during assembly



#8x V/2" Fh woodscrew



NOTE: Attach edging to panels before routing profile




V4" shoulder


Clamp pads protect face of panel


Glue and clamp outer panels in place







Vs" shoulder

With the dadoes cut, I added case edging (B) to the front edges of the side panels, see exploded view. Then on each back edge, I cut a tongue that fit snug in the grooves already cut in the back panel, see Fig. 3.

drawer guides. Before assembling the sides and back, I added drawer guides (D) to the dadoes in the sides, see detail 'c' on page 8. These guides are simply thin strips of wood that support and guide the drawers.

To make the guides, I planed down a blank to 9Ae" thick, cut it to length, and then ripped V^'-wide strips, see Fig. 4. Use a push block to keep the guides from getting pinched between the saw blade and the fence.

The guides are glued into the dadoes. Then using a sanding block, I sanded a slight chamfer on the edges of the guides to help the drawers operate smoothly, see detail 'c\

side & back assembly. With theguides in place, the sides and back panels can be glued together, see exploded view above right. Note: To keep the side panels square to the back when gluing them up, I used a squaring block.

inner panels. The top and bottom panels are both made up of an inner and outer layer of edged plywood, see exploded view.

The inner panels (E) are made of 3/4m plywood and edged on all four sides with 3/4"-wide inner panel edging (F, G), see exploded view. This edging is mitered at the corners and glued in place. Then a cove is routed on one side, see Fig. 5.

Attach the inner panels to the case with screws, making sure to screw into the solid wood edging on the sides and back, see details 'a' and 'b'.

outer panels. The outer panels (H) are built the same as the inner panels, with two exceptions. The outer panel edging (I, J) is 13A" wide, see Fig. 6. The wider edging not only looks better, but it will hold screws more securely when the case is attached to the base.

Another difference is that I routed a Vs" roundover on the outside edges and then a V2* roundover on the inside edges, see Figs. 6a and 6b. Then the outer panels are simply glued in place, see Figs. 7 and 7a.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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