With the cabinet case completed, I began making the set of nine drawers that fit inside. Since all the drawers are the same size, you can quickly build them in an assembly line fashion.
To start with, I cut all the drawer fronts (K), backs (L), and sides (M) to size from ^"-thick stock, see Fig. 8. Note: The drawers are sized to allow for a Vie" clearance gap around each drawer. (Mine were 2" tall and 77/8M wide.)
Rabbets cut on each end of the front piece hold the sides and also serve as drawer stops, see Fig. 8a. And each side piece receives a rabbet at one end to hold a back piece, see Fig. 8b. Then, to allow the drawers to ride on the drawer guides, cut a centered groove along the length of each side piece, see Fig. 8c.
After cutting the rabbets and side grooves, I added an W-wide groove for a drawer bottom to all the drawer pieces, see Fig. 8c. Now dry assemble the drawers and cut the bottoms (N) to size from W-thick hardboard. Then glue and clamp the drawers (including the bottoms) together.
Once the glue had dried, I added a few finishing touches to the drawers. First, I routed a Vs" chamfer around the inside to soften the sharp edges, see Fig. 9. Then using a chisel, I created a "bird's mouth" opening at the end of the grooves to make it easier to insert the drawers onto the drawer guides, see Fig. 10.
doors. With the drawers completed, the case is ready for the doors, refer to Fig. 14. Each door is made up note: Drawers are built from V2"-thick stock hardboard drawer side
CROSS V4 SECTION
Bird's mouth opening \
Pare away material to create bird's mouth opening
Custom Foam Inserts. I made foam inserts with fabric. Press the fabric into the keifs with far rings by cutting kerfs in blocks of rigid insu- a straightedge and tape it in place. Then care-lotion (blueboard). Then I covered the bbcks fully slip the insert into the drawer.
Liners, i lined some of the drawers withvel' vet-covered pieces ofposterboard. Mount the fabric with tape and spray adhesive.
Woodsmith of two pieces of plywood joined together in an L-shape. This way, the doors swing open allowing complete access to necklaces and other jewelry hanging from the sides of the case.
I started on the doors by cutting side panels (0) and front panels (P) to finished size, see Fig. ll.Then to hide the edges, I cut and glued door edging (Q) to the panels.
The front panels are edged on all four sides. Butthe side panels are only edged on three. Then the side panels are glued to the front panels. I used a square to help glue them together in a perfect right angle, see Fig 11a.
Then to complete the doors, I drew layout lines and used a hand-held router to rout Vs" stopped chamfers on the outside corners, see Fig. 12.
hanging doors. Finally, I completed the case of the jewelry cabinet by hanging the doors with 2" butt hinges, see Fig. 13. These are mortised into the case back but are simply screwed to the inside face of the doors.
When hung correctly, the doors should be centered top to bottom, and the sides should end up flush with the molded edging on the top and bottom of the case.
magnetic catch rails. To keep the doors closed, I used magnetic catches. These catches are installed in a pair of rails (R)madeoutof3/4"-thick stock, see Fig. 14. The rails fit between the side panels of the case. I sized mine to create a Vie" gap between the rails and the drawers 64" inmycase).Beforegluingtheminplace,
I drilled two1 Wholes for the catches.
I used C-clamps to install the catches in the holes, see Fig. 14a. Then I installed the catch plates, aligning them with the catches, see
Fig. 14b. To adjust the doors in or out, I used a trick with O-rings as spacers under the catch plates, see Fig. 14b. For more on this, see Shop Notes on page 19.
first: Glue edging to door front and side panels second: With edging in place, glue side panel to front panel
When gluing l door, check assembly with square , door side panel door front panel door edging
Va" chamfer door /
O-ring as spacer under catch plate
W gap between drawer and rail
Catch plate^S Magnetic catch shop tip: Use C-clamp to press door catches in place
All apron pieces cut from 3A"-thick stock
NOTE: Curve on apron should match legs
Z-shaped table -top fastener
#8x Vs" Rh wood-screw
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