I Lay out marks to show the tapered roundover on the front corner. Connect the marks by drawing lines up and down the leg.
Now with a file and some sandpaper, round over the front edge of the leg, following the layout lines that were just drawn.
0% The back edge also gets a mm Mm tapered roundover— though not as much as the front. Also lightly sand both side edges of the leg.
#} Between the corner post and Jm%9 the beginning of the knee, there may be a small ridge. This can be carefully pared away with a chisel.
#%yi Set the aprons in place and Jm*W trace the front edges. Remove the aprons and round over the hard edge to the line with a chisel.
4% jC Finally, sand the leg to 220 JmI «J* grit. If applying a liquid stain, you might want to use a wood conditioner before staining, see page 30.
If you want to build the projects in this issue without making the cabriole legs, we designed the projects so you can buy factory-made legs.
Of course, the design of these legs isn't exactly like ours. The critical difference is that the transition blocks are abit different This means you'll need to make some adjust ments in the profiles of the aprons that connect the legs so the transition between the two is smooth.
Which brings up another difference. With factory-made legs, you need to drill the mortises with the leg already shaped. But the curves get in the way, so you'll have to use a special spacer block, see page 18.
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