Using a circular saw to make an accurate square or mitered crosscut can be a real challenge. But recently, William Hale, of DeSoto, Illinois, sent us an idea for a jig that converts a circular saw into a sliding miter saw, see photo.
The jig consists of a long carriage that guides the saw through the cut. A fence and plywood table allow the carriage to be adjusted to different angles for miter cuts.
carriage. Since the carriage is the heart of the jig, if s built first To guide the saw, make a pair of rails from two 3/4M-thick pieces of maple. Then to support the saw in the carriage, glue 2V2"-wide pieces of V^'-thick hard-board to the bottom of each rail, see the drawing below.
The rails are connected at both ends by a couple of spacer blocks screwed to the top of the rails. The length of these blocks depends on the width of your saw base. I cut mine so the saw slides easily between the rails with minimal side-to-side play.
Then on one end of the bottom of the rails, add a l5/s"-thick support block. It lifts the carriage so you can slide a workpiece underneath. (I also cut a notch in the support block so you can lock the carriage at any angle with a clamp.)
fence & table. With the carriage built you're ready to make the fence. The fence is made from two pieces of 3/4,L thick stock glued together. To keep the carriage level, if s cut to the same height (1%") as the support block.
The table is a 3/4"-thick piece of ply wood with an arc cut on one edge, see detail 'a'. Simply glue and screw the fence to the table.
pivot. A bolt attaches the carriage to the fence and allows it to pivot to any angle. To determine the pivot point position the carriage so the saw blade is centered on the table and fence. Then, drill a W'-dia. hole through one of the carriage rails and the fence. A hex-head bolt, washers, and a nut can be used to hold the carriage in place while using the jig. E3
#8 x VA" Fh woodscrew
#8 x 2V2" Fh woodscrew
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