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Cut the mortises and tenons in the top braces, legs, and feet. The top braces, legs, and feet form two frames which support the benchtop, as shown in the Side View and the Leg Assembly Layout. Tenons on the ends of the legs fit mortises in the feet and top braces. Cut the 1-inch-square, l'A-inch-deep mortises first, then cut the tenons to fit them. Refer to Chapter 5 for instructions on how to make mortise-and-tenon joints.

3 Chamfer the ends of the top braces and feet. As shown in the Side View and the Leg Assembly Layout, the top corners of the feet and the bottom corners of the top braces are chamfered. Cut these chamfers on a table saw or a band saw.

4 Drill pilot holes in the top braces. The benchtop is secured to the leg assemblies with lag screws. Drill 7/i6-inch-diameter pilot holes for these screws through the top braces, as shown in the Leg Assembly Layout. The precise location of these screws is not critical, but there should be at least three of them in each brace, and they should be evenly spaced along the length.

> Assemble the legs, top braces, and feet. Dry assemble (without glue) the legs, top braces, and feet to be sure the mortise-and-tenon joints fit properly When you're satisfied they do, finish sand the parts. Reassemble the parts with glue, let the glue dry, then sand all the surfaces clean and flush.

6 Cut the rabbets and dadoes in the plywood case parts. The cabinet case is a large plywood box held together with simple rabbets, dadoes, and grooves. Cut these joints:

■ 3A-inch-wide, 3/8-inch-deep rabbets in the top and bottom edges of the case sides, as shown in the Case Side Layout, to hold the case top and bottom

■ 3/4-inch-wide, Vs-inch-deep dado in the case sides to hold the case shelf

■ 3A-inch-wide, Vs-inch-deep dadoes in the case top, bottom, and fixed shelf, as shown in the Case Layout, to hold the drawer dividers and cupboard divider

■ ^-inch-wide, 'A-inch-deep dadoes in the case sides to hold the drawer guides

■ 'A-inch-wide, A-inch-deep grooves in the drawer dividers, as shown in the Drawer Divider Layout, to hold the drawer guides

Bottom

Case Joinery Detail

Case Side Layout (top is similar)

■ Vs-inch-wlde, 3/s-inch-deep grooves near the back edges of the case sides, top, and bottom, as shown in the Case Joinery Detail, to hold the case back

■ Vs-inch-wide, Vs-inch-deep rabbets in the edges of the case back to fit the grooves in the case sides, top, and bottom

7 Drill holes in the case sides and cupboard divider. The adjustable shelves rest on support pins. These pins fit into holes inside the case. Drill V^inch-diameter, 72-inch-deep holes in the case sides, as shown in the Case Side Layout, and 'A-inch-diameter holes through the cupboard divider, as shown in the Cupboard Divider Layout.

8 Attach the drawer guides to the sides and dividers. The drawers slide in and out of the case on drawer guides — hardwood strips inlaid in the plywood. Sand the drawer guides smooth, then glue them in the 'A-inch-wide dadoes and grooves in the case sides and drawer dividers.

9 Assemble the case. Finish sand all the plywood parts you've made so far. Assemble the fixed shelf, drawer dividers, and cupboard divider with glue and #8 x l'A-inch flathead wood screws. Countersink the heads of the screws flush with the surface of the wood. Let the glue set.

Lay the back, rear-side down, on a work surface. Place the divider assembly on top of it. Attach the case sides, top, and bottom to the back and divider assembly with glue and screws. Counterbore and countersink the screws, then cover the screw heads with plugs. Let the glue dry and sand all joints and plugs flush with the plywood surface. Be careful not to sand through the veneer.

10 Assemble the workbench. Finish sand the benchtop. Attach the case to the leg assemblies, driving #12 x 2-inch flathead wood screws through the case from the inside and into the legs. Use three screws for each leg, and space them evenly along the length of the leg. Fasten the benchtop to the leg assemblies by driving lag screws up through the top braces and into the underside of the benchtop.

11 Cut the mortises and tenons in the door rails and stiles. The rails and stiles on the frame-

10-1 Using a large piloted

Forstner bit, drill 1 Vs-inch-diameter, V2-inch-deep holes in the door stiles to house the hinge bodies. These drill bits are available from most mail-order woodworking suppliers or any hardware dealer that sells European-style cabinet hinges.

and-panel doors are joined with haunched mortises and tenons. Cut lA-inch-wide, Vs-inch-deep grooves in the inside edges of all the door rails and stiles, as shown in the Door Frame Joinery Detail. Then cut 'A-inch-wide, 1 'A-inch-long, 1'A-inch-deep mortises near both ends of each stile. Cut 1A-inch-thick, l'A-inch-long tenons in the ends of the rails, then make a notch or "haunch" in the outer corner of each tenon to fit the mortise and groove in the stile. See page 75 for complete instructions on how to make a haunched mortise-and-tenon joint.

12 Assemble the doors. Finish sand the door parts, then assemble the rails and stiles with glue. As you fit the rails and stiles together, slide the panels into the grooves. However, don't glue the panels in place. Let them float in the grooves.

13 Hang the doors. The doors on the workbench swing on self-closing European-style hinges. These cabinet hinges offer several advantages over traditional butt hinges. They are much easier to install; you don't have to cut hinge mortises. They allow you to adjust the positions of the doors slightly even after you hang them. And they keep the doors closed without having to use an additional catch.

Mark the locations of the hinges on the case and door frames. Drill 1 Vs-inch-diameter holes in the door frame stiles to mount the body of each hinge. Attach the hinges to the case and doors with screws, then adjust the position of the doors to open and shut without binding. The doors should completely cover the front edges of the case bottom and case shelf, and the outside edges of the end doors should be flush with the case sides. (See Figures 10-1 and 10-2.)

Shut the door and mark the location of the door pulls. Drill pilot holes in the stiles and install the pulls.

14 Cut the drawer joinery. Like the case, the drawers are assembled with simple rabbets, dadoes, and grooves. Cut these joints:

■ 9/i6-inch-wide, V4-inch-deep grooves in the outside faces of the drawer sides to fit the drawer guides

■ Vi-inch-wide, 'A-inch-deep rabbets in the inside front ends of the drawer sides to hold the drawer fronts

■ '/¿-inch-wide, Winch-deep dadoes in the inside faces of the drawer sides, near the back ends, to hold the drawer backs

■ 'A-inch-wide, 1A-inch-deep grooves in the inside faces of the drawer fronts, backs, and sides, near the bottom edges, to hold the drawer bottoms

10-1 Using a large piloted

Forstner bit, drill 1 Vs-inch-diameter, V2-inch-deep holes in the door stiles to house the hinge bodies. These drill bits are available from most mail-order woodworking suppliers or any hardware dealer that sells European-style cabinet hinges.

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Door Frame Cupboard

Joinery Detail Divider Layout

10-2 Use a template and a spring-

loaded Vix bit to locate and bore the pilot holes for the screws that will hold the hinges to the case. (The Vix bit automatically centers small pilot holes inside the larger holes in the template.) Both the template and the bit are available from the same suppliers that offer the hinges.

15 Assemble and fit the drawers. Finish sand the parts of the drawers. Glue the sides, fronts, and backs together. Slide the bottoms into place as you assemble the other parts, but do not glue them in their grooves. Let them float. When the glue dries, reinforce the rabbet joints that hold the sides to the fronts with 1-inch brads. Sand all joints clean and flush.

Test the fit of the drawers in the case. The grooves in the sides should fit smoothly over the drawer guides, and the drawers should slide in and out of the case without binding. If a drawer sticks, inspect it carefully to determine which parts are rubbing. Plane a little stock off the offending part of the drawer and try again. Continue until all the drawers fit properly.

If you have trouble deciding which drawer part is binding inside the case, lightly rub some chalk on the surfaces of the assembled drawer. Slide the drawer into place, then pull it out again. Inspect the inside of the case for chalk — this will tell you which part of the drawer is rubbing and where.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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