Jointer Adjustments

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if you do everything right and still don't get a straight, square edge or perfectly flat surface, the cause of your frustration might simply be a jointer that needs adjustment.

PARALLEL TABLES. When you can't get a perfectly straight edge, it could be that the infeed and outfeed tables aren't in die same parallel plane. Check for this by leveling the tables and then placing a long straightedge across them (upper right drawing). If the straightedge shows a gap in the middle or at the ends, you'll likely get a convex or concave edge, respectively. The solution might be as simple as snugging up the table adjusting screws. But your best bet is to check your owners manual for advice on this.

CHECK THE FENCE. Your jointed edge isn't square? First, check the fence. Most have 90° stops, but this isn't a guarantee. So check the fence with a reliable square just to be sure.

THE KNIVES. If you still can't get a square edge, the cause might be that the knives are not installed correctly. All the knives should be at the same height and perfecdy parallel to the tables (see middle drawing at right). A knife that's a litde high on one side of the table will joint a beveled edge. If this is the case, just reset the knives.

Shop Tip: Shop-Made Pushblock

One of the challenges to face jointing is applying firm, steady downward pressure while at the same time pushing the board forward across the knives. The simple shop-made push block, shown at right, helps you do this without putting your finger anywhere near the cutterhead.

As you can see at right, a hard-board cleat across the back hooks over the end of die workpiece to provide the forward push. And the wide face and canted handle allows you to bear down to keep it flat on the table.

Iikii lil iI.IjIiTiTiIj

At top of arc, edge of knife should barely nick the straightedge

FIRST: Place long straightedge across level tables

SECOND: Check gaps at center and ends of

Parallel Tables. To joint a straight edge, the two tables need to be parallel. Place a long straightedge across the tables to find a potential problem.

Parallel Knives. You can use a straightedge to check the height of the knives across the width of the outfeed table. For a square cut all the knives should be at the same height and perfectly parallel to the surface of the table.

THE OUTFEED TABLE. If the jointer takes a slightly deeper bite at the end of the cut (called snipe) or the knives stop cutting halfway through a pass, the outfeed table is too low or too high. It should be set flush with the topmost arc of the knives (lower right drawing). Too high and you get snipe, too low and you get a "climb" cut. A straightedge is all you need to find the problem, fil

Gaps under straightedge indicate tables are not parallel

Outfeed table //I^A Infeed table

Out feed Height.

You can use a straightedge to check the height of the outfeed table. At the top of its arc the knife should make very light contact.

-thick dividers are dadoed to hold Vi " subdivides

Infeed Devider For Case

Sides, front, and back are dadoed to hold dividers and bottom

Drawer sides, front, and back are Vi" plywood

Va" hardboard drawer slides

Sides are rabbeted to hold bottom

Bed Base With Drawers Plans

Grooves in sides hold drawer

Watchmaker's Cases

Drawer sides, front, and back are Vi" plywood

Va" hardboard drawer slides

Sides are rabbeted to hold bottom small shop solutions

5 options for


Drawer Organizer

«1 To sort screws, nails, nuts, and bolts, the answer may be a handy drawer organizer like the one at right. Not only will this hold a lot of larger parts, but you can easily pull it out of the drawer and take it to the project. That beats running back and forth for the items you need.

1 used some hardwood scraps for the sides of the box. 1 dadoed the sides to receive three V dividers. I also put dadoes in the front and back of the dividers to hold \" hard-board sub-dividers. A groove along die length of the pieces holds the hardboard bottom. You can adjust the size of this organizer to fit just about any available drawer.

Grooves in sides hold drawer


Tired of looking for those small parts?

Here are a few ideas to help you keep things organized.

Watchmaker's Cases

To keep the cases organized, I built the simple drawers shown at left. Each drawer is sized to hold a dozen cases. As you can see in the drawing above, the sides of the box have a series of shallow grooves to hold hardboard slides mounted on the drawers. The box is assembled with dado joints and glue.

Sides, front, and back are dadoed to hold dividers and bottom

When it comes to organizing small bits of hardware, it's tough to beat watchmaker's cases. These small aluminum containers have glass lids, so you can see the contents at a glance. Best of all, they're very inexpensive, so you can sort out an entire junk drawer without breaking the bank. See sources on page 49.

-thick dividers are dadoed to hold Vi " subdivides

H I like the idea of storage bottom are just W plywood. I containers 1 can easily pick up rabbeted the front to hold the and take to the project I'm work- hardboard sides and assembled ing on. It's even better when the pieces with glue, those containers have their own rack to keep them off my workbench. That's why these easy-to-build bins are so handy.

The storage rack is just i/4-

a couple of rows of wall- hardboard mounted cleats with a lip on the front edge to hold the bins in place. To remove a bin, you just lift it out.

Buildi ng the bins is easy, too. The front, back, and

Bin rests on cleat below

Bottom edge is rabbeted

Shelves are attached to the case with screws

Another version of portable storage, shown at left, adds a handy feature. The convenient handle allows me to grab two bins, back-to-back, and carry them wherever I need to go.

Once again, the construction is very straightforward. The sides are W-thick stock, rabbeted on the edges to hold a hardboard front and back. The bottom is also hardboard and fits into dadoes cut in the sides.

The storage rack is simply a case with angled, L-shaped, shelves. The shelves are held in place with screws in the sides.

V2" thick sides are rabbeted to hold front and __ back

Scalable Storage

■ The nice thing about the containers shown at right is you can use the same basic design but size them to hold just about anything. For instance, 1 made a few to hold screws and hardware, and some larger ones to hold the wrenches, chucks, sanding supplies, and other tools that I use when working on the lathe.

All you need to build these handy containers is some wood, hardboard, and glue. They're assembled with simple dado joints. For the smaller sizes, you may want to build the stackable cases to hold four containers. BS

V4" dado in side 1 ieces hold front and back

Build a case to hold several containers

Wood smith www. Wo od smith,com

Portable Storage

The first step in finishing brass is to remove the lacquer coating from the hardware.

Steel wool and synthetic pads make quick work of removing any stubborn coatings.

quick & easy steps for

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