Trimming Table Tops

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If you build the kitchen table and stools on page 22, you'll often find it a challenge to square up the tops. The difficulty comes in cutting the uneven ends of the table. The top is often too large to make the cut on your table saw. But it's easy to do if you clamp the edge guide to the top and use other side to trim it with a circular saw (left photo below).

It can be difficult to get a clean cut using a circular saw. But I've found that if I put the top face down on a sheet of rigid foam insulation, as shown in the photo at left, you can eliminate a lot of chipout.

side of the fence as a guide for my circular saw. Just use the same technique, only trim away the waste for die reference edge with your circular saw instead of the router (Fig. 2).

ROUT THI DADOES. To make the dadoes wide enough to accept the dividers, you'll need to rout them in two passes. To do this, clamp the cutting guide to the sides in position to make the far cut first (detail 'a'). After completing the first pass, move the cutting guide to the left, clamp it in position on the side panels, then make the second pass (detail 'b' above). Your dado will be located in the same place on bodi panels.

M base against fence Fence ■ L^i^nrwL ,.7 W plyWOOd)



Straight bit Start with oversized base


Support the table top face down on a piece of foam insulation and use a cutting guide to cleanly trim the ends with your circular saw.

Make a pass on one side of the fence with your router to make an accurate cutting guide.

Pass the circular saw on the other side of the fence to trim away waste for the saw guide.

workpiece end-tor-end and make a second pass. Repeat this process on the opposite edge so you'll have a V groove centered on both edges.

CUT AWAY THE MOLDING. After making the grooves, all you need to do is trim the molding strips from the workpiece (Fig. 3). To do this, simply raise the blade above the workpiece. Then set the fence to trim the '4" pieces of molding from the edge of the workpiece and cut them free.

Gloss Stop

When you get ready to install the glass panels in the display cabinet on page 32, you'll need some small pieces of quarter-round stop to hold the glass in place. Tile problem is it's often impossible to find molding small enough to do the job. So 1 made my own quarter-round glass stop molding. It only takes a few simple steps to make it just the size you need. The photo at right shows how it looks at the completion of each step of die process.

PREPARE THE BLANK. 1 began by cutting some long, -wide blanks. Then I used a V4" roundover bit to round off all four edges on each of the blanks, as shown in Fig. 1,

Next, center a %"-deep groove along both edges of each blank (Fig. 2). To do diis, set the rip fence V4" from the saw blade and make a pass along the edge. Then rotate the

Drilling Jig for Quick-Connect Fasteners

Now all that's left is to trim away the two pieces of molding from the other side of the workpiece. J ust turn the workpiece over, reset the fence, and cut the pieces away from the blank as before.

Before you install the glass, you'll need to miter the quarter-round strips to length. Then you can secure the glass in position by nailing or gluing the stops in place.

A few steps is all it takes to make your own glass stop molding.

To make it easy to break down the bookcase on page 16,1 used several quick-connect fasteners to attach the shelves. This way, a turn of the cam is all it takes to break it down anytime I might need to move it.

To ma ke it easier to install the connectors, I built a simple drilling jig that slips over the end of the shelf. It makes it easy to posi tion and drill the holes for the hardware.

The drilling jig is built of 34" plywood. And the pieces of the jig are glued and screwed together. A side piece on the jig acts as a stop to help you locate the connector holes in the edge of the shelf,

I used a 15mm Forstner bit to make two holes in the top and bottom of the jig. They will help you position the holes for installing the cam part of the connector.

Next, I d rilled two holes in the end of the jig. These holes are placed to help you drill the horizontal holes in the end of the shelf to insert the pin component of the connector.

Finally, I made a 3/4" spacer block to insert inside the jig to use for locating the smaller shelf. OS

NOTE: All the parts are made of 3A" plywood

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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