store wood. But you might have a problem if the attic is a lot drier than your shop. When you take the wood down and start to use it, it can expand as it adjusts to the extra moisture in its new, more humid environment.
This is much like the problem of bringing wood home from the lumber yard and starting to work with it right away. Sometimes conditions in the lumber yard are very different from your shop. No matter where you get your lumber, it's always best to let it adjust to the conditions of your shop for several days before working with it.
lumber racks. If you're going to build a wall rack that stores lumber horizontally, or stack lumber on blocks on the floor, be sure the boards are well-supported along their length. To prevent boards from distorting from the weight of wood piled on top. I'd recommend that you space brackets or supports no more than 32" apart.
storage boxes. For short pieces of wood, you might try storing them on end in a box. This takes up less space and you can tell at a glance how long the individual pieces are. Then you won't have to sort through the pile to find one the right length.
storing plywood. Plywood usually gets stacked on edge — it takes up a lot less space that way. I try to make it stand up as close to vertical as possible (and off the floor, too). Too much lean can bend iL especially if other sheets are stacked with it. And if it's left that way long enough, it may not flatten out again.
Of course, you can store plywood flat, but it does take up more space. To avoid distortion, be sure it's well-supported.
mark sizes. One other suggestion. I make a point of writing the type and size on the end grain of each piece of wood and plywood. This saves a lot of time when searching for a piece to fit a particular need.
■ Some of the more complicated projects I build have a lot of assembly that must be done at one time. But when I use yellow woodworkers' glue, it sets up before I can get all the parts together. Is there a slmver setting glue that has the strength of yellow glue?
Melvin Williams Mishawaka, Indiana There are a couple of glues you can use in this situation. Whenever we have problems getting a complicated glue job together quickly, we usually switch from yellow woodworkers'glue (such asTitebond or Elmer's Carpenters' glue) to a white all-purpose glue (such as Elmer's Glue-All).
Another option would be to use a hide glue or a powdered plastic (urea-formaldehyde) resin glue. Both of these glues set up slower than yellow glue and are just as strong. (Hide glue and plastic resin glue are available at most hardware stores.)
Garrett Wade (161 Ave. of the Americas, New York, NY 10012; 800-221-2942) sells a "Slo-Set" glue that gives you more working time (20 to 30 minutes), but still achieves 75% of its strength after clamping for 30 minutes.
dilute glue. The other thing you can do is thin Titebond yellow glue with about 5% water (one part water to twenty parts glue), explained Dennis Doyle
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