An inset escutcheon fits into a keyhole-shaped recess. (See photo, page 71.)_
Install an inset escutcheon before cutting the lock mortises. Begin by drilling a hole to accept the escutcheon's circular head. Use a brad-point bit to prevent tearout, and drill only to the same depth as the escutcheon.
Next, clamp the escutcheon in place. Then knife the outline of the skirt onto the workpiece. (If the escutcheon is tapered, place ihe smaller side down.) Then, knife the outline of the skirt onto the work-piece. Alternatively, you can transfer the shape using a stopped drill press as shown below.
Chisel out the skirt waste to the same depth as the hole you drilled. Test-fit the escutcheon without pressing it all the way in. When you've got a good fit, mix sanding dust with epoxy and line the hole with the mix. Clamp Ihe escutcheon into its hole using waxed paper between the c lamp and the escutcheon. After the epoxy dries, sand the surface flush.
Using a bit that matches the inside diameter of the escutcheon head, bore a hole through the drawer front or door. You can use the escutcheon as a guide.
Now cut the lock mortises as described in the main text. Finish up by cutting out the rest of the keyhole with a coping saw. —B.E.
Pressing news. Chuck a holt in the drill press and press the escutcheon against carbon paper to lay out the skirt mortise.
When the lock fits well, it's time to lay out and saw the skirt-shaped lower section of the keyhole. If you're going to be attaching a surface-mount escutcheon, use the escutcheon as a pattern for marking the cutout. Otherwise, lay out the skirt by first marking a rectangular keyhole slot that matches the size of the slot in the lock. Then create the skirt shape by drawing two symmetrical lines that flare out about 3° from each side of the slot's top. Use a coping saw to cut out the shape (sec photo, above). Then clean up the walls with a chisel or a file.
Before installing the lock, place it in its mortises and check the key operation. If the lock pin isn't centered in the keyhole, widen the mortises as necessary to adjust the fit. Then you can screw the lock in place.
Cut the lock-bolt mortise. To locate the case mortise that accepts the bolt, close the door or drawer against the case with the bolt extended. Mark the width of the bolt across the edge of the drawer rail or the door stile. On the lock, measure the distance from the face of the bolt to the face of the drawer front or door, and transfer this measurement onto the rail or stile. Now chisel out your mortise.
If your lock comes with a metal "strike" plate, you'll have to mortise the strike plate flush. I use strike plates for locked doors, but generally not for drawers because it's so difficult to maneuver a chisel or a router in a drawer opening. A
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