wash cloths. The rack could even hold wet hats and mittens over a warm-air register, or next to a wood-stove. It'll earn its keep somewhere in any house.
Make the rack out of a strong wood that won't split when you assemble it with screws. I made the one in the photo out of oak. Maple, elm or cherry would also be good choices.
To make the arms, I first cut the taper on the band-saw, then the slots, and finally the Vj-in. radius on the upper corner. I then cut out the pivot supports and bored the holes for the dowels. Be as accurate and consistent as possible when making these parts so the arms will line up in a nice, neat row when you assemble the rack. The last part I cut out was the backboard. After that I eased the exposed edges on all of the parts with a '/»-in. radius round-over bit in the router (available from MLCS Ltd.. P.O. Box 4053 AE. Rvdal, PA 19046, 800-533-9298). A light easing with fine sandpaper would give the rack a crisper appearance.
Before putting it all together, you'll need to go over the arms and pivot assemblies with a sanding block and/or a finely tuned block plane to adjust clearances. You want the arms to move freely without being sloppy. (See AW, #17, page 38 for a discussion of Dimensions, Tolerances, Fit and Feel.)
When everything fits the way you like it, bore and countersink pilot and shank holes for the screws that hold the pivot supports to the backboard, then screw the rack together. You can adjust the way the arms line up in the horizontal position by carefully sanding the ends of the arms where they touch the backboard.
I put a finish on mine, but you could just as well leave it unfinished. A
Fred Mai lack heads the Rodale Press Design Group where he practices uxxxiuvrking, metal wvrking and almost avry other craft ytni can name. Fred's ongoing ¡Mission is for restoring and using antique ¡iedal-jxnwred wooduvrkitig machines.
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