How To Cut 45 Degree Angle Wood

Last Updated on Fri, 06 Sep 2019 | Machine-Cut Joint

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It pays to use a special jig called a mitre saw to cut larger pieces of wood or moulded sections of framing. The workpiece can be held on edge or flat on the bed of the tool. The saw guide, which can be set to any angle, guarantees accurate joints.

2 Trimming the joint

Hold the work on a mitre shooting board and trim each cut end with a sharp bench plane.

MITRED BUTT JOINT

MACHINE CUT Box-frame mitre joint i tongue

Cutting a flat-frame mitre

Adjust the mitre fence on the table saw to the required angle, usually 45 degrees. Holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, so that it does not get drawn backwards by the saw, feed it towards the blade.

Cutting a box-frame mitre

Tilt the saw blade to 45 degrees to cut a bevel across the board. Set the mitre fence at 90 degrees, and feed the work past the blade.

EXTENDING A TABLE-SAW FENCE

The mitre fence on most table saws is comparatively short, but some are pre-drilled so that you can screw on a longer hardwood face to extend the fence. Feeding this wooden fence into the saw blade for the first time cuts it perfectly to length An extended fence not only provides better control, but stops the grain of a workpiece splitting at the back as it is sawn. If you can't fit a permanent extension, sandwich a piece of scrap wood between the fence and the workpiece.

With either method, use both hands to hold the workpiece against the fence, and feed the work quite slowly into the blade. Clamp to the fence any pieces too small to be held with two hands.

A block of wood clamped to the extension serves as a stop for one end of the workpiece when cutting several pieces of wood to the same length.

Cutting a flat-frame mitre

Cutting a box-frame mitre

Tilt the saw blade to 45 degrees to cut a bevel across the board. Set the mitre fence at 90 degrees, and feed the work past the blade.

Flat-frame mitre joint tongue

Table saws or radial-arm saws make mitring simple, even for compound mitres where the angle is in two planes. Reinforcing mitre joints with solid wood or plywood tongues is also straightforward on a machine; cut the tongue slots before gluing machine-made joints. Centre the groove in a flat-frame mitre, but for a box-frame or cabinet, position the tongue towards the inside of the angle to prevent weak short grain.

2 Cutting the slot

Clamp the work in the jig, with the mitred end flush with the base. Set the saw fence to centre the cut on the ends. Hold the jig firmly against the fence while making the cut.

workpiece

Slotting a box-frame mitre

Set the blade to 45 degrees and adjust it to the correct height. To position the mitre accurately over the blade, butt the other end of the workpiece against a wooden block clamped to the extended mitre fence.

workpiece

1 Making a slotting jig

To slot a flat-frame mitre make a cutting jig that will hold the work securely and keep your hands away from the saw blade. Cut an MDF backing panel about 400 x 250mm (16x1 Oin). Glue and screw offcuts of the framing wood to the panel as shown, setting one to the mitre angle. Ensure all screws are clear of the blade. Fix a steadying block to the opposite face of the panel,

Slotting a box-frame mitre

2 Cutting the slot

Clamp the work in the jig, with the mitred end flush with the base. Set the saw fence to centre the cut on the ends. Hold the jig firmly against the fence while making the cut.

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