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Cutout made with _ VA'-dia. Forstner bit

Splines add glue surface to strengthen mitered corners

ASS EM Bit THE BOX. Once you have joined to the sides with a tongue and dado joint as shown in detail 'a.' I started by cutting the dadoes in the sides. The tongue on the back is cut to fit the dadoes.

Next, I cut a groove on all the workpieces to hold the bottom, I set the rip fence and cut all the grooves at one time so that they were spaced identically.

is just a piece of V4" plywood cut to size. I trimmed the front corners of the bottom to make room to insert the splines.

W1HI HACK. If you plan to turn one of the shelves into a wine rack, you'll need to drill out the cutouts on the shelf front before assembly (detail 'c'). For a tip on drilling the cutouts see the box below.

all the workpieces ready to go, you'll be able to assemble the shelf. To keep all four sides square during assembly, I used a 34" plywood spacer the same size as the interior of the box.

After the glue is dry, you can trim the splines on the front corners with a chisel. Some sandpaper will clean up any rough spots.

Create cutouts for wine bottles by clamping the front to a scrap piece and drilling through the center.

Cut the Slots. The slots for the splines can be cut on the table saw. Tilt the blade to 45° and raise it to 3/s".

Back Corner Joinery. The dado that joins the back and sides can be cut with a dado blade on the table saw.

Create cutouts for wine bottles by clamping the front to a scrap piece and drilling through the center.

How-To; Shelf Joinery

Aux.

fence

Rip fence

Set blades at 45'

Vi' -wide dado blade

Back Corner Joinery. The dado that joins the back and sides can be cut with a dado blade on the table saw.

Vi' -wide dado blade

SECOND: Cut waste free with hand saw

FIRST: Cut long edge on table saw

Attach to shelf back & frame ASSEMBLY

SECOND: Cut waste free with hand saw

FIRST: Cut long edge on table saw

Attach to shelf back & frame ASSEMBLY

A A small level is included with the bracket for easier installation.

What makes these shelves unique is the invisible mounting system used to hang them on the wall (left photo). The system uses a hanging bracket that's mounted in a recess in the back of the shelf.

FRAME. The recess for the bracket is created by gluing up a frame, as shown above. This frame fits the back of the shelf and is thick enough to conceal the hanging bracket. I decided to glue-up a frame for the back instead of trying to rout out a recess in a solid piece. This also saves lumber.

After gluing up the frame, I cut a notch at each end to allow the frame to fit over the sides of the shelf (detail T>'). You can cut these notches on the table saw and finish up with a hand saw. When the frame is completed, you can glue it to the back of the shelf.

CAP. Once you have the frame in place, you can glue the cap to the back of the shelf. I added this cap to hide the frame and bracket from view from the front (detail 'a').

BRACKET. The final step is to attach the wall bracket. The two-piece bracket I chose has one piece that is screwed to the back of the shelf (refer to Sources on page 51). The second part is attached to the wall and comes with a small level that slides into a slot (left photo). This way, you'll be able to attach the wall portion and be certain it is level. Be sure to anchor the bracket to wall studs or use wall anchors.

MODIFICATIONS. Modifying a shelf to hold glasses takes a few more steps than the wine bottle rack, but it's not complicated. The box on the opposite page will take you through the process. I've also included a couple of different styles on page 19.

Once you've put a finish on the shelves, all that's left is to hang them on the wall, d

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram (for one shelf/rack)

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