The dovetail keys at the corners strengthen the joints to make a stronger cabinet Plus a Plexiglas door lets you see whats inside

Router bits and neckties have a lot in common. It doesn't take long before you accumulate a sizable number of each. Quality ones are fairly expensive. And most of the time there's really no good way to store them. Since 1 prefer router bits to neckties. I built a storage cabinet to help organize and protect my router bit collection, see photo at right

As you can see, the design for this cabinet Is nothing elaborate. But the dovetail keys at the corners and a Plexiglas door add enough of a challenge to make building this router bit cabinet interesting.

MITERS. To start on the cabinet. I made a square box. It consists of four case sides (A) cut to the same width (4") and milered to length (13'/i"), see drawing on next page.

CROSS SECTION

CROSS SECTION

Dovetail Cross SectionWine Cellar Cabinets Cross Section

NOTE: Cabinet constructed from maple stock

(fc'-thkk Plexiglas

BACK

HOI. DEN

Strike

Magnetic

Dovetail keys bullet catch

NOTE: Use a small _ screw for the strike

To end up with a tight miter joint, the pieces have to be cut to the same length. After cutting an angle on one end of all the pieces, I install a stop block on the auxiliary fence of my miter gauge and cut the pieces to final length. A stop block prevents the pieces from moving away from the blade during the cut.

GROOVES. After cutting the miters, the next step is to cut a '/V'-deep groove at the back of each piece for a "-thick plywood back, see detail 'a*. What's a little unusual is the groove is located W in from the back edge. This provides room for the cleat mounted on the back.

1 couldn't use my dado blade to cut this groove since it had to be less than '/i" wide (the tliicknessof my plywood was less than So I cut the groove by making a couple of passes with a regulfir combination blade to sne;ik up on the width. This way, it's easy to check the fit between passes.

BACK. With the grooves complete, work can begin on the '/j" plywood back (B). The important thing isget-ting the back sized to allow the miters to fit together tightly. To do that, it's a good idea to dry assemble the side pieces and back. Then if there's any gap at the corners, the back can be trimmed a little smaller.

ASSEMBLY. When you're satisfied with the fit, glue and clamp the case sides and back together. (Gluing in the plywood back is a good way to add

BACK

VS-thick plywood

BACK

VS-thick plywood

Plywood Cupboard Making

Cut groove width to match thickness of back u-

NOTE; Case sides are made from '/¡'-thick stock

Cut groove width to match thickness of back u-

v f CASE SIDE

NOTE; Case sides are made from '/¡'-thick stock strength to the case.)

DOVETAIL KEYS. Normally before I glue a box together with mitered corners, I add splines for strength. 1 used splines tills time too. But instead of putting them on the inside of the joint, I added them across the outside corners, see drawing on previous page. These splines have a dovetail shape, but they aren't just decorative. The splines create more surface area for the glue, so you will end up with a stronger joint.

To cut slots for these splines requires using an easy-to-buHd jig, see Fig, I. This jig automatically tips

NOTE: Glue back in groove to add strength to cabinet the router at an angle so the slots can be cut perpendicular to the joint A guide bushing attached to the router base follows a template on the jig, and a W dovetail bit cuts the slots. For more on cutting the slots, keys, and building the jig, refer to page 32,

I routed three slots Mfi" deep at ail the corners of the box. see Figs, 2 and 3a. The spacing between the slots is decorative, so you can space them anyway you want. Then make your keys Lo fit snug in these slots, see Fig. 3, Finally, Irim them with a hand saw and sand them flush with sides of die box. see Fig 3.

Glazing Bar Halving Joint
WOrE: Glue key in slot and trim flush with a handsaw

Feed bit slowly into workpiece

Vi-dovetail bit

Feed bit slowly into workpiece

Vi-dovetail bit

After sanding ihe keys flush on the outside of the case, I turned my attention to the inside and began work on the three bit holders next

GIT HOLDERS. These bit holders (C) are cut from three 1'¿"-thick blanks with diameter holes drilled in one edge. To keep things simple, I drilled all the holes the same size. For my router bits with a W-diameter shank. I used nylon sleeves to reduce the size. See the box at the bottom of the next page. For sources, see page 35. How far apart you drill the holes depends on what size router bits you have in your collection, see Fig. 4.

Once die holes ;ire drilled. I ripped the holder from die blank by cutting a 45° bevel on one edge. This angle tips die holder so you can get at the bits easily when they're in die case. To cut this bevel safely, 1 started with an extra wide blank (4"). It keeps your hands a safe distance away from die blade, see Figs, 4 and 5.

INSTALLATION. .After the three bit holders are cut free, they can be screwed to the cabinet back, see Figs. 6 and 6a. But you want to be careful where you drill the mounting holes. They need to be positioned so they don't go through the holes for the router bit shanks, see Figs. 7 and 7a.

DOOR. With the bit holders installed in the case, a door can be built next to Cl on die front. I decided to use a full overlay door for the cabinet. This means the door has to be sized to match the overall dimensions of the case. The door is constructed with a pair of stiles (D) and rails (E) with a W-thick Plexiglas panel sandwiched in the middle, see Fig. 8.

To hold the Plexiglas panel in the door, a '¿"-wide x '/("-deep groove is centered on the edge of all die door pieces, see Figs, 9 and 9a, Besides holding the Plexiglas panel, this groove also holds a stub tenon cut on the ends of the rails.

Before cutting the stub tenons, I switched to a dado blade. Then I removed stock from both sides of the rail until the tenon ended up centered on the thickness, see Fig. 10.

All that's left to building the door is cutting the Plexiglas piinel to size. A quick way to find the correct size is to dry assemble the stiles and rails

Bit holder blank

NOTE: Start with extra wide maple blanks to make holders

Bit holder blank

NOTE: Start with extra wide maple blanks to make holders

,-W-dia^

CROSS SECTION

i\

V

A -

T

W

J

Set blade at 45"

Pout ion fence so falls away from bladt

Pout ion fence so falls away from bladt

NOTE:

Set blade at 45"

Install bit holders level in case

Bottom bit holder rests on bottom of case

Install bit holders level in case

*t'-dia, mounting hole

#8xWFh woodscrew

NOTE: Drill mounting holes to miss the shank holes in the bit holders

Center

*t'-dia, mounting hole

#8xWFh woodscrew and measure the opening. Now add in the lengths of the tenons (W) and V subtract !/fe" for clearance. Then cut die panel to size. In my case die panel ended up 10%" x 10%". Finally, glue the stiles and rails together with the Plexiglas panel in place.

HINGES. With the door built, it's ready to hang on the case. To do this, I mortised the hinges into the case and screwed them to the door, see Figs. 11 and 11a,

KNOB & CATCHES. To keep the door closed, I installed a pair of magnetic catches, see Fig. lib. The instructions that came with the catches recommended using a ^is" drill bit. But the fit was a little too tight So instead. I drilled the holes a bit oversize CVfc"). Then to make sure the catches would stay put, I coated the inside of the holes with a little epoxy before Installing them in the case.

With the catches installed, the door strikes came next. But I couldn't use the ones that came with my catches. The small metal washers were too thick for the size of my door. (It made * the doorlooklike it was hanging part way open.) To solve this problem, I simply used a short steel screw (#6 x !#') for the strike. Finally, to complete the door, a birch knob is installed on the stile, see Figs. 11 and 1 lc. The knob is centered on the height of the door and fastened to the stile with a screw.

CLEAT, Added to the* back of the Case is a cleat (F) and a hanger (G). They make ¡L easy to hang the cabinet on the wall and to remove il if you want to take it to a job site.

Both the cleat and hanger are made from '¿"-thick stock with a 30° bevel cut on one edge, see Fig. 12. The cleat is cut to size and simply glued to the back of the case. Then mount the banger level on the wall with a couple long woodscrews. To hold the case securely, just make sure these screws hit a wall stud. DI

NOTE: Stiles and rails are Vi'-thick stock

NOTE:

Cut Plexiglas to fit opening between stiles and rails

NOTE: Stiles and rails are Vi'-thick stock

NOTE:

Cut Plexiglas to fit opening between stiles and rails

Cut groove on one edge of door pieces _

Fence

Center groove on door stiles and rails

Cut groove on one edge of door pieces _

Fence

Center groove on door stiles and rails

Center tenon on ends of rails

Center tenon on ends of rails

NOTE:

Center knob on door stile

Key Making Seamless Cabinets

catch

NOTE:

Center knob on door stile catch

NOTE:

Mortise hinges into case side the full thickness of the hinge barrel

Mortise hinge into case side only

Mortise hinge into case side only

#6 * Vz'Fh woodscrew

#6 * Vz'Fh woodscrew

Epoxy catch in hole

Epoxy catch in hole

NYLON SLEEVES

This cabinet Gin also store your !/i"- shank bits by simply adding a Vj"-dta. nylon sleeve to any of the holes.

NOTE: Cut30' bevel on both cleat and hanger

W-dia. mounting hole

Router Bit For Dovetail Joints

NOTE: Cut30' bevel on both cleat and hanger

W-dia. mounting hole

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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Responses

  • tesmi
    Do you glue box before cutting dovetail slot?
    6 years ago

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