Table Saw Upgrad

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Stop block ensures consistent length on inset drawing above. I cut a groove in the fence and added an aluminum T-track. This allows you to add a stop block for cutting multiple pieces to the same length. Or you could mount clamps on it to hold the work-piece in position for accurate cuts.

T-track used for mounting

These easy-to-build add-ons help you get the most out of this shop workhorse. They'll earn their keep by helping you work smarter and safer.

1 Miter Gauge Fence

The miter gauge that comes with your table saw often leaves a lot to be desired. The face doesn't do much to support a long workpiece which means you'll sometimes get tearout when crosscutting.

But you can make a big improvement to your miter gauge by adding an auxiliary fence. 1 use a nice, straight piece of hardwood or plywood at least 18" long.

Screws fasten fence to gauge

It should extend past the saw blade to help support the workpiece on the other side of the blade. And you'll want it high enough so the blade doesn't cut it in two.

It only takes a couple of screws to secure it to my miter gauge as you can see in the

Taller fence provides support for larger workpieces

2 Toll Rip Fence

The rip fence on most table saws is usually only 3" or 4" high. And that's fine for ripping. But that's not high enough to support a long workpiece standing on end, or a large panel. And cutting rabbets with a dado blade becomes a bit of a trick since I risk cutting into my stock rip fence.

This fence solves all those problems. It provides a tall surface for supporting large or long workpieces. And if I flip it around, it becomes a sacrificial fence for rabbeting. I don't have to worry about the blade eating into my fence.

As you can see in the drawings, construction is pretty simple. The trick is to get a snug fit on your rip fence so it doesn't move. You might have to take it apart to "tweak" the fit, so you'll want to use screws instead of glue for assembly.

Use the short side as a sacrificial fence for burying your dado blade.

Taller fence provides support for larger workpieces

^^ Having my hands so close to a sharp, spinning blade makes me nervous when I'm ripping stock. This push block gets my fingers up and out of the way.

The push block consists of three pieces. The body is a piece of scrap 4-6" long and 3-4" high. The handle is cut to shape and notched for the "heel" piece. The heel piece is made from either %" or '/t" hardwood or plywood. It's easily replaced as it gets chewed up by the saw blade.

To assemble the push block, I made the heel piece project about 1/a" from the bottom of the body. Then you can screw the pieces together.

Handle positions fingers safely away from the blade----

Push block applies downward pressure to workpiece

Heel pushes stock through saw

Heel is positioned behind work piece

Feed direction

Screws adjust insert flush with table surface

4 Anti-Kickback Splitter

Most factory-supplied splitters are hard to align and often difficult to remove. But a splitter serves an important function. It helps prevent a board from "pinching" the blade during a rip cut.

The first thing you'll need to do is make a new insert for your table saw. Extend the kerf to the back side of the insert to house the splitter (drawing at left).

Now you can make the splitter. I used a piece of hard-board. You'll want the thickness to fit snugly in the saw kerf. Aim for a tight friction fit. Form a point at the front of the splitter with a rasp or file and sand it smooth.

Pointed end prevents binding

Splitter fits snugly in saw kerf

Flush trim router bit cleans — up edges

Factory insert used as a pattern

Knob tightens featherboard in place /

A featherboard is one of those tools that's simple in design but makes for safer, more accurate cuts.

You can make featherboards from scrap pieces. While you're set up to cut them, you might as well make several. They come in handy for a lot of shop operations.

The featherboard shown here is designed to be clamped in the miter slot on your table saw. This helps keep the workpiece tight against the rip fence.

To cut the "fingers" on the featherboards, use the setup shown in the lower left drawing. An auxiliary fence on the miter gauge helps support the stock.

The small piece that rides in the miter slot is kerfed and countersunk on the bottom for a flat-head screw. The screw head forces the sides out to clamp it in place as it is tightened.

Routed slot allows for easy adjustment

Threaded knob



Auxiliary fence slides for each cut

Screw wedges bar tight in miter slot \ when tightened

Miter bar stock

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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