RAIL IS SET BACK 1/4" FROM SHELF
2-1/2 DEG. BEVEL ON FRONT RAIL
Layout of Rail
To draw the arc, make a beam compass with a radius of 26 in. Draw two arcs from points A. Draw the rail's arc from point B
2 Rout grooves down the entire length of every glue joint for the sides and shelves. A slot cutter with a bearing on top makes a consistently accurate cut. Offset the groove from the center, so you can always be sure which side is the face.
1 Plane every board I in. thick.To prevent snipe (that nasty depression at the end of a board), butt one piece up against another as you feed them into the planer.
3 Push a spline into a groove, without glue, then spread glue alongside the spline.The spline aligns the boards amazingly well when it fits very snugly in the groove. If you put glue on the spline or in the groove, you might have trouble assembling the joint.
4 Clamp the boards together and check for flatness with a straightedge. Be fussy and adjust the heads of the clamps up or down until the boards lay absolutely flat under moderate clamp pressure.
all, once the bookstand is full of books, the insides really don't show.
1. Mill all the lumber for the sides (A) and shelves (B, C, D and E) at the same time. Plane the pieces in stages to make absolutely flat boards. First, joint one face and plane the wood to 1-1/8-in. thick. Let the wood set for a few days.
2. Re-joint all the boards and plane them down to 1 in. (Photo 1). Joint one edge of each board and rip it to width. Joint the second edge.
3. After gluing, the sides and shelves should be flat and the joints even. The key to making even joints is to align them with a spline. Use a slot cutter to rout l/4-in.-deep grooves down the full length of all the edges that will be glued (Photo 2).
4. Make splines that fit tightly in the grooves. Use cherry, because it will show on the tops of the sides. Sand the edges of the splines so it's easy to tap them into the grooves (Photo 3).
5. Glue the sides and shelves together (Photo 4).
Lay Out the Sides
6. The sides remain rectangles until all the joinery is complete. Rip the sides to width and cut them to length with a crosscut sled.
vshelf® offcut dado
5 Rout stopped dadoes with a jig and a top-bearing pattern bit £? Rout the dado for the slanted top shelf. Remove the guide (see inset). Scrap pieces of shelf built into the jig make the boards from the end of the jig and screw the jig directly to width of the dado exactly match the thickness of the shelf. the side of the bookstand.The screws go in waste areas that will be cut off later.
7 Screw temporary spacing blocks into the dadoes. Remove Q Drill out the bulk of each mortise with a Forstner bit. two of the blocks.The openings outline the mortises you'll be w Support the workpiece on a large board attached to your drill cutting through the bookstand sides. press table. Drill over a clean area of the support board so you don't get any chip-out.
7. Draw the dadoes that receive the shelves on the inside face of each side (Fig. J, page 78). Draw the angled top and front of each side.
Cut the Dadoes
8. Make a router jig to cut dadoes for the shelves. (Fig. D, page 78). Assemble it on a bookstand's side to ensure it's square and fits tight.
9. Cut dadoes 3/8 in. deep with a top-bearing pattern bit (Photo 5).
Line up the jig with the dadoes as drawn on the sides. Start the bit in the hole in one end block. Insert different filler pieces into the jig's slot to make dadoes of different lengths.
10. Square the end of the dadoes with a chisel. Use the jig as a guide.
11. Rout the dadoes for the slanted top shelf (Photo 6). Line up the end of the jig's slot with the end of the dado as drawn on the workpiece.
12. Cut a set of spacing blocks to guide your router when making the mortises (Fig. G, page 78). Start from the open end of the dado and screw the blocks in place one at a time. Remove the mortise pieces (Photo 7).
13. Drill the mortises with a 3/4-in. Forstner bit (Photo 8). Stay 1/8 in. away from the spacing blocks. Drill two outer holes first, then drill a center hole.
14. Carefully place the router in the
Make beautiful kitchen doors and drawers.
This professional quality 1/2" shank set contains six carbide tipped bits needed for fine cabinet making, raised panel doors, kitchen table top and drawer assembly. Designed for up to 3/4" wood thickness.
1. The Ogee Raised Panel bit (in the
Standard Set) puts a classic ogee edge on the free floating central panel in your door.
2-3/4" large diameter.
2. The Ogee Raised Panel with Undercutter
(in the Undercutter Set ONLY) produces a flush or reduced upper panel profile.
3-1/8" large diameter.
3. Our Matched Rail and Stile set creates precisely mated rails and stiles that form an extremely durable, classic frame for your door. 1 -5/8" large diameter.
4. Use the Glue Joint bit when the central panel needs to be wider than
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