Wedgeblank G

Mortise Guide Block

Note: These quantities make two sets (one for each side).

Complete the Sides

28. Rough cut the front and top of the bookstands sides. Make a 1/2-in.-thick straightedge, then finish up these edges with a router (Photo 18). Take light cuts, because the bit only has a 1/4-in. shank.

29. Draw arcs on the bottom of each side and cut them out.

30. Chamfer the top corners of the side with a block plane or file and sandpaper (Fig. A.page 68). Slightly round over every edge with 120-grit sandpaper.

Add the Rails and Sliding Shelves

31. Assemble the bookstand and tap all the wedges back into place. Cut the rails (F) so they fit tight in between the sides. Rip the top edge of the front rail so it matches the angle of the sides (Fig. A, page 68).

32. Draw an arc on the bottom of each rail (Fig. C, page 68). Saw the arc and smooth it with a file, large sanding drum or sandpaper.

33. Glue each rail to the underside of the lower shelf. The rail is set back 1/4 in. (Fig. A, page 68).

34. Rip the loose shelves (B and D) to fit the case. Rip the back edge of the top shelf to match the angle of the case (Fig. A). Trim the shelves 1/16 in. shorter than the inside distance between the bottoms of the dadoes. This clearance gives you a little wiggle room to slide in the shelves. If a shelf is too tight to slide, plane or sand the bottom.

Finishing

35. Take the bookstand apart and sand each piece up to 180 grit. Seal with a wash coat of shellac (two parts standard 3-lb. cut shellac thinned with one part denatured alcohol) and sand with 240-grit paper. Apply a wiping varnish (Photo 19 and Sources, below). The shellac slightly seals the surface, helping the finish to go on much more evenly. We used Minwax Antique Oil, because it gives the cherry a beautiful warm color. We put the second and third coats on with fine synthetic steel wool (see Sources, below). Rubbing back and forth many times over with steel wool eliminates the need for further sanding and makes a velvety soft surface.

36. Let the finish dry for a few days before reassembling the case (Photos 20 and 21). /W

Sources

MLCS, (800) 533-9298 www.mlcswoodworking.com 3-Wing slot cutter, 1/2" shank, l/4"-wide cut, #18648, $26; additional bearing to make l/4"-deep cut, #12113, $7 Top-bearing pattern bit, 1/2" dia., 1/4" shank, I" cutting length, #16506, $20 Toggle hold down clamp, #9058, $8 each 3/4" Forstner bit, #9209, $6: 7/8" bit,#921 I, $7.

Lee Valley, (800) 871-8158 www.leevalley.com 3/8" mortise chisel, #85S02.02. $30.

Minwax. (800) 523-9299 www.minwax.com Antique Oil Finish, I qt., $ 12-$ 15.

Woodcraft Supply, (800) 225-I 153, www.woodcraft.com Fine fibral abrasive wool, #145365 $20.

O "I Slide in the loose shelves and you're done.You've im I got a rock-solid bookstand that's held together with nothing but wedges.

Cutting List 47" H x 31" W x 14-1 /2" D

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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