Lamp Base

Once the lamp post is complete, work can begin on the base. The base is built up from a ■W'-thick platform that sits on a V^'-thick frame, refer to Fig. 11.

Both the platform and frame are made by joining four mitered pieces to form squares. Instead of mitering short pieces to form the squares, it's safer to start with longer blanks.

ClT BLANKS. First, cut a blank for the platform pieces (see Fig. 5). and a blank for the frame pieces, see Fig. 6.

miter set-up. After cutting these blanks to size, cut four mitered pieces off of each blank. To do this, I first screwed a long fence to the miter gauge to support the pieces. Then I set the miter gauge to 45s and clamped the blank to the fence so it wouldn't "creep" as the miter is cut. Now miter one end of each blank, see Step 1 in Fig. 7.

PLATFORM PIECES. To cut the platform pieces (C), measure 6^8" from the mitered point of the blank and make a mark. Then align the mark with the blade and clamp the blank to the fence, see Step 2 in Fig. 7.

You can cut four mitered pieces to identical lengths by using the rip fence as a stop, see Step 2 in Fig. 7. Clamp a block to the fence, and then position the fence so the block butts against the pointed end of the blank. (The block keeps the cut-offs from binding.)

After making the cut, unclamp the blank, turn it over, slide the point against the block, and make another cut. Then repeat this procedure for the remaining pieces.

ClT FRAME PIECES. To cut the frame pieces (D) to length, make a mark 7" from the mitered point. Then repeat the same procedure used for the platform pieces.

glue-up. The next step is to glue up the pieces to form the platform and frame squares. (For more on this, see page 17.)

platform profile. Next, an angled cut is made on the face of the platform to "raise" the center section with VV'-high shoulders, while also leaving a W lip at the base.

To do this, first adjust the blade for a W'-deepcut, and cut kerfs to form the shoulders of the raised center section, see Fig. 8.

To support the platform for the angled cut, I used an auxiliary fence, see Fig. 9. Set the blade l7/i6M high, tilt it to an 11* angle, and move the rip fence W from the blade. Test this cut on a scrap piece, and then cut the platform, see Fig. 9. (Save the test piece for clamping the decorative strips later.)

Safety Note: The narrow edge of the platform can slip into the opening along the blade. To prevent this, I made a wooden (zero clearance) insert that fits tight to the blade.

round over frame. As for the base frame, round over the top edge with a W round-over bit, see Fig. 10. • .assembly. To assemble the base, first screw the frame to the platform, see Fig. 11. Then glue on four 1 "-square feet (E).

STEP 2

MITER ONE

END OF EACH BLANK

MITER ONE

END OF EACH BLANK

NOTE:

BLADE WILL CUT THROUGH BOTTOM HALF OF FENCE

NOTE:

BLADE WILL CUT THROUGH BOTTOM HALF OF FENCE

STEP 2

BUTT BLANK AGAINST STOP BLOCK AND ADJUST FENCE TO CUT PIECE TO LENGTH

FEET

Fh SCREWS

FEET

Fh SCREWS

DRILL HOLES

FROM INSIDE EDGE

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