Editors note



designer series project

Knock-Down Bookshelf 20

It's functional and looks great, but the best part is it goes together with no trouble.

heirloom project Pencil Post Bed 28

This classic bed features simple joinery, hand-carved details, and traditional hardware.


video works

Choosing the Best Joinery 38

Learn the ins and outs of how to selecting the light joinery lor your next project.

details of craftsmanship A Lamb's Tongue Chamfer 50

A chisel, carving knife, and file are all it takes to create this great-looking traditional detail.

online extra

video works

s you might expect, quite a bit of planning goes into each issue of Woodsmith. But surprisingly, it's the unplanned part that 1 find the most interesting.

Take the pencil post bed in this issue for example. I've always been impressed with the look of this type of bed. And I've been planning on featuring it as a project for quite some time. But what I didn't plan on was how excited everyone around here (myself included) became about this project. For one thing, it gave us an opportunity to try our hand at some different woodworking techniques. Especially when it came to making the tall, tapered posts.

The initial plan was to taper them on the band saw, then plane the edges to create an octagonal shape. This method works just fine. But, Steve Johnson (our shop craftsman) came up with a jig which allows you to do most of the shaping on the table saw.

But the posts are just part of the project. You still need to connect them with a headboard and rails. Like the Shakers, we used a draw bolt system to hold the rails to the posts. And the headboard just slips into mortises between the tall posts. Nothing is glued in place. This means the bed can be completely taken apart. Which makes getting the tall, tapered posts through a doorway much easier. Made sense then, still makes sense today.


video worksho a

Wudsmfth J


These two symbols let you know there's more information online at www.Woodsmith.com. There you'll see step-by-step videos, technique and hardware animation, bonus cutting diagrams, and a lot more.

Jig For Bed Rail

Pencil Post Bed page 28

from our readers

Tips & Techniques

Band Saw Arc Jig

Curved Band Saw Jigs

The band saw arc-cutting jig makes it easy to cut identical, curved parts like the lower rails on this table.

I liked the tile-top table in issue 152 so much that I decided to make a few of them as gifts for friends and family. And when building multiple, identical pieces, it's important to find ways to make cutting and shaping parts as quick and efficient as possible. One place that I needed to find a way to save some time was cutting and shaping the arcs on the lower rails of the table shown in the photo at left. Cutting each arc free hand on the band saw and then sanding it smooth would be a difficult, time-consuming job.

To speed things along, I built a simple arc-cutting jig for my band saw, as shown in the photo above right. There are two advantages to this jig. First, it makes it easy to create identical cuts on multiple pieces. Second, the surface is a lot smoother, so I won't need to do as much sanding.


If you have an original shop tip, we would like to hear from you and consider publishing your tip in one or more of our publications. Just write down your tip and mail it to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312. Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we have any questions. If you would like, FAX it to us at 515-282-6741 or send us an email message at: [email protected]. We will pay up to $200 if we publish your tip.

There's really not much to this jig, just two main parts. The first is a V4" plywood base. To locate the base on the band saw table, I attached a hardwood runner to fit in the miter gauge slot. The base is held in place with a spring clamp.

The second part of the jig is a pivot arm that holds the workpiece as it's being cut. The V plywood arm swivels on a nail set into the base to match the radius (26%" for the tile top-table). A side and end stop register the workpiece and keep it in place during the cut.

To use the jig, all you have to do is pull the pivot arm away from the blade, set the blank in place, and then make your cut. Now every cut will be identical.

Carl Wood Burkson, Terns

Sr.op blocks on end and side

Sr.op blocks on end and side

Woodsmith Vacuum

Drill Press Storage Cart

In a small workshop, making the most of every square inch of space is important. One area that has always gone unused, is the space around my floor model drill press. Then I found the solution in my kitchen — a rolling pantry cart, as shown in the drawing at right.

What makes the cart so perfect is that it's not much wider than the drill press, and it rolls out of the way if I need more space. The shelves hold boxes of bits, clamps, and other accessories within easy reach. And the wire shelves let dust and chips fall right through to the floor.

Emie Sterner Goodyear, Arizona

Wire shelves won't collect dust and chips

Arizona Wire Art Drawing
Cart rolls away for drilling tall or wide parts

Wire shelves won't collect dust and chips

Edgebanding Support

While making a set of plywood bookshelves recently, I used iron-on veneer tape to hide the edges of the plywood panels and shelves. The problem was finding an


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Hi JL.

June/July, 2004

Publisher Donald B Peschke

Editor Assistant Editors

Contrib. Editors

Art Director Senior Illustrators


Terry J. Strohman Ted Raife Phil Huber Vince Ancona Chris Fitch

Todd Lambirth David Kreyling Dirk Ver Steeg Harlan V. Clark Peter). Larson Dave Kallemvn

Spin Your Filter Clean

Every so often I need to clean out the pleated filter in my shop vacuum. To get the job done faster, I've come up with a way to do this using my electric drill.

Start by chucking a piece of threaded rod in the drill. Then twist on a hex nut, washer, and the filter. Next, cut a circular piece of scrap to fit the open end of the filter and secure it with another washer and nut. After going outdoors, I run the drill, holding a brush against the pleats. The bristles brush away the dust in the folds.

Roger Lynne Bloomingt* m, Minnesota extra worksurface that would hold the pieces on edge while keeping my workbench free for assembling the shelf unit.

The solution was right in front of me. The miter gauge slots in the table saw are 3A" wide, which is a perfect fit for the slightly undersized 3A" plywood. Using the slots leaves one hand free to position the veneer tape and iron it in place with the other hand. For a little extra support, I positioned the saw's rip fence alongside the workpiece, as you can see in the photo at left. Best of all, the pieces are set at the perfect working height, so there are no long reaches or stooping over.

The slip fit of the panels in the slots lets me work quickly. I can pick up one piece, set it in place, apply the edgebanding. Then pull out the shelf and move on to the next piece in a short amount of time.

Bret; Waldorf, Amantlii, Texas


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Circular wood block spans open end of vacuum filter

Hex nut and washer

Circular wood block spans open end of vacuum filter

Threaded rod with hex

Hex nut and washer

Woodsmith Beds

Plastic wing knob

Shop Made Bench Dogs

more tips from our readers

Shop-Made Bench Dogs

Bench dogs come in handy for all kinds of jobs at the workbench, like clamping a long workpiece for routing or planing. But what they can't do is hold something down on the top of the bench, for example, the planing stop shown in the photo at right. For this job, I turn to a different "breed" of bench dogs.

These dogs can be locked in place with a simple twist of a wing knob. The secret is a stove bolt located in the stem, as you can see in the drawing at right.

The tapered head of the stove bolt rests in a countersunk hole drilled through the length of a 3A"-dia. hardwood dowel. Twisting a plastic wing knob at the top of the dog draws the head of the bolt into the stem. A slit in the dowel allows it to expand and hold fast in the dog hole, as illustrated in detail 'a.' A 3U" plywood cap is glued around the dowel and anchors the jig or workpiece.

Melvin VanDyke Belprc, Ohio

Router Table Hold-Down

While working on my router table recently, I noticed that the workpiece had a tendency to ride up on the bit. The way to solve this problem is to use a hold-down, as you can see in the photo below.

%" diameter Dowel


Head For Bed Post Knobs

-20 x 3Vi" Stove bolt

3/t" Plywood

-20 x 3Vi" Stove bolt

Plastic wing knob

3/t" Plywood


%" diameter Dowel


ligntening khod expands dowel


ligntening khod expands dowel

%" Plywood

%"Steel packing strap

The hold-down that I made is pretty simple and doesn't take much material or time. It's made from a piece of 3U" plywood, as illustrated in the drawing below. There are two angled saw kerfs in the bottom edge to hold a short piece of steel strapping. (The kind used on shipping boxes.)

All you have to do is clamp the hold-down to the router table fence with the strapping set a hair lower than the top of the piece you will be routing The strapping acts like a spring and applies enough pressure to the workpiece to hold it firmly against the router table and in contact with the router bit.

Patrick Brarmcm

Butler, Kentucky

%" Plywood

%"Steel packing strap

Collector fits under lower blade guide

Sawtable Dust Collection

so saw table can tilt


Collector made from W hardboard

Router Table Fence Drawings

Band Saw Dust Collector

Resawing and cutting thick stock on the band saw creates a lot of dust that seems to get everywhere and can be difficult to clean out. Although my saw has a built in dust collection port, I've never been real happy with it. It just doesn't seem to be big enough to catch much of the saw dust.

To overcome this problem, I built a new dust collector attachment for my saw, as shown in the drawing at right and below. It's just a small box made from 'A" hardboard, with an opening at the top and bottom. The upper opening fits under the lower blade guides. The lower opening is sized to fit the hose from my dust collector.

When making the collector attachment, you want to make sure the joints are well sealed to make it as airtight as possible. The top of the collector is angled at 45° so that the saw table can still be tilted without having to remove the collector attachment (detail 'a'). I sized the collector to fit over the dust port on the band saw. To attach the dust collector to the saw, I bolted it to back of the band saw case (not the door) with some aluminum L-brackets, bolts, washers, and nuts. This way I can still open the door to access the blade and lower wheel.

Curt Literski Stevens Point, Wisconsin so saw table can tilt


Collector made from W hardboard

Collector fits under lower blade guide

Size opening to fit dust collector hose or shop vacuum

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