Ball Bearing

and pull on it. The wheel shouldn't move more than 0.003 or 0.004 in. on its shaft. If end play is greater than that, you can try adding a shim to take up the slack. (See drawing, below.)

Wheel Balance— Out-of-balance wheels can really make your saw dance across the floor. Test for balance by removing the blade and spinning each wheel by hand. (You have to remove the drive belt to let the bottom wheel spin freely.) If the wheel settles in one spot consistently, it is out of balance. You can try to correct the imbalance by drilling shallow holes inside the rim on the heavy side of the wheel. (See photo, above.)

Guide-Post Alignment—Some saws had upper guide posts that didn't remain parallel to the blade as we raised and lowered the guides. To check your guide post, lower the post as far as it will go, lock it in place and adjust the upper guides and thrust bearing, so that they're close to the blade. Then raise the post to the top of its range and lock it. If the position of the guides By filing the mating surface and the thrust bearing in of this post clamp, we improved relation to the blade has the guide-post alignment on one changed, the post is not of our test saws. parallel. We were able to fix this problem on two of our test saws by filing the post clamp that holds the post to the saw frame. (See photo, above.) On other saws, you might be able to shim the post clamp for a better fit.

Guide-Post Play—To check for play here, lower the post all the way, lock it and move it in all directions. If there's so much slop that you get a "clunk-clunk" as the post moves in the clamp, the play is excessive. You may be able to file the guide-post bracket so you get a better fit between the bracket and the post. Otherwise, ask the manufacturer for a replacement bracket.

FRED MATLACK beads the AW design shop.

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