When sizing a blank for resawing. make it about 6 in. longer and '/« in. wider than the finished lamination. This helps when dimensioning the thin stock, and also helps later when clamping and cutting the laminated part to final size.

Glue joints will have fewer gaps if the faces of the laminates are flat and clear of saw marks. My resaw technique produces one clean face and one sawn face. (See sidebar.) To remove the saw marks, I resaw the laminates a little thick, and then plane them to exact dimension by taking light cuts with my thickness planer.

Thicknessing thin stock works better on small, high-speed planers than on big monsters, but even so, your planer may chew up a few pieces, so it's a good idea to make some extra laminates. After thicknessing, trim any planer snipes from the ends of the laminates.

To give the appearance of a solid board in the finished lamination, glue the laminates together in the same order as they came off the saw—the way salami drops off a meat slicer at the deli. (See photo, previous page.) This helps hide glue lines and gives a more natural look to the work. If you're buying veneer for laminating, ask for "flitch-cut" veneer.

Clamping the Laminates

There are several approaches and techniques for clamping the laminates to the forms.

Prior to clamping, mark the center of the stack of laminates so you can align them with the centerline of the form when you begin clamping. (See drawing.)

On one- and two-part forms, use a cover layer of '/»-in. masonitc (% in. thick if the curve is severe) over the outermost laminate to help distribute the clamping pressure and to protect

Make cover layer from Vfc-in. or Win. masonite.

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