Shaker Footstool

This project uses many of the same techniques used to build the rocker. And it's a great project you can build in just a weekend.

Waste -for routing doweís

From the start, I planned on building a footstool to go with the Shaker-style rocker on page 6. Besides being a nice place to rest your feet, the stool features many of the same techniques used to build the rocker. For instance, all the pieces are straight dowels, joined with round mortise and tenons.

I enjoyed building the first stool so much, I decided to build another one — this time with a different wood (cherry) and using different colors to weave the seat. This doesn't take as long as you might think. You can easily "knock out" one in a weekend.

In fact, if you wanted to use store-bought dowels, the stool could be completed in a day, see page 35 for sources. However, this would require drilling holes in round stock instead of square blanks. But a special holding jig for doing just this is included in the article on page 15.

LEGS. To begin, I cut four legs (A) 1V&" square, see drawing below. The final length of these pieces will be i<5>

NOTE:

All holes drilled 3A" deep

5"

5"

4"

I6V2

Waste for -routing dowels

NOTE:

When laying out holes, create two mirrored pairs

16V&", but I cut mine 5" extra-long. (This extra length comes in handy when it comes time to rout the square blanks into round dowels.)

The next step is to lay out the finished top and bottom ends and the holes that will be drilled to hold the rails later. Just keep in mind that these legs aren't identical. They create two pairs that mirror each other, see drawing below. So after laying them out, stand the four legs on end to make sure each set of holes lines up.

All the holes in the legs are simply flat-bottomed holes 3A" deep, see drawing in margin. But they're not the same diameter. The top hole on each face is 3A" to match the tenons on the upper rails, see detail 'a' at right. The bottom two holes are W. (I drilled these holes using Forstner bits chucked in the drill press.)

At this point, the square leg blanks are ready to be "turned" into dowels. And to do this, I routed them on a router table using a 3/4n-radius round-

21V2"

CUTTING DIAGRAM

1 x 4" - 24" (Two Boards @ 1.3 Bd. Ft. Each)

3A" x 4" - 24" (.7 Bd. Ft.)

- £ -

\///////\

- E -

//Z)'y/y///////////////////yz

UPPER FRONT/BACK RAIL

UPPER END RAIL

Chamfer top and bottom of legs

FRONT/BACK RAIL

(Make four)

Chamfer top and bottom of legs

UPPER FRONT/BACK RAIL

over bit, see Fig. 1. Each leg requires four "stopped" passes over the bit, refer to the article on page 14.

Now the legs can be cut to finished length (I61/2"). This has to be done carefully, or the holes won't align. Then to complete the legs, I sanded them smooth and routed a Vh" chamfer on each end, see detail 'b'.

RAILS. The front/back (B, C) and end rails (D, E) that connect the legs start out as 5" extra-long square blanks just like the legs. There are no holes to drill, so the first thing to do is round over their edges, using a '/¿"-radius round-over bit for the 1"-dia. rails (B, D) and a %"-radius bit for the 3/4"-dia. rails (C, E).

After all the rails have been cut to final length (19" for the front and back rails and 13" for the ends), I cut tenons on both ends of each piece, using a W-dia. core box bit, see Fig. 2 and the article on page 15. Though the height of the bit should be the same make sure they weren't twisted, I set them on a flat surface. And also measure the widths at the top and bottom to make sure they're the same.

When the glue is dried on the end assemblies, they can be connected with the front and back rails, see Fig. 3. To make sure the stool didn't rock, I set it on the table saw. (If it does, put some weight on it.)

At this point, the "woodworking" is done, so you can finish the footstool. (I wiped on three or four coats of an oil finish.) Then you can weave the seat with cotton tape, refer to the article on page 20. E9

UPPER END RAIL

FIRST:

Slowly pivot workpiece into bit

FRONT/BACK RAIL

(Make four)

for all the tenons (%"), the important thing is that they fit the holes in the legs. So if s a good idea to sneak up on the final size of the tenons.

ASSEMBLY. With the tenons cut, the stool can be assembled. I glued up the end assemblies first, see Fig. 3. To

SECOND: Slide along fence lilt ill NOTE: For more see page 14

CROSS > SECTION

S \

Yi_

Upper rails

W

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Ti

Lower rails /

Vi'

©®

i

fence ^^Support blocky

/Clamp support vu block to router table

NOTE: Size of tenons vary, see detail 'a' above

Y// / '

V2"-dia. core box ^bit

MATERIALS

A Legs (4)

IV2X I6V2

B Upr. Fr./Bk. Rails (2)

1 X 19

C Lwr. Fr./Bk. Rails (4)

3/4Xl9

D Upr. End Rails (2)

1 X 13

E Lwr. End Rails (4)

%x 13

• (30 yds.) 1 "-wide Cotton Tape

• (8) 1/2"-long Upholstery Tacks

• (1) 1 "-thick foam

M After the finish is applied to the stool, the cotton tape is woven around the rails (and a piece of foam), refer to the article on page 18.

Make sure all four legs set evenly on surface

/Clamp support vu block to router table

NOTE: Measure width at top and bottom

Make sure all four legs set evenly on surface

NOTE: Measure width at top and bottom

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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