Weaving the Weft

At this point, if s time to begin weaving the weft piece of tape through the warp. This is what creates the "checkerboard" look — or any other pattern you might want to weave, see the box on page 21.

TACKING THE WEFT. Like the warp, the first thing to do with the weft is anchor it to the chair frame. But there's an important difference. Instead of being tacked on the backrest post near the bottom, I secured the weft piece on the underside of the top rail, see Step 6. (For a chair seat, the weft is tacked on the inside edge of the back rail near one of the legs.)

To do this, first move to the back of the chair (or flip it over if you're working on the seat) and weave the weft tape under and over the warp pieces from one end to the other, see Step 6. Then push some of the warp pieces aside so you can tack the end of the weft piece to the backrest rail.

WEAVING THE WEFT. Now ifs time to weave the weft. This piece is woven through the warp at both the front

6 Weave the tape across the back of the chair. Then push aside the warp pieces and tack the end in place.

7 Moving to the front, weave the tape over and under the warp pieces. Then repeat this at the back.

If you need to splice the tape ■Vr (see page 19), cut it so the end will be hidden beneath a warp piece.

n Complete the weft on the back side, weaving it as far as possible and then tacking it as before.

8 At the start of each weft row, make sure it is opposite the pattern of the row that's above it.

While weaving the weft tape, you can keep it neat and clean by feeding it into a cardboard box. Leave the end of the tape hanging out so you can find it easily.

and back sides of the chair.

Unlike the warp, the weft can't be left in a roll, you have to pull all the tape through the warp, see the photo at right. And because there ends up being a big pile of tape, I like to feed the weft into a cardboard box (Let the end hang over the edge so you can find it easily.)

You'll also find the tape gets pretty twisted in the process. The simple way to straighten it out is to force all the twists through the warp before the tape gets pulled to the very end.

While weaving the backrest, you'll be moving from front to back as you weave the two layers. Pull each row tight, though don't pull so hard that you bend the backrest post.

Also, while weaving you want to push each row up against the one before it, see Step 9. And make sure the rows on the front (or on top) are straight and square to the warp rows.

COMPLETING THE WEFT. As you weave

While weaving the weft tape, you can keep it neat and clean by feeding it into a cardboard box. Leave the end of the tape hanging out so you can find it easily.

the last few rows, you'll notice the weaving gets harder because the tape gets tighter. (Needle nose pliers come in handy here.) The weft should end on the back side of the backrest, see Step 11. Simply weave it as far as you can. Then pull a couple warp pieces aside and tack the tape to the backrest rail. Now just cut off the excess and push the warp pieces back in place.

Stool Weaving

DIAMOND

HERRINGBONE PATTERN

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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