Router Table

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When designing this table, I decided to use medium density fiberboard (MDF) instead of plywood. MDF is heavy enough to dampen router vibration; it's stable, and unlike plywood, youH get a clean edge when routing the opening for the insert. (For more on MDF, see page 35.)

FIND DIMENSIONS. To build this table, the first step is to determine the overall dimensions. This is simply a matter of measuring the wing of your saw's table front to back, see drawing next page. (Mine was 27".) The depth of the router table isn't crucial, but you do want it to extend beyond the table saw rails. Otherwise, you'll run into them when working with the router. (My router table is 18" deep.)*fc

LAMINATE TOP. With the size of the table determined, I laminated two pieces of MDF and cut them to size, see drawing below. Just keep in mind that this is IV2" less than the overall size. That's because a W'-thick hardwood edging covers the MDF on all sides to provide better holding power when screwing the table to the saw.

We made good use of every square inch of this router fence. There's even a router bit storage tray that slides inside the fence. Plans for the fence begin on page 31.

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