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3/4" birch plywood

1/4" cherry plywood

1/4" birch plywood

Detail 2 Door Lip

1/4" x 1/2" stopped groove

1/2-length biscuit^.

1/4'"" round over

N 1/4" roundover

22. Attach kicker guides (C5) to the inside of the drawer openings. Adjust the thickness of these guides so there is I/8-in. clearance between them and the top of the drawer sides.

23. Cut a notch in the bottom edge of the drawer back for the center guide (C7). Attach the bottom guides (C6) to the drawer boxes (Photo 8). Use a spacer between the guides to assist with positioning, but slide the spacer out before the glue sets to prevent it from sticking to any glue that squeezes out.

24. Attach the center guide to the inside of the drawer opening with screws at the front and back. Test the fit of the drawer box. There should be about 1/8-in. clearance along the sides of the drawers.

Build the Doors

25. Cut out the parts for the doors (C8 through Cll). Use a slot-and-tenon cutter to machine the joints (see Sources, page 52). Assemble the doors.

26. Round the outer front edge of the doors to match the drawer fronts' roundovers.

27. Rabbet the top and bottom back edges of the doors (Fig. A, Detail 2).

28. Rout and chisel mortises for the butt hinges in the doors and front legs (see Sources) and hang the doors. (Self-closing European-style hinges can be substituted for the butt hinges; see Sources.)

29. Drill the doors and drawers for the wood pulls (C12) and install them (see Sources).

30. Glue the door catches' cleats (CI 3) to the back of the center rail and attach the magnetic catches.

31. Remove the doors, drawers, cabinet back, and hardware and finish-sand all the parts.

Apply the Finish

I used the following products and procedure to achieve the rich, even, cherry tone that you see on the finished sideboard. It looks close to unstained cherry after it ages but somewhat redder. If you prefer the browner tone of naUirally aged cherry, skip Steps 33 through 36.

32. Brush on a coat of SealCoat dewaxed shellac (see Sources, page 52) and let it dry overnight.

33. Sand lightly with 220-grit paper.

34. Brush on a second coat of SealCoat and let it dry overnight.

35. Sand lightly with 220-grit paper.

36. Apply a coat of General Finishes Candlelite gel stain (see Sources). Let it dry overnight.

37. Apply a second coat of gel stain to sapwood areas or other light boards and let it dry overnight.

38. Apply a clear topcoat. I applied Deft semi-gloss with a spray gun, but the aerosol cans also work well (see Sources). A brushed or sprayed-on varnish would also be good choice.

4 Attach the leg panels to the sides of the plywood case. Secure the leg panels with screws for now; you'll need to remove these parts later.

5 Drill dowel holes in the face-frame parts. Only a single dowel is needed at each joint, but you must make sure the joints do not twist during final gluing and clamping.

6 Glue and clamp the assembled face frame to the front of the plywood case. Biscuits on the case's front help with alignment. Don't put glue on the ends of the rails at this time; you'll make biscuit joints and glue them in the next step.

7 Permanently attach the leg panels to the plywood case using both screws and glue. The face-frame rails are joined to the front legs with biscuits. Use half-length biscuits in the middle and top rails and two three-quarter length biscuits in the bottom rail.

Cutting List

overall dimensions: 18-3/4"L x 32"wx 77-3/4"h






Inner Plywood Case

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

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