Cutting a Drawer Lock Joint routing sequence

Is the principal appeal of this joint the .speed with which it is made? Or is it the strength of the assembled joint? While you are working, you'll be pleased at how quickly the work progresses. Hut after the drawers are assembled, you'll l>c impressed with how strong they are. So really, it's both.

1. Set up the router table. Chuck the to-inch slot cutter in the table-mounted router. Adjust the bit extension so the top edge of the cutting teeth is % inch above the tablctop.

Bring the fence into position around the cutter. The typical slot cutter makes a '.-inch-deep slot, which is what you want. So position the fence so it will permit this depth of cut.

2. Install the auxiliary facing on the fence. Drop the auxiliary facing over the fence's vertical face. The gap between the facing's bottom edge and the tabletop is important. It must be Vi6 to lA inch greater than the thickness of the drawer front, since the front must pass beneath it on the first two passes. You can measure the distance with a ruler, or cobble up a couple of spacers. In cither case, adjust the facing position and tighten the clamps to secure the auxiliary facing.

3. Cut the joint. As shown in the drawing Routing Sequence, each joint is cut in four passes.The drawer front is cut first, and three passes are required to complete the joinery on one end. On the fourth pass, the drawer side is slotted. Here are the four passes:

1. With the drawer front flat on the router table top. its exposed face up. slot the end.

2.To raise the workpiecc for a second pass, set it on the booster sled. The orientation remains the same. This pass will widen the slot to V\ inch.

3. Set the sled aside, and stand the workpiecc on end with the exposed face out. Slide the workpiecc along the auxiliary facing, and trim the slot's wall. This completes the drawer front.

4. Slot the drawer side. Stand the workpiecc on end. and feed it along the auxiliary fence to make this cut.

When the two parts are assembled, you have a drawer lock joint.

When making a case full of drawers, it is most expeditious to make the first pass on both ends of each drawer front (and back). Then set the sled on the tablctop and make the second pass on all the pieces. Set the sled aside and complete the fronts (and backs). Set them aside and do the sides.

This approach keeps the work and the routine organized, and minimizes the number of times you fetch and set aside the sled.

Make the first pass with the drawer front flat on the router table top. The workpiece references the fence, passing below the auxiliary fence.

Auxiliary fence

Place the drawer front on top of the hardboard booster sled and make the second pass. Again, the workpiece is against the fence, below the auxiliary fence.

" Fence W slot cutter

Auxiliary fence


Auxiliary fence


Stand the drawer front on end, and slide it along the auxiliary fence. Once both ends of the workpiece are cut. the front is completed.

Drawer front

Auxiliary fence


Slot the drawer side with the workpiece on end and referencing the auxiliary fence.

Drawer side

Auxiliary fence m


Offset Baseplate

Are you on the edge? Tense and sweating, teetering, slipping? This outrigger baseplate makes edge-routing more trouble-free by helping you maintain a router's balance.

So many router operations involve shaping an edge. You perch the machine on the work, but more than half of it is unsupported. Okay, maybe you keep the handles aligned with the edge of the cut. But as often as not. you've got one handle over the work, the other out there in 'unsupported" territory. It's a balancing act.

So is it any wonder you occasionally bobble, tipping the rouier and sniping the edge?

An offset baseplate like this can help you prevent those bobbles. Its oblong shape changes a router's balance. It has a hefty knob at its farthest reach, so you can out-kverage the bobble.

The baseplate is a fairly simple project. If you are not too particular about the detailing, you can cut to the chase, and simply cut a piece of plastic to shape, drill the necessary holes, and mount it on your router: But to produce a precision offset baseplate, one you can use for template work, for example, you should make a template, then make the baseplate from the template.

A benefit of the template approach is that you can easily make more than one baseplate. You can make one baseplate configured to accept template guides, and another to accept fairly large-diameter profile bits.

In the following step-by-step. I'll quickly talk you through the template approach. If you choose to skip the template, go right ahead. Just lay out the baseplate directly on the plastic's masking paper, and work from there. If you aren't completely sure of the procedures. I would encourage you to read through the chapter "The Generic Baseplate" on page 63. It provides a more thorough and detailed sequence for making and fitting a baseplate to a router.

The drawings show two different sizes of offset baseplates. Either one can be made from the nominal foot-square pieces of plastic (acrylic, polycarbonate, and phenolic) that are available from mail-order woodworking sources. The larger baseplate you lay out on a diagonal, as you can see in the drawing, while the smaller one is oriented on the work-piece from side to side.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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