Plastic laminate, 2 pes. 5" x 18" each 4 toilet bolts, Va" x 2^"

4 plastic knobs. 4-prong, 1dia. with 'A" through threaded inserts; #DK-59 from Reid Tool Supply Co. (800-253 0421)

2 carriage bolts. H"-16 x AW

2 plastic wing knobs with ^«"-16 threaded Insert; #85J94 from Woodcraft Supply Co. (800-225-11 53)

2 panhead screws, #6x1"

2. Laminate the face plies. Apply glue to the mating faces, and spread it thinly and evenly over the surfaces. Put the surfaces together and twist them a bit to get a good bond. Line up the edges and apply clamps.

3. Glue the backs to the base. Before actually gluing the backs in place, drill the holes for the toilet bolts that mount the faces to the fence. Lay out and drill the holes carefully, so they will be in the same plane, ensuring that after assembly, the faces will be level. This is easy-enough to do if you have a drill press and can use a fence to position the workpieces. If you don't have a drill press, you can use a plunge router equipped with an edge guide for this operation. You do need a long bit to penetrate the 1 '4-inch-thick backs.

Lay out the locations of the backs on the base. Apply glue and clamp the backs in place. With a wet rag. wipe off any glue squeeze-out lx-fore it sets.

4. Make the clamp blocks. Start with two blocks of straight-grained hardwood, cut to the dimensions specified by the Gutting list.The basic cuts can be made on the table saw. To do so, you must attach an auxiliary facing to the miter gauge. The facing should extend beyond the blade, regardless of which miter slot the gauge is placed in.

Make the cuts, as shown in the drawing Making Clamp Blocks. To avoid confusion as you work, it's a good idea to


Clamp block




A Va"








CLAMP LAYOUT #6X1" panhead screw


CLAMP LAYOUT #6X1" panhead screw







Miter gauge auxiliary facing

I. Make the shoulder cut with the miter gauge in the left-hand slot. Clamp the workpiece to the miter gauge facing.

Miter gauge auxiliary facing

Miter gauge auxiliary facing

3. Make the top cut with the blade tilted and the miter gauge in the right-hand slot. Clamp the work-piece to the miter gauge facing.


Miter gauge auxiliary facing

2. Make the base cut with the blade tilted and the miter gauge in the left-hand slot. Align the block so the cut intersects the end of the shoulder cut. Clamp the workpiece to the miter gauge facing.

Alignment screw

H" hole cor bolt )Ya"

Alignment screw

H" hole cor bolt )Ya"

Sand flat on tip of jaw.


I. Rout a groove to rough out the T-slot. Use a straight bit whose diameter matches the bolt's shank diameter.

urn mi —

..¿3T--J. :

2. To cap the T, use a keyhole bit or special v T-slot bit.

W keyhole bit

3. Insert the T-bolt in the completed slot.

sketch the shape of the finished block on each workpiccc. Pay attention to the grain direction. The blocks are small, so clamp the workpiccc to the miter-gauge facing when making a cut.

Two of the cuts are made with the blade tilted 5 degrees. Some table saws tilt the arbor to the left, others to the right. I think it's a good idea to keep the workpiccc close to the miter gauge itself, rather than hung out on the far side of the blade. So switch the gauge from one slot to the other, as appropriate, to accomplish this.

Set up the saw from the shoulder cut. and make it on both workpicces.Then make the base cuts, and finally the top cuts.

Finish shaping the clamp blocks by sanding or filing a narrow flat at the jaw's tip. Then round-over die exposed edges with sandpaper or a file.

5. Drill the assembly holes. The clamp blocks are mounted to the fence base with Vinch carriage bolts. Left at that, the blocks would easily twist out of position, which would be pretty annoying when you are trying to adjust the fence position on the tabletop. So each block has a small screw protruding from the top. The screw head extends into a mating hole on the base, keeping the block from twisting.

Bore the Vinch holes through each block, as shown in the drawing Making Clamp Blocks. Bore matching holes through the fence base.

Drill pilot holes for the alignment screws, then drive a panhead screw into each block, as shown in the drawing. Leave the head protruding about inch.

To locate the hole positions in the base, mount the blocks on the base with the bolts and plastic wing knobs, line them up, and tighten the wing knobs enough to mark the base with the screw heads. Remove the blocks, and drill stopped holes for the screw heads.

6. Rout the T-slots. These slots, and the special bolts that fit in them, are what allow the fence faces to be adjusted in two planes (parallel to the base axis and perpendicular to the base axis). The bolts can be either T-slot bolts, purchased from a woodworking supply outlet, or common toilet bolts, purchased at the local hardware store. I used the toilet bolts.

The slots can be routed with either a keyhole bit or a T-slot bit. In either case, make sure the bit profile matches the bolt. I used a '/2-inch keyhole bit.

Both keyhole and T-slot bits have a slender neck between the shank and the cutter. The neck is frail and breaks easily if you feed the work too aggressively. A good approach is to rough out the slot by routing a groove the size of the bolt shank with a straight bit. Then when you make the pass with the T-slot or keyhole bit, it is making a much lighter cut, alleviating the stress on the neck.

Make the cuts on a router table, and center the slots on the workpicccs. The slots in the fences I've made are stopped on one end (the one closest to die bit), as shown in the drawings.They do have to be open at one end so you can fit the IxjIi heads in. A keyhole bit will allow you to make stopped slots because it is a plunge-cutting bit. With its tail end resting on the tabletop, hold the workpiece's leading end above the bit. Plunge it onto the bit. and feed in the correct direction, routing through to the end.

T-slot bits generally are not plunge-cutting bits.To avoid having to make a climb cut, which can be dicey, you can rout the slots from end to end.

7. Apply plastic laminate to the faces. Prepare the plywood faces by ripping and crosscutting them to clean and square up the edges.Trim the pieces of laminate to the dimensions specified by the Cutting List, which will make them about 1 inch longer and wider than the plywood faces.

Apply contact cement to the laminate and the faces, and let the cement dry. Carefully apply the laminate so there's some overhang on all edges.With a router fitted with a flush-trimming bit, trim the laminate.

Finally cut the 45-degrce bevel across one end of each face.

Flush-trim the fence faces if they overhang the base. To do this, clamp the assembled fence in a vise, as shown. Set the router on the faces, with the bit's pilot bearing riding on the fence base. Rout from one end of the fence to the other.

Shim a face to get it properly aligned. Tape is good for this purpose, since it won't fall off the fence if you make o ther adjustments during use. Apply a strip—or if necessary, several strips atop one another—right where it needs to be to force the face into alignment.

8. Assemble the fence. The front of the base/back unit must be square to the bottom. Check this with an accurate square before bolting the faces in place. If necessary, square these surfaces to each other on a jointer.

Now insert two toilet bolts into the slot in each face, and mount the faces on the fence.Tighten the plastic knobs to scat the faces firmly against the base/back unit. Bolt the damps in place with •i1/«-inch-long carriage bolts with pbistic wing knobs.

9. Fine-tune the fence. T*his is a matter of setting the fence on the router table top. clamping it down, and doing whatever it takes to ensure that the faces are flush and parallel to each other and are square to the tabletop.

Deal with the scam between the fence and the tabletop ftrst.The faces should touch the tabletop.

• If there's a gap of % inch or less between the faces and the tabletop. disassemble the fence and joint the base as necessary to eliminate the gap.

• If there's a gap over % inch between the faces and the tabletop. you just might be better off making new faces. You need to be wary of jointing the base too thin. But you must use your own judgment as to what constitutes "too thin."

• If the faces overhang the base, use a flush-trimming bit to rout them flush with the base's bottom surface. Don't do this on your jointer; the plastic laminate and the glues in the plywood will be too hard on the knives.

Now that you have a tight fit between fence faces and tabletop, address the other alignment concerns. Hold a long straightedge on the faces, checking their flatness from top to bottom, diagonally from comer to corner.

• If one or both faces are humped or hollow, toss the fence and make a new one that's really flat.

• If both faces are flat but out of alignment with each other, use shims to bring them into alignment. Strips of tape applied to the face backs are good.

Now use a square to check that the faces are square to the tabletop.

1 Minor discrepancies can be corrected with shims. Major discrepancies should be corrected by disassembling the fence and jointing or rcjointing the base/back unit.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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