Hardware

4 adjustable glides; #AC-50 from Reid Tool Supply Co. (800-253-0421)

*Including tenons dimensions specified by the Cutting List. Re-rip and crosscut remnants to form the runners and cleats.

2. Rout the mortises in the legs. Take the details of mortise sizes and locations from the drawing Leg ami Kail Joinery, and lay out the four legs. Note that all the mortises are % inch wide. The mortises for the side rails are offset 'A inch from the inside edge, while those for the front and back rails are offset 'A inch from the outside edge.

I routed all these mortises using a plunge router and the Mortising Jig on page 124. Most of the mortises are 2'/2 inches long. Set up the jig and do these mortises. Then reset the jig for the shorter mortises and do them.

3. Bore the holes for the adjusters. The adjustable glides enable you to level the router tabic on an uneven floor. But they also allow you to raise the entire table an inch or so. The glides themselves have ^6-inch-diameter shanks and are threaded into T-nuts. You need to drill A M-ineh-diameter X 1 '/2-inch pilots for the T-nuts and adjuster shanks in the center of each leg's foot end.

These holes can be drilled on the drill press, but the job can also be done using the plunge router and the mortising jig. You've got the jig set up and the correct bit in the router. Give it a try.

4. Round-over the exposed arris of each leg.

Use a H-inch roundover bit.This would be easy on a router table (but since you arc building a router table, it just may be that you don't have one).

To do the job with a hand held router, dog a leg to the workbench, capturing the ends of the leg, so you can make

To bore the adjuster holes on the mortising jig, set up the jig's workrest for routing end mortises. Set up the router's edge guide to center the holes, and position the stops to prevent the router from moving laterally. One by one. clamp the legs in the jig and plunge-bore the holes.

Front rail

Lower front rail leg and rail joinery

FRONT LEG

Back rails

Mortises are all W wide and 1" deep.

Tenons are H" thick and 1" long. Shoulder is V«" wide all around.

BACK LEG

'/2"-deep rabbets

Round-over one edge of each leg. Attach a chunk of the leg stock to the router baseplate with carpet tape. The router will then be supported squarely by the leg and the scrap, making it easy to perform the operation accurately.

an end-to-end pass without interference. Round-over only one edge of each leg.

5. Cut the tenons on the rails. While the height of the tenons varies somewhat, they are consistently sized, with a length of 1 inch and a 14-inch-wide shoulder all Hound. Assuming the rail stock was milled to a consistent and accurate ?*-inch thickness, you only have to form the shoulder properly and the tenon size will be correct.

Here's anodier job that could be done quickly on a router table, if you had one. If you do have access to a router table, nuke a tenoning sled (see the chapter "Sleds" on page 246) and rout the tenons on the ends of the rails.

Otherwise, cut the tenons on the table saw, using a table-saw tenoning jig.

Round the edges of each tenon with a file, and test how cadi tenon fits its mortise.

6. Rabbet the rails. The upper back rail (which is rally about mid-level) is rabbeted along its inner edges to accommodate and/or support the cabinets. (See the drawing Leg and Rail Joinery.) The rabbets are cut lA inch deep into the inner lace of the rail and are inch wide, measured from the edges.

Cut the rabbets on the table saw. Or rout them with a hand-held router. Tape a support block to the router baseplate to help steady the machine during the operation, as you did in rounding-ovcr the legs.

7. Assemble the side frames. Apply glue to the mortises and tenons and join the parts. As you clamp these assemblies, check them with a square, and measure diagonally from head to foot to ensure that they are square. And make sure they are flat, too.

8. Drive the inserts for the tahletop hinge bolts.

The tahletop mounting—in cither the lift-top or fixed-top configuration—hits bolts that penetrate the legs and turn into threaded insens installed in the legs. In the lift-top configuration, the shank holes and inserts arc in the back legs only. In the fixed-top form, all four legs must be drilled.

While it would be easy to drill these holes before assembly, the holes penetrate the top rail tenons, so you have to wait until after the side frames are glued up to makefile holes. The assembled side frames are awkward to position on the drill press, but this is the best way to drill the holes. The holes should be perpendicular to the leg axis.

At each spot, drill the ^inch-diameter, /Winch-deep pilot for the insert. Then switch bits and drill the 1 i-inch-diamcter shank hole on the same axis. Drive the inserts.

9- Finish assembling the stand. Apply glue to the mortises and tenons, and join the front and back rails to the side frame assemblies. If the joinery cuts were done accurately. the unit should come together square and true, but measure diagonals and check with a square to be sure.

When the glue has set and the clamps are off the stand, install the runners and cleats. Glue the runner to the rails, but not the legs.You can drive two or three drywall screws through each runner or cleat into the rails.

10. InstaU the adjusters. Upend the stand and drive a T-nut into each leg. Turn the adjustable glides into the T-nuts.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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