Making the

Tedswoodworking Plans

Ted's Woodworking Plans

Get Instant Access

The jig consists of a base and a block. You need to make a different block for each different diameter of dowel you want to rout. You use the same base for all the blocks. To change from one size to another, just undo the fasteners that secure the block on the base, and switch blocks.

1. Pick the hole sizes. As I said, there are three holes in the block. Two are stone simple to size.The outfeed bote must Ik* the same diameter as the dowel you want to produce. The bit hole is no more than a lA6 bigger in diameter than the bit you will use.

The third hole is the infeed hole. Its diameter must match the diagonal measurement of the square dowel blank. For example, if you want to rout a V2-inch-diametcr dowel, you'd cut a blank that's Vz inch square (and maybe a




Cutting List

Part Qty. Dimensions


Block* 1 1'A* x 3" x 6"


Base 1 Yf x 3" x 36"f

2 flathead stove bolts. x 2"

2 washers. 'A" I.D.

2 wing nuts. 'A"

'Cut one such block for each different diameter of dowel you wish to rout.

\Alter the base length as necessary to fit your router table.

skosh over that). But you wouldn't be able to force that square slick into a '/^Inch-diameter hole. And that's because, measured on the diagonal from corner to corner, it's H inch across. So the infeed hole must match the diagonal measurement of the blank.

Refer to the "Dowel Blank/Feed Hole Sizing" chart on page 100 to determine how big the infeed and outfeed holes should be.

2. Cut the parts. The fixture consists of a hardwood block, which has the three holes, and a plywood base, which positions and secures the block on the router lablc. While you can use most any wood, hard or soft, for the block, hardwood will be more durable in the long run.

I'd suggest making several blocks right from the get-go. so you can make more than one size of dowel. Start with a 6/4 (six-quarter) hardwood board about 18 inches long. Flatten one face on the jointer, square an edge to that face, and plane the board to the thickness specified by the Cutting List. Then crosscut the board into three blocks, each about 6 inches long.

For the plywood base, measure the width of your router table top (from side to side). Cut the plywood the I same width a.s the blocks, and crosscut it to match the I router table width.

3. Drill the feed holes. The two holes must be bored I on the same axis, as shown in the drawing Dowel-Making I Fixture Ixtyouts. It 's important to drill these holes before the bit hole so that ihe bit isn'i deflected by the bit hole.

By all means, drill the hole on the drill press. Set up the I

Drilling two holes on the same axis is easy with the correct setup. Use a fence on the drill press to center the workpiece under the bit. Crank up the table as close to the bit as you can before starting to drill; you need to use as much stroke as your drill press has to bore a 3-inch-deep hole. Butt a stop block against the end of the workpiece, and clamp it to the fence. Drill the infeed segment of the hole first, boring about I V2 inches deep. To change bits, remove the work from the drill press. The stop block and fence will enable you return it to exactly the same position for continuing the hole with the smaller-diameter bit.






_ . BOTTOM VIEW __ v

! >

m- i'/v

!/4"-dia. hole for mounting bolt


° ö

3 —



■ 1



Bit hole


Infeed hole



Outfeed hole




Countersunk XA"-dia. hole for mounting bolt


table with a fcncc and stop block to position the work-piece. Drill the larger-diameter hole first, boring about 1 Vz inches deep.Then switch bits and finish the hole with the smaller-diameter bit, boring the rest of the way through the block.Thc fence and stop block allow you to move the wortcpiece out of the way when you change bits, yet ensure that you can return it to exactly the same position.That is essential if the two holes are to share the same axis.

4. Select a bit and bore the bit hole. You need to select the bit now. since it must fit the bit hole in the block almost without clearance.

You can use a large-diameter core-box (or roundnose) bit. a bottom-cleaning bit. a mortising bit. or a dish cutter.

The intersection of the fixture's three holes can be seen here. The bit hole should just break into the outfeed hole. You don't need to drill any deeper than this.


I've used them all, and I haven't discerned much difference in the finished product, regardless of the bit used. I'd suggest you go with whichever of these bits you have.

The bit hole is a stopped hole, as you can see From the drawing. It is the same diameter as the bit you will use. Position the hole as shown in the drawing, and bore just deep enough to break through the wall of the outfeed hole.

5. Mount the block on the base. Lay out the block position on the base, and transfer the location of the block's bit hole to the base. At that spot, bore an oversized hole so the bit can extend through the base into the block.

Drill mounting-bolt holes, as shown in the layout drawing, in both the block and the base. Countersink the holes in the base. Insert flathead stove bolts through the base, fit the block over them, add washers, and then thread a wing nut onto each bolt.

Was this article helpful?

0 0
The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing

The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing

Wood finishing can be tricky and after spending hours on building your project you want to be sure that you get the best outcome possible. In The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing you will learn how to get beautiful, professional results no matter what your project is, even if you have never tried your hand at wood finishing before. You will learn about every step in the wood finishing process from a professional wood finisher with years of experience.

Get My Free Ebook

Post a comment