Making the

Tedswoodworking Plans

16.000 Woodworking Plans by Ted McGrath

Get Instant Access

The doweling jig is a mixed-media creation. I used plastic for several of the parts. The clear plastic used for the template lets you see the work, which makes setup much easier. The plastic adjuster plates can be threaded, so you don't have to fiddle withT-nuts or inserts.

Overall, I think the plastic works. It is the right stuff for this application, and it looks slick. You can work the stuff with your woodworking tools. The appendix has general information on buying and working the plastics that are suitable for this jig.

1. Make the body. I made the jig body by laminating two layers of V^-inch Baltic Birch plywood, which add up to a thickness just under 1 Vi inchcs.This makes Um unit more stable than if 1 had used a solid wood constrw tion. Cut and glue-laminate plywood for the face, base, am top. then trim them to the dimensions specified by tbe Cutting last.

Glue up the parts, as indicated by the End View of tlx Plan Views drawings. Check the assembly carefully as yoi clamp it to ensure that it is square. After the glue sets remove the clamps and scrape off any squeeze-out. Squaf the ends, and sand the lop smooth and square to the facc.

Lay out and rout the dadoes for the workpiece sto next. Ideally, you should do this on a router table, but yoi can use a router equipped with an edge guide. You need lb stop to be equidistant from the center of the jig, regardlcs of which end it is on, so you must position the dadoes it ensure that it will be.

Finally, lay out and drill the holes for mounting tbi workpiece stop and the toggle clamp. Do a few preliminaf holes now. then add others as dictated by the work sitm tions that come up.

DOWELING JIG PLAN VIEWS

END VIEW

De-Sta-

Toggle clamp

FRONT VIEW

TOP VIEW

Template adjuster

De-Sta-

W clear acrylic

FRONT VIEW

END VIEW

\Adjustable workpiece stop

Toggle clamp

\Adjustable workpiece stop

Cutting List

Part

Qty. Dimensions Material

Face

1

1 i*" x 9M x 16" Baltic Birch plywood

1 Base/Tap

2

1W x 3" x 16" Baltic Birch plywood

Stop block

1

I"x254"x3" Hardwood

Mounting pad

1

YT x 1x 2fc" Baltic Birch plywood

Template

1

W x 6" x 16" Clear acrylic

Adjuster plate

1

fc" x2K"xl6" Plastic*

Stop plate

1

W x 1W x Plastic"

'Acrylic, polycarbonate, and phenolic are all suitable for this application.

Hardware

Threaded rod, '/4M-20 X 12" 3 hex nuts, ¡¿"-20

3 plastic knobs, Ya" dia. with !4"-20 insert; item #DK-42 from Reid Tool Supply Co. (800-253-0421)

3 compression springs, V«" I.D. x I" long 8 panhead screws. #8x1"

2 carriage bolts. K"-20 x 3" 2 flat washers, Va" I.D. 2 wing nuts, ^"-20 Toggle clamp, De-Sta-Co #TC-225-U

4 panhead screws, #8 x Ya"

TEMPLATE LAYOUT

I Mounting screw slot; permits adjustment of template position

Template alignment line

Centerline of template holes

Lines scored into acrylic

I Mounting screw slot; permits adjustment of template position

Template alignment line

Centerline of template holes

2. Cut and lay out the template. Clear acrylic is the best material for the template. You can sec through it to help yourself align workpicccs. You can etch alignment lines in it with a scratch awl or a utility knife. And it looks sharp, kinda high-tech. Cut the template blank to size on the table saw.

Lay out the lines shown in the Template Layout drawing right on the masking paper that protects the acrylic. Precision here is vital.The alignment line and the centerline must be parallel, the crosshairs for the holes evenly spaced. With a scratch awl or utility knife, score die lines, cutting right through the masking paper and etching the plastic. Also mark the locations of the mounting-screw slots.

Lines scored into acrylic

3. Bore the holes. Set up your drill press with I fence to do this, and take the time to get that first hole perfectly aligned under the bit before boring it.

To ensure that the holes are evenly spaced, make three spacers. Mill a strip of /»-inch stock, then crosscut it into three pieces. Line up the template blank under the drill bit, tight against the fence. Butt the three spacers against the blank, and clamp a stop block against the outside one. Drill the first hole in the blank. Remove one spacer, and slide the blank over against the remaining two. Drill the second hole Remove another spacer, and again slide the blank over. Drfll the third hole. Remove the last spacer, and slide the blank over against the stop block. Drill the fourth hole.

Lines etched into the template help you set up and use the jig. Because they are scored into the surface, they can't be worn or scuffed off. Use a square and a utility knife to scribe the lines, as shown, cutting right through the protective masking paper.

Boring the template holes should be done on the drill press, using a fence and spacer blocks to eliminate variables in placement of the holes. The fence ensures that ail the holes will be an equal distance from the template edge. The blocks, seen in front, position the template in relation to the stop block.

ADJUSTER DETAILS

TEMPLATE ADJUSTER PLATE 4

H" phenolic

Drill 'HV-dia. hole and tap for VC-20 thread.

Drill 'HV-dia. hole and tap for VC-20 thread.

Drill mounting-screw holes. 16"

ADJUSTABLE WORKPIECE STOP

Drill '^"-dia. hole, and r tap for ¡¿"-20 thread. —,

W mounting-bolt hole ifc"

3"

2VC-

W phenolic

1" hardwood

U-ft"

W phenolic

1" hardwood

Drill mounting-screw holes.

Drill mounting-screw holes.

ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY (typ.)

Threaded hole VC-20 threaded rod in phenolic plate ^-(length varies)

uiumii wvwww

Was this article helpful?

0 0
A Newbies Guide To Wood Working

A Newbies Guide To Wood Working

Wonder No Longer About Things Like Designs, Tools And Safety. These Problems Among Others Will Be Covered In This E-Book. You Will Be Creating Great Wooden Works Of Art In Very Little Time At All! For The Beginning Woodworker, The Construction of Handcrafted Wood Creations Can Be a Daunting And Overwhelming Experience. Well, Not Anymore!

Get My Free Ebook


Post a comment