Making the Router Mounting Board

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The mounting board shown is sized to accommodate the biggest Elu or DeWalt plunge router. It is laid out with the bit axis 3-Vk inches from the top edge.The adjustment slots provide just over 4 inches of vertical travel. If mounted under a 1 '/¿-inch-thick worktable, the bit axis ranges roughly from ^ inches below the table surface to 3-plus inches above the table surface. See the drawing Vertical Range.

You may need or want to alter some of the dimensions to accommodate a different router or a thicker worktable. (I wouldn't mount this fixture to anything less than 1 Vi inches thick.) For a 2-inch-thick worktop, for example, add b inch to the mounting board length, and add the space between the slots and the bit opening.That is. lay out the slots by measuring up from the bottom of the board, as shown in the drawing Router Mounting Board Layout, and lay out the bit opening by measuring down from the top. The extra length will fall where it should.

1. Cut the plywood. like the chassis sides and bearing plate, the router mounting board is made from two pieces of 1 .•-inch Apple Ply plywood, laminated together. Cut the pieces roughly to the dimensions specified by the Cutting list.

2. Cut the recess for the router. Since the recess's depth equals the thickness of one plywood is easiest to cut the opening before laminating the mounting board.

Lay out the ccnterpoint of the bit opening. Center the router over the mark, and scribe around the base. Cut the opening. For a shape like that of the Elu and DeWalt routers, rout the straight section, using a clamped-on fence to guide the router.Then set up the router with a trammel, and rout the arc from one end of the straight groove to the other.

3. Laminate the plies. With the opening for the router completed, apply glue to the faces of the two panels and clamp them together.

When the glue has cured, trim the mounting board to bring it to its final dimensions and to square it.

4. Rout the adjustment slots. This can be done with a plunge router equipped with an edge guide and a Vi6-inch straight bit. Lay out the slots and rout them




Axis of bit

Axis of bit

Axis of bit

- Worktop lV

- Worktop lV

Axis of bit



5. Make and install the vertical-adjustment plate. On Hob's original, this plate is '^-inch-thick aluminum. Tltc choice of that material seems to have been a function of serendipity. For the job it performs, the plate could just as easily be made of 16-gaugc steel, Vs-inch or '/2-inch plywood, or even phenolic, if you have that. I did have some '/»-inch phenolic, so I used that on the slot mortiser shown in the photos.

If you use plywood or phenolic, rout the slot on the router table. If you use metal, drill a vWinch-diameter hole, then cut into the hole with a hacksaw, forming the slot. Cut the plate to size. Drill the holes for mounting screws. File-any rough or sharp edges, as necessary. Attach the plate to the bottom of the mounting plate so the threaded rod fits into the slot.

6. Install the router. Remove the router's baseplate Set it into the recess in the mounting board, and use it as a pattern to drill holes for the baseplate-mounting screws. Countersink the holes.Thcn mount the router on the board.

Since the router operates in a horizontal position, the return springs can be a nuisance. We followed Bob's lead in removing them.

If the router you use on the mortiser has a spring-loaded plunge lock,you have a decision to makc.To Bob, the spring-loaded plunge lock on his Flu was a nuisance, so he disabled it. But he was using his mortiser for mortising only. If you want your slot mortiser to double as a horizontal router table, you will need to use the plunge lock to set the bit extension. Thus, you probably won't want to disable even a spring-loaded plunge lock.

II' you decide to remove the plunge springs and die plunge lock, check the parts diagram for your router to figure out how to go about it. Removing these parts doesn't mean that you can no longer use your router separate from this fixture. The parts usually are as simple to replace as they arc to remove.

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