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Forget that miter gauge and its nuisance slot! Use one of these sleds instead.

When you build (or buy) a router table, the tendency is to think you'll use your table saw's miter gauge on it. "Whenever I have to make a cut across the end grain." you think,"I can set the work in the miter gauge and guide the cut with that. Besides, I already have it."

The miter gauge is a table saw accessory. Leave it on the table saw. It isn't suited for router table work.

What you do need is a sled or two. What a sled does that a miter gauge doesn't is back up the work, preventing tear-out as the cutter exits the workpiecc.A sled doesn't require a slot in the tabletop to guide it. Some sleds ride along the fence; others have a shoe that rides along the edge of the tabletop.

Following are plans for several different pushers or sleds that belong with your router table.

Pusher the scrap bin looking for juussst the right stick. The other two are spent at the band saw. But I wanted this pusher to do a little more than a push stick docs.

And clearly, this is a more elaborate pusher.

• I lsing the notch in the toe. you can feed stock into the saw or router bit.

• Using the heel to hook the work puts the sole of the pusher flat on the workpiece. That way you can apply some downward force at the same time you arc feeding it forward.This is a definite plus on the router table.

• Using the V-groove in the sole allows you to hold the work down, but also force it against the fence as you feed it. To do this, you tilt the pusher and catch the edge of the work in the groove. The heel hooks the end of the work. This is the most useful aspect of the pusher on the router tabic, especially when shaping the edges of relatively narrow sticks.

Looks like a handsaw handle, doesn't it? It should, since I traced around the most comfortable saw handle 1 could find to start the pattern for this pusher. In making it. I wanted something a little different from the usual scrap-wood push slick.

The typical table-saw push stick takes about five minutes to make, three of which arc spent rummaging through

Given the versatility of the pusher. I wanted it to fed good in the hand, to feel natural to a woodworker. I wanted it to be used, alter all. So the saw-handle grip is perfect. Make the thing from some pretty wood—you'll need more than a small scrap, I'm afraid—and it'll look just right in your shop.

pusher layout

Making the Pusher

1 wanted to make this a router project (rather than a hand saw project). I also wanted to make it easy to make duplicates. So I first made a template, then knocked out several pushers from the template.

1. Make the template. Enlarge the pattern shown in Pusher Layout. Or trace a saw handle and extend lines from the handle to connect it to the body layout taken from the plan.

Lay out the pattern on a piece of hardhoard or '/«-inch plywood. Cut it on the hand saw or with a saber saw. To cut the handle opening, drill holes to form the radii at each end. then cut out the waste between them with the saber saw. Sand and/or file the edges smooth and fair.

Note: What I found, after making a prototype pusher, is that pushing on the router table is a slightly different action than sawing. If you merely duplicate the handle position from the won't be right. Instead, rotate the handle up about 20 degrees.

2. Rout out the pusher. First off, select a nice piece of hardwood for this tool. Stick the template to the stock with carpet tape. Set this workpicce on an expendable piece of plywood or hardboard (to protect your workbench), and clamp it to the workbench. I located the clamps on the body and routed the handle, then shifted the clamps so I could rout out the rest of the pusher.

Use a plunge router; a '/4-inch spiral upcut bit if you

PUSHER Cutting List

Part Qty. Dimensions Material

Pusher I I"x8"xl6" Hardwood

73 O c have a spiral upcut. a regular '/»-inch bit if you don't; and a ^ 5/t<.-inch-O.D. guide bushing. Rout around and around the —j template, cutting incrementally deeper on each circuit. You , can keep the bit cutting cooler if you stop and vacuum the jy* chips from the cut after every circuit or two.

3. Rout the V-groove. Do this on the router table j using a V-grooving bit. and guide the cut with the fence.

The groove is stopped. Measure 11 inches from the bit, and put a piece of masking tape on the tabletop. Rout until the toe of the pusher reaches the tape, then lift the workpicce up off the bit.

4. Glue on the heel and notch the toe. The heel is a Vi X 1-inch bit of the working stock. Glue it in place.

Then notch the toe, as showrn in the drawing, using a back saw or on the band saw.

5. Round-over the edges. The final touches are to radius all the edges. I used a Vifrinch roundover bit in a table-mounted router for this.Thcn sand the edges and faces.

Using the Pusher

This is not complcx. If you've used a push stick, you can use this pusher.

I was going to say that it doesn't take a lot of practice, but in a way it does. Using a pusher on a table saw is pretty much second nature for most woodworkers, but that's not so on tlie router table. One reason is that you don't channel

With a V-groove in its sole, this pusher is perfect for router table work. Tilt the pusher so the edge of the work nestles into the groove. The heel hooks the end and allows you to feed the work while simultane ously holding it down on the tabletop and in against the fence.


the work between the bit and the fence on a router table. If you just push the end of the stock, it tends to come away from the fence and thus away from the bit.

And that 's where this pusher proves its worth. With that V-groove, you can apply the forces needed to keep the work on the tabletop, against the fence and bit. and moving forward, all while keeping your fingers well clear of danger.

What the pusher will not do is provide backup for the work. It doesn't prevent tear-out. For that you need either the push-block sled or the miter sled.

Push-Block Sled

A big. thick block fitted with a handgrip is first-rate for feeding work across a cutter in conjunction with the fence. It has mass, so it is stable.



Qty. Dimensions


Base plies

2 X 6" x 12"



1 r x 4%" x 5H"



2 roundhead wood screws, #10 x

I square = W





It's a serious block of wood, but the hand grip turns it into a router table sled. Backing up an end-grain cut, it both feeds the work, keeping it square to the fence, and backs it up. preventing tear-out.

This push-block sled provides pood backup, so you won't get tear-out in the workpiecc. Because of the orientation of the handgrip, you actually have two edges you can use. For cuts where the work is on end. flat against the fcnce.I tend to use the short edge. When the work is flat on the tablctop and 1 want the sled to help keep it square to the fence. I use the long edge.

Because it is routinely nibbled by whatever cutters you use. this sled gets chewed up. When tear-out starts occurring in the work, it's time to freshen up the sled. Simply saw off die damaged area on the table saw, exposing a fresh, square surface. Over time, of course, this prunes the sled so small it's useless. When it does, make another!

Making the Push-Block Sled

Making the handgrip is the time-consuming part of this project. But that's the part that, over time, gets transferred from one base to another as the bases get chewed up in the course of your work. Spend some time on that grip so that it fits your hand comfortably.

1. Make the base. Cut two pieces of - »-inch plywood to the dimensions specified by the Push-Block Sled Cutting list. Glue diem together face to face.

After the clamps arc off the base, rip and crosscut it to true the edges and to make the corners perfectly square. If the comers aren't square, the workpicccs you guide with it will be out-of-squarc.

I radiuscd the right rear corner of the base, cutting it on the band saw. This is a cue to orienting the sled. Even without thinking. I know which corner is the working one.

2. Cut the handgrip. I modeled my handgrip on a bench plane's handgrip. I removed the part from one of my planes to use as a pattern. But because the original wasn't quite big enough for my hand. I stretched it a bit. I also clon-pted the foot to provide places to put a couple of mounting screws. (Because it is useful on all sorts of pushers. I made a hardboard template so I can reproduce thcoutsized grip whenever 1 want.)

You can do what I did. or you can scale up the handgrip pattern. lay out the grip on a block of l-inch-tliick hardwood. Note the grain direction.

Cut out the grip on the hand saw or with a saber saw. Sand the cut edges. A sanding drum chucked in the drill press can smooth the inside radii. With a ' .-inch or '«-inch roundover bit in a table-mounted router, machine the edges of the handgrip.

3. Mount the handgrip. Don't glue the handgrip to the base; you want to be able to move it to a new base someday. Use two «10 X 1 '/2-inch roundhead wood screws, located as shown in the drawing Pusb-Block Sled Plans.

I cocked the handgrip so that pushing on it would advance the sled but would also keep it against the fence.

Using the Push-Block Sled

This sled is always used with the fence, because the fence guides both it and the work. What the sled is doing is pushing the work, keeping it square to the fence, and backing it up so tear-out is prevented.

The angle of the handgrip makes it easy to keep the sled against the fence as it is advanced.

Miter Sled

The miter sled combines the roles of miter gauge, push block, and chip breaker. Because it hooks over the table edge, it doesn't need to be used with the fence, nor docs it require a slot.

When the sled is serving as a chip breaker, the bit cuts through the work and into the sled's fence, so the fence is, in a strong sense, a consumable. It's easy to replace the fence or even to make an entirely new sled, so you can make special sleds for different cuts. The sled shown has been used exclusively for the cope cuts made in conjunction with © cope-and-stick work. It was made of scrap-bin materials.

When making a cope cut, always have the rail firmly clamped to the sled. Feed the sled past the bit, making the cut. When the cut is done, you can simply ease the sled away from the edge of the tabletop and thus ease the work away from the bit. You don't have to pull the work back across the cutter.



1 square =

MITER SLED Cutting List


Qty. Dimensions



1 W x 10"* x 16ft"



1 l'/Vx 1/2" x \6lA"



I 1 '/»" x 3" x 11"*



1 \H x AVs" x SVs"

6 drywall screws. #6x1"

1 toggle clamp. De-Sta-Co #TC-235-U; from Reid Tool Supply Co. (800-253-0421)

4 panhead screws, #14 x 1"

'The base width and fence length must be adjusted, as explained in the text, to the distance between the tabletop edge and the bit on your router table. See text.

A practical feature of the sled is the toggle clamp. It keeps the work firmly in place, while freeing both of your hands to guide the sled. Its position is designed to keep the end of the work from bowing up away from the bit, which would give you an irregular cut.

For coping work, the clamp is almost essential. The reason? In action, the coping bit is self-feeding, and though you arc moving the work counter to the bit's rotation, it will pull the work into lt.The cut that starts square may end up slighdy angled, and the matched joints you cut may not fit tightly. Although you may not believe this, that toggle clamp can clench the work a lot tighter than you can with your hand.

Making the Miter Sled

This is a sled that should lie custom-fitted to your router table.The base in particular must extend from the shoe to the edge of the bit. Naturally, that distance will vary from router tabic to router table.The sled shown is tailored to the Floor-Standing Router Tabic (page 212).

The sled is a consumable, as I noted earlier. The base and shoe will last a long lime, but the fence will need peri

1 square =



Rout to width_ "after assembly.

De-Sta-Co # TC-235-U toggle clamp



Fence odic replacement. It makes sense to avoid gluing the parts togcdicr. I used screws exclusively.

X. Cut the parts. The base, fence, and shoe need to be flat and square. Cut the shoe and fence to the dimensions specified by the Cutting list. On the router table, measure from the tablctop edge to the bit axis, then subtract the radius of the pilot bearing of the bit you intend to use with the sled. Add -H inch to that measurement (the width of the rabbet in the shoe), and rip the base to that Width.Crosscut it to the length specified by the Cutting List.

If you want the miter sled to slip especially easily, apply plastic laminate to the bottom surface of the base.

2. Make and install the shoe. Cut a rabbet for the base in the shoe, as» shown in the drawing Miter Sled Plans. The rabbet is easily cut on the router table or the table saw.

Set the base into the rabbet, and drive three or four dry-wall screws through the base into the shoe. If you've covered one surface of the base with plastic laminate, be sure to orient it down, so it is the surface that rides on the router table.

3. Screw the fence in place. Note that the fence is positioned flush with the working edge of the base and that it overhangs the shoe by about 4'/2 inchcs.Thc extra length just provides fuller support for the workpiecc. Be sure it is at right angles to the shoe. Drive screws through the base into the fence. Keep them back from the edge where the bit might hit them.

Screw the toggle clamp to the fence. The clamp specified is BIG. and because it is, it is strong. You can certainly use a smaller clamp, if you have one.The exact position of the clamp is not important, but the spindle should contact the work quite dose to the working edge of the sled.

4. Cut, shape, and install the handgrip. You can enlarge the pattern included in the drawing,or you can contrive a layout of your own.The exact shape is less important than its fit in your hand; try to achieve the latter.

Cut the handgrip to shape on the band saw or with a saber saw. Round the edges with a roundover bit in a table-mounted muter. Attach the grip to the base by driving two long drywall screws through the base into the grip.

5. Trim the sled to fit the table and application.

For best results, you should limit your use of the sled to a particular application. The sled shown in the photos, for example, is used exclusively for the coping cuts made as a part of cope-and-stick work.

Fit the bit used for that application in the router table, and adjust its elevation for the application. Turn on the router, and make one pass with the sled and a scrap work-piece. Tlic working edge of the base will be trimmed, as will the end of die fence. Both will perfectly match the cutter profile.

The sled is ready for some work.

The cope-and-stick joint is a contemporary joint, used primarily on cabinet doors. One pass along the edge of the rail or stile with the sticking bit cuts a decorative profile and a groove for the door panel. The coping bit machines the ends of the rails, forming a stub tenon and a negative of the decorative profile. The rail end thus can nestle snug against the edge of the stile with its tenon locked in the panel groove.

Using the Miter Sled

Generally speaking, a miter sled is used without the router table fence. The shoe riding along the table's edge guides the sled, and thus the cut.The sled's fence keeps the work-piece in position and provides that all-important backup so the cutter doesn't "emerge" from the workpiecc so much as pass from it into the sled fence. It is when the cutter "emerges" that it blows out splinters.

You can make a general-purpose miter sled, and it can function as your table-saw miter gauge docs.That is, it will hold the workplccc so you can make a cut squarely across the end. But it won't provide cut-specific backup unless you add an auxiliary facing.

But for certain operations. like making cope cuts, you really want a tailored sled. The only difference between a general-purpose sled and a job-specific sled is that the latter is used exclusively with a particular bit. Its working edge has been trimmed with that bit, so it is a zero-clearance edge.

Because my miter sled is used for cope work, it seems appropriate to talk you through the coping operation.YouTI then see the sled's role and the specifics of using it. And I believe you'll be able to move from this particular application to the more general uses a miter sled has.

The cope-and-stick joint is a relatively new one. used primarily in cabinet doors. It is routed with a special bit set. The sticking cut, made on the edges of the frame members, forms a decorative profile—a bead or an ogee, for example—and at the same time plows the panel groove. The coping cut, made across the ends of the rails, forms a negative of the profile and a stub tenon that fits into the panel groove. When the parts are joined, you get a nice-tight joint.

p im

Match the cope bit height against a piece of the sticked stock to establish a rough setting. It is a quick and pretty reliable way to do it. Set the stock beside the bit, as shown, and adjust the bit to align with it. Check the setting with a test cut. but if you're careful, it should be right on.

You usually stick all the workpicces first. The slicking cut is made on the router table, with the work guided by the router table fcnce.Thcn you switch to the cope cutter, and get out your coping sled...

1. Adjust the toggle clamp spindle. The sled has a big toggle clamp. The clamp is important. Coping cutlers have a tendency to pull the workpiece as the last corner clears die bearing. It's the same effect you experience when routing an edge with a handheld router; as you get to the corner, you have to be very careful that you clear the corner without slipping around it. If you are using your fingers to hold die work on the sled, you may not be able to prevent this kind of self-feeding. The clamp can. So use it, and save yourself extra work.

Because stock thickness tends to vary slightly from job to job. you need to adjust the spindle to accommodate die thickness of the current run's stock. If you can move a piece of stock that's clamped in the sled, the spindle isn't set correctly; adjust it.

2. Set the coping bit elevadon. The bit elevation Ls set in two stages. Right now. you need to establish a coarse setting so you can prepare the rest of die setup. Then you'll return to the elevation and fine-tune it using test cuts. For now. just adjust the bit by eye.

3. Make a test cut. Use the sled but not the fence. Lay the test workpiece in the sled without clamping it. Line up the end widi the bearing on the bit. then snap the toggle clamp closed. Make the cut. Finally, with the router switched off.align the sled and the test piece with the bit and check to be sure die piece has been cut to the full depth.

Depending upon how good your eye is, you may get the position just right on the first try. But it is more likely that you'll need to sneak the test workpiece one way or the other to get the position set precisely.

Cutting across end grain is perilous because the cutter usually tears splinters out as it exits the stock. The sled's fence backs up the rail—preventing the tear-out—when the rail's square edge is tucked against it, but that's only half the cuts. For the others, insert a coped piece of scrap into the stick cut before clamping the rail in the sled, as shown here. For the rail to be properly aligned in the sled, make sure the scrap is at least as long as the sled's fence.

Positioning the workpiece in the sled for the first cut helps you understand why you want to use the fence as a positioning stop. You must hunker down at tabletop level, and sight across the end of the test workpiece. Line up its end with the bearing on the bit.

4. Set the router table fence as a stop. To set it, set the sled with die test ait still clamped to it at one end of the tabletop. Bring the fence up to the scrap.Thc fence must be parallel with the front edge of the table or the setup won't be accurate. So slide the sled back and forth, lining up the fence with the end of the scrap. When it is aliened, lock it down.

The best arrangement is to use the Split Fence (sec page 237 for plans) and to remove the outfeed section of die facing.

Hereafter, to position a workpiece in the sled, you merely have to slide it along the sled's fence until it butts against the fence. Flip die toggle to lock it down, and you're ready to cut.

5. Refine your coarse bit-elevation setting. l)o this through test cuts. The cope cutter is designed to cut a profile that locks into the sticking cut. Fit your test cut to one of the stiles. Keep adjusting the bit height until the stile and rail surfaces are flush when assembled. (If the coped piece is proud of the sticked piece, lower the cutter If the sticked piece is higher, raise the bit.)

6. Prepare a coped backup strip. The sled's fence-serves to prevent the cutter from blowing out chips as it eats the good stock. But the sled fence has a square edge, so it can only do this when the flat edge of the rail is against it. For half your cope cuts, you'll have the sticked edge against the sled fence. For these latter cuts, make a coped-edge strip to serve as an auxiliary fence facing.The sticked edge of each rail will nest into the coped edge of the facing.

When the proper bit height is set. clamp a length of l/t-inch plywood to the router table top along the fcncc.Thcn rout a cope along the edge of a strip of the working stock. This is the auxiliary sled fence facing.

7. Trim the rails to finished length. *I*his has to be done before coping their ends. The width of the profile is what you must account for. For example, if you are making an 18-inch-widc door and using 1 ^-inch-wide stiles, the distance between the stiles is WVi inches. But the rails must belong enough to overlap the sticking profile. If it's -Vk inch wide (which seems to be the standard), then you need to add & inch to the length of the rails ( Vh inch for each stile, or twice the width of the profile).The easy way to measure the profile is to stick a rule into the groove and sec how deep it is; the depth of the groove will match the width of the profile.

8. Cope the workpieces. With your setup tested and the rails trimmed to length, you should be ready to cut.

A tenoning sled makes fast work of router table tenon cutting. A large-diameter bottom-cleaning bit can cut a cheek and shoulder for the typical tenon in one pass. A stop on the sled's fence automatically positions the workpiece for the cut, so the shoulder will be square and perfectly aligned all the way around the rail.

As with the sticking cuts, the cope cuts should be completed in one pass. Repeating a pass can enlarge the cut and create a loose fit.

I cope one end of each workpiece. Then I bond the auxiliary facing to the sled with carpet tape and copc the other end.

Tenoning Sled

A slightly different miter-style sled is one used for muting tenons. It's set apart from die cope-and-stick miter sled by-two things—the fence that extends far beyond the base, and the separate workpiece stop. (Okay, it doesn't have any-kind of handle either, but dial's irrelevant.)

The purpose of the fence that extends over and beyond the bit Is to back up the cut and to support a positioning stop. In this instance the cut's contour is as much horizontal as vertical, so you want that section of the fence over the bit.

I always use this sled with the same bit, a 1 '/4-inch mortising bit.The bit-side edge of the sled's base was cut by the bit, so the base edge indicates the edge of the cut. This is useful in lining up work for tenoning.

The stop clamps to the sled fence. You butt the work-piece against the stop and make a pass, which cuts the tenon cheek and shoulder. If the tenon is longer than l]A inches, then you make two passes, one with the work against the stop, one with it pulled back from the stop.

The toggle clamp is a style that closcs when you push forward on the T-h an die.Thus it can serve as a handgrip.

Making the Tenoning Sled

This is another of those scrap-bin projects.'There's more to the hardware than to the wood.

1. Cut the sled and stop parts. The dimensions of the parts are specified by die Cutting list.The width of die sled base must be determined by measuring from the table edge to the bit axis on your router table. To that measurement, add the thickness of the shoe.

In selecting and preparing the hardwood parts, be sure to joint and plane these pieces square and true, with parallel edges and faces.The particular wood you use isn't dial significant. I used poplar.

2. Assemble the base and shoe. Glue and screw the base to the shoe first.

The second assembly step is to trim the base with the bit that will be used with the sled. Fit your tenon-cutting bit in the table's router. Adjust the elevation to the thickness of the base. With the shoe tight against the table's edge, make a pass with the sled, trimming the bit-side edge flush with the bit.

3. Install the fence and clamp. Position the fence-perpendicular to the just-trimmed edge of the base, and screw it to the base and shoe. I drove two screws through the fence into the shoe, two through the base into the

73 O

'A" X 2 V2" T-nut Hex nut carriage bolt



'A" X 2 V2" T-nut Hex nut carriage bolt



Part Qty. Dimensions Material

Shoe I VS x 1" x II Vi" Hardwood

Fence I IV*" x 2y*K x 18" Hardwood

Stop plate I x 3" x SV*" Birch plywood

Stop jaws 2 VC x I" x 3" Hardwood Hardware

12 drywall screws, #6x1"

I toggle clamp. De-Sta-Co #TC-202-TU: from Reid Tool Supply Co. (800-253-0421)

I spindle. De-Sta-Co #TC-215208; from Reid Tool Supply Co.

I plastic knob with ]A" threaded insert; #DK-42 from Reid Tool Supply Co.

'The base width must be adjusted, as explained in the text, to the distance between the tabletop edge and the bit on your router table. See text.


— Trim to fit after assembly.

Position stop on fence to control tenon length.

— Trim to fit after assembly.

Position stop on fence to control tenon length.




#TC-2I 5208 spindle <2 W overall length)


Toggle clamp

Stop jaw

Door Closure Mechanism

Bit cuts into


Bit cuts into


Stop jaw

Toggle clamp fence. (Be sure these screws arc placed where the bit can't contact them.) I didn't glue the fence.on the theory' that I'd need to replace it from time to time. But the whole sled is so economical of materials and so quick to make that if it ever gets too chewed up, I can just replace the whole works.

Mount the toggle clamp 011 the fence. Position it so the spindle will contact the workpicce within x/i to Vi inch of the tenon.

4. Assemble the stop. Drill a clearance hole through one stop jaw for thcTnut. Drive theT-nut into the hole.Turn the carriage bolt into the T-nut. Now glue and screw the stop plate to the two stop jaws. Finally, turn the hex nut and the plastic knob onto the bolt Jam die two together to keep the knob from unthreading.

Using the Tenoning Sled

With the sled and the right bit. tenoning is a snap on the router table. Here's how to do it, step by step.

1. Set up the router table. This is a matter of chucking the appropriate bit in the router and setting the coarse hit elevation.The bit can be a mortising bit. a large-diameter straight bit, or a bottom-cleaning bit.The mortising bit—which is designed for clearing hinge mortises, not mortises for tenons—and the bottom-cleaning bits are designed to clear a broad surface, leaving it clean and smooth. A «might bit is not as well suited design-wise but will be completely adequate.

The bit elevation should be measured from the top surface of the sled's base. Set the bit a skosh under, so you can measure test cuts and creep up on the just-right setting.

2. Liiy out a tenon on a test piece. Use scraps of the working stock for the tests.The single layout line you need is one marking the tenon shoulder. Scribe it around the lest piece.

If at all possible, use one of your mortises (rather than imler) to determine the correct tenon thickness.

3. Set up the sled. lay the test piece in the sled, and align the shoulder line with the bit-side edge of the base.

Snap the toggle clamp closed, clamping die workpiece. (Adjust the spindle as necessary for the clamp to get a tight grip on the work.)

Now set the stop. Place it on the fence, but ted against the end of the workpicce. Tighten its clamp.

Rolling Router Sled

Work and roll is the routine for cutting tenons on the router table. With the workpiece in the tenoning sled, its butt against the stop, make a pass, cutting the broad cheek. Pull the sled back, pop the toggle clamp, roll the workpiece onto its edge, hook the work with the clamp—you can't snap it closed when the work's on edge—and make another pass. Two more quarter-rolls and two more passes complete the tenon.

4. Cut the test tenon. Turn on the router and make a pass, cutting the first cheek and shoulder. Unbutton the clamp and roll the workpiece over. Make a pass, cutting the second cheek and shoulder.

Check the fit of this tenon in your mortise. Raise or lower the bit, as necessary, to refine the fit. Make another test cut and fit it to the mortise.

When you've got the settings right, cut the real work.

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