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Ted's Woodworking Plans

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&"-16 threaded insert; position to fit ismall measure of adjustability, so I could ensure that the router table top would be flush with the saw table.

In addition, the extension wing is attached to each fence rail with a single bolt. To mount the router table top. I used cap bolts inserted through the rail holes and turned into threaded inserts.

To lay out the holes for the five threaded inserts. I clamped some supports to the table saw (after removing the extension wing, of course). Then 1 set the tabletop in place and shimmed it as necessary to line it up and bring it flush with the saw table. Use a straightedge to check this. Fit a pencil through the appropriate holes, and mark on the edge-banding.

3. Install the threaded inserts. Not all threaded inserts arc alike, so check to determine the required size for the pilot hole. Bore the pilot holes, using a drill or a plunge router.

To drive the inserts, use a boll (of the appropriate size) with two nuts jammed together on it as a tool.

Thread the insert onto the bolt, right up to the nuts, (»et the insert started into the wood, and turn the boll with a wrench.The hard part is keeping the bolt perpendicular to the workpiece. When the insert is fully installed, use two wrenches to unjam the nuts, and turn the boll out of the insert.

4. Mount the tabletop on the saw. Set the tabletop back on the temporär)' supports. Insert the bolts and tighten them. Make sure the tabletop is flush with the saw table.

5. Cut out the mounting plate opening. With the tabletop in place, it's an easy matter to cut the opening for the mounting plate, from which the router hangs. Rather than repeal something that's spelled out step by detailed step on page 168,1 recommend you turn to that chapter, "Universal Router Mounting Plate." There you'll learn how to make the plate and attach the router to it. And you'll see how you can use it to guide the cutting of the router port in the tabletop.

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Putting a small bolt through a large hole provides a measure of adjustability. It is pretty difficult to get the threaded inserts positioned in the tabletop edge with absolute precision. So the adjustability factor allows you to move the tabletop slightly to align it perfectly with the saw table.

Create some staging to support the tabletop while you mark the insert locations. A piece of plywood clamped to the underside of the saw's fence rails supported my tabletop just about flush with the saw table. A couple pairs of builder's shims were all I needed to raise the tabletop into perfect position.

6. Accessorize your router table. Unlike die Floor-Standing Router Table on page 212. this one has no compartments or drawers for bits and other necessary stuff. After using the table a few times, I discovered the most time-consuming part of setup was finding the *@!!$ wrench. So I screwed a short strip magnet to the bottom side of the table, just for the wrench.

I also found myself running an extension cord every time 1 wanted to use the router table. So I sprang for the necessary electrical supplies to outfit the table with a switched outlet, as shown in the accompanying feature, "Power to the Router Table" on page 190. I mounted the box on the underside of the table saw. and I bundled the cable with the table saw's power cord so the numl>er of cables snaking across the concrete shop floor is minimized.

Though this rip fence facing is billed as optional. I wouldn't do without it. As it has turned out, 1 use this router tabic a lot. And the table saw rip fence is a real plus. I can set its position quickly, even with one hand otherwise tied up. But the fence wouldn't be- quite so useful without this box-section fence facing.

1. Cut the parts. The unit is simple enough that yon can cut all the parts right off the bat. Joint and thickness] the lumber, then rip and crosscut the parts to the dimensions specified by the Cutting List.

1 used poplar for the fence parts. You could use am hardwood, but in retrospect. I think plywood would be a very good choice. While the tendency might be to use a utility material, you do need to use stable, straight-grained stock so that the fence stays straight and true.

2. Cut the joinery. You could cut the tongues and grooves that join the fence box on the router table, but of course you don't have onc.You can do the job with a handheld router, but frankly, it's easier to do it on the table saw

Cut the grooves first. Set the blade height, and position the fence inch from the blade. Make a first pass on cadi of the four grooves. Reposition the rip fence, and make I second pass on each groove. If necessary, make a third pass to complete the grooves.

The tongues can be formed in much the same fasluoo. Don't change the blade height setting. Reposition the rip fence, as shown in the drawing, to make the shoulder cuts—four on each piece. Then move the fence closer to the blade, and trim off the remaining sliver of waste.

Making and Installing the Rip Fence Facing

It's not pretty, but it is orderly. The router's handles were in the way. They'd jam against the bottom of the tabletop. limiting the depth of cut and preventing me from just lifting the router and plate out of the tabletop. So I removed them. The power cord dangled on the floor and made it hard to sweep up. So I rolled it into a coil and tied it. To lift the router out of the table, I unplug it. The strip magnet holds the collet wrench out of the way but close at hand.

SAWING FENCE JOINERY

CUTTING THE GROOVES

Rip fence facing

Front/back

Rip fence facing

Front/back

1

t

U-»/4

I. Set the blade height. Position the fence, as shown. Make a first pass on each groove.

CUTTING THE TONGUES

2. Move the fence the thickness of the blade to the right. Make a second pass on each groove. If the groove is not yet wide enough, move the fence a second time and make additional passes.

3. The completed, properly dimensioned groove.

Rip fence facing

Top/

bottom j_

Rip fence facing —

Top / bottom

I. Keep the same blade height. But reposition the fence for the shoulder cut. as shown. Make two passes on each edge to define all four tongues.

2. Move the fence closer to the blade to trim off the remaining waste.

3. The completed, properly dimensioned tongue.

73 O

RIP FENCE FACING Cutting List

Part

Qty. Dimensions

Material

Front/Back

2 fc" X 4" X 27"

Hardwood

Top/Bottom

2 X'X2 fcMX27"

Hardwood

End caps

. .. .. . ..V -. ' • •-• /

Hardwood

Hardware

Plastic laminate. 5" x 28" 8 oval-head wood screws, #6 X (for end caps) 4 threaded inserts. !4"-20 4 hex-head bolts, K"-20 X 2'/i"

RIP FENCE FACING EXPLODED VIEW

Threaded insert

Back

Bottom rip fence facing

END VIEW

BISECTION VIEW

BISECTION VIEW

2*" M

f

4'

?

1

—-

k-31/2"

271/2"

The end caps arc rabbeted on all four edges. While this would again be a g<x>d router table operation, it can for this project be a table saw procedure. Set the blade height to % inch, and position the fence lA inch from the blade. Stand the cap on end. Back it up with a good-sized scrap, and push it through the blade with the scrap. Repeat the process to cut the base of all the rabbets on both caps.

To make the shoulder cuts, lower the blade and reposition the fence. Make the cuts with the cap flat on the table saw, feeding the workpiccc with a push stick. To avoid having the saw kick back the dartlike waste strips, position the fence so that the waste will fall to the left of the blade. This means you have the extra step of repositioning the fence after making two cuts on both caps.

3. Cut the bit opening. Fhis is formed by cutting an arc in the bottom board, and a truncated triangle in the front. Fit the two parts together to lay out the cut. Use a saber saw to make the cuts.

4. Assemble the fence box. This is a pretty simple matter. Apply glue to the tongues and grooves, and fit the parts together. Wipe up any glue squcezc-out promptly. Check the assembly with a square as you apply the clamps, to ensure that the box is square. (Don't install the end caps until after the plastic is applied.)

5. Apply the plastic laminate. The purpose of the plastic laminate is to make the face slick, thus making it easier to feed work along the fence. It only needs to be applied to the face. It's a simple job.

Cut the laminate about I inch long and 1 inch wider than the fence face. Apply contact cement to both the laminate and the fence face. Allow the cement to dry. After it is dried, apply the laminate to the fence and burnish it down with a J-roller.With a flush-trimming bit in a router, trim the edges of the laminate. Be sure to nin the trimmer into the bit opening.

6. (optional) Install the end caps. Install these if you plan to use the fence core as a channel for dust collection.

Bore a 1 Vinch-diametcr hole in the ccntcr of one cap. This is the opening for the shop vac hose. Fasten that cap over one end of the fence. Choose the end that suits you. Fasten the solid cap over the other end. It is best not to glue the caps in place. In use, the core of the fence can get impacted with chips, even when a shop vac is drawing through it. so leave yourself this clean-out option. Use screws to secure the caps.

7. Prepare the router fence for mounting. On my table saw, the rip fence has four '/4-inch-diamctcr holes in It. ostensibly for installing a facing. It is a simple matter to install threaded inserts in die back of the router fence, then insert bolts through the rip fence's holes and into the I router fence.

But there's a hitch: The fastener heads will protrude on the side opposite the router fence Thus, to have the router fence permanently attached to the rip fence's right side.you need also to have a facing attached to the left side. *I*hai way, you can countersink or counterbore the fastener heads into the facing.

So when 1 made the router fence. I also made a rip fence facing. For what it's worth, to make the facing, I glue-laminated two pieces of '/¿-inch birch plywood, then applied plastic laminate to one side. (Since the plywood is '/64 inch scant of '/i inch thick, the plastic laminate brings the facing tliickness to exactly 1 inch. As long as I remember to compensate by that 1 inch. I can use the rule etched into the rip fence rails to set the fence.)

To transfer the hole locations from the rip fence to the facing and the router fence, clamp the parts—one at a time, of course—to the rip fence. Then insert a bolt through the hole and tap it with a hammer, denting the wood. At the dents, drill the appropriately sized holes. Drive the threaded inserts. Counterbore the rip facing.

8. Install the router fence. This is largely a matter of driving the bolts that hold the parts together. Bui the face of the router fence should be square to the router table top. After bolting the fence in place, check with a square.

FRONT VIEW

FRONT VIEW

If the fence is out-of-square. loosen the fence and insert shims between the rip fcnce and the router fence. Depending upon how tar out the fence is, a few layers of masking tape may cure the misalignment. Retighten the bolts and rcchcck the fence.

It is a trial-and-crror process. Keep at it until you have the fence square to the tabletop.

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Wood Working 101

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