Tabletop Cutting List

Tedswoodworking Plans

Ted's Woodworking Plans

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Core plies


ys X 235/«" X 36"

Birch plywood

Edge bands


y*" X 1 Vi" X 37w


Edge bands


Y*" X l5/e" X 251/8"


Surface covering


Vie" X 26" X 38"

Plastic laminate

Bottom surface covering


X 26" X 38"


Mounting plate


VtT X 8" X 1 1 Va"

Phenolic plastic



7A" XWi'X 23»-


Hardware (for Attaching Tabletop to Stand)

4 brass threaded inserts. W-20; #E2-I2 from Reid Tool Supply Co. (800-253 0421) 4 hex-head bolts. Y<"-20 X 2Vi

2 bronze bushings. V<" I.D. X W O.D. X 1" long; #0!B-80 from Reid Tool Supply Co.

8 flat washers. V\s" I.D. drywall screws, #6 X 2" drywall screws, #6 X 2Vz"

2 Dzus toggle latches; #DTL-802A from Reid Tool Supply Co. 2 Dzus strikes; #DTL-800-9 from Reid Tool Supply Co.

8 panhead screws. #6xl" (for latches and strikes) I folding lid stay with mounting screws, left-hand mount*

*Buy a stay labeled for installation on the left. Even though it will be installed on the right side of the table, the left-hand stay Is what you want.

router table's many choices. One option is the lift-top configuration.The other is the fixed-top option. One does not preclude the other. The construction difference between the options is two toggle latches or two bolts and threaded inserts. The cost isn't steep, and the work isn't irreversible. Make it a lift top. If you hate it, take off the toggle latches and install the extra two bolts.

Cut the hinge cleats to the dimensions specified by the Cutting List. Shape the ends of the cleats, as shown in the drawing Tabletop Construction and Mounting.

To locate the hinge-pin holes, clamp the hinge cleats to the stand. Insert a scratch awl through the holes in the legs, and mark the centers for the corresponding holes in the hinges. Drill the holes on the drill press.

3. Install the hinges. The best way to position the hinge cleats is to fit them to the stand and tabletop.

begin by bolting the hinge cleats in place. If you opted to bore holes in all four legs, just bolt the cleats to the legs. Be sure to install the bushings, and the flat washers, so the deats arc exactly as they will be in the finished product. If you opted for the lift-top configuration, install the cleats with the hinge bolts, then clamp the free ends to the stand's front legs.

Now set the tabletop on the cleats and align it very carefully. Clamp the cleats to the table. You can crawl around beneath the stand, drilling pilot holes and driving screws, to join the cleats and tabletop. But it is easier to nnthrcad the bolts (and unclamp the cleats from the legs), and move the tabletop to your workbench. Set it with the hinge cleats up, of course. Drill the pilots, drive the screws, ind the hinges will be mounted.

4. Mount the tabletop on the stand. One task remains before bolting the tabletop in place. If you want to be able to lift the tabletop. you have to radius the tops of the back legs. A portable bell sander makes quick work of this detail.

Now set the tabletop in place and install the bolts.

Install the toggle latches next. Determine the position of each by holding the wire loop up and sliding the latch up the leg unUl the loop touches the underside of the top. Hold the latch in that spot while you lift the catch and mark through the screw holes on the leg. Drill pilots and screw the latches in place. Position the strikes and screw them to the underside of the top.

Attach the lid stay. This is attached to the top side rail and the tabletop. The drawing Tabletop Construction and Mounting provides a specific location. You may want to experiment a bit to determine the optimum location for the stay you buy. In any event, be sure you orient the stay so it folds to the front of the table; otherwise, it may collapse inadvertently.

5. Make the mounting plate. After completing and mounting the tabletop. turn to the chapter "Universal Router Mounting Plate" on page 163. In that chapter are detailed directions for making the mounting plate used in this router tabic.

6. Install the mounting plate. Stay with the mounting plate chapter for the directions on cutting the opening in the tabletop for the mounting plate. A couple of slightly different approaches are detailed there. Either one will work.

Mount the tabletop squarely on the stand by setting the tabletop (bottom-side up) on your workbench and up-ending the stand, with the hinges attached, on it This way. you can easily align the stand on the tabletop. Then clamp the hinges to the tabletop, as shown, drill pilot holes, and drive screws through the hinges into the tabletop.

To fit the stay between the top rail of the stand and the hinge, I needed to rout a relief into the hinge. To do this. I made a template of Ji-lnch plywood. I bored two semicircles in the template edge with a Forstner bit, then cut away the waste from between them. I clamped the template to the right-hand hinge and used a template guide and J4-inch straight bit to make the relief cut, as shown.

Where to place the mounting plate is lor you to decide. Here arc my thoughts lor you to weigh as you decide.

The plans, taken from the router table shown in this chapter's photos, have the bit axis 8 inches from the front edge of the tabletop.This is better than the central location that is so prevalent. I'd bet that 75 percent of your router table work involves short, narrow workpieces. (This is a reason that small bench-top router tables are so serviceable.) Locating the router relatively close to die table's edge-makes it easy to access for this 75 percent of your work.

When you have a large panel to rout, step to the rear of the table and address the bit from there. You have a nearly 3<>-inch-widc surface between the back edge and the bit axis with the router offset, which is a work surface that'll support a BIG panel. It's more support than you'll get from a table with the router in the central location.

In other words, the central router location Ls a compromise. a bad compromise. For most of your work, it is too far away from where you have to stand. And when you have a big workpiccc, it's too close to all the edges, preventing the vast tabletop from being used to your advantage in supporting the work.

Put the mounting plate where you will. I recommend the offset location shown in the plans.

7. Apply the finish. Screw the mounting plate to your router, and drop it in place in the tabletop. You've now got a router table you can use. If this was your destination, you've reached it.



Ik-fore you celebrate, break out a can of finish and complete the job.Varnish the exposed wood—the edge banding and the edge inside the cutout for the mounting plate.

Of course, if this Step 7 is but a stop on your journey, you may want to hold off on the finishing step until you've got the fence and cabinets built, then finish them all at the same time.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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