Which baseplate to use? The one that fits your router, of course. But if you have a laminate trimmer. I'd recommend that router for this work. It's light and maneuvcrablc. liither way. large or small, the baseplates are used in the same way.
1. Set up the router. Remove the factory baseplate, and replace it with the flush-trimming baseplate.
Select an appropriate bit. and chuck it in the router. Depending upon the router, you can use a bottom-cleaning bit. a dado-cleanup bit. a dish cutter, or a mortising bit. All of these are designed for shearing the surface at the bit's tip.You can also use a straight bit.
Adjust the cutting depth by bottoming the bit on a sheet of paper. That means your bit will be a few thousandths shy of the working surface. (My dial calipers tell mc that a sheet of typical copier paper is 0.005 inch thick.) This setting will keep the bit from gouging or scuffing a slightly uneven surface, yet allow it to pare the real protrusions. After you trim with this setup, a hit with a sander should bring the surface dead flush.
2. Trim the nonflush stuff. Before switching on the router, take note of the machine's balance. Though these plastic baseplates seem to be pretty well balanced, the general tendency with such baseplates is for the machine to tip onto the bit. My point here is that you need to keep the router upright by pressing down on the baseplate's offset knob. Otherwise, the bit will gouge the workpicce.
With one liand pressing down on the knob, switch on the router. Move the router toward the protrusion.
Depending upon what needs to be trimmed, you may slide the router and baseplate sideways, or you may just swing the router in an arc around the knob. Basically, you want to sweep the protrusions off the workpicce. Don't allow the bit to dwell too long in any one spot.
With a little practice, you'll develop a routine and a feel for die movements that contribute to splintering and tear-out.
Equipped with the flush-trimming baseplate, a laminate trimmer can work places that a piloted flush trimming bit can't reach. That's because the machine rests on the working surface, and its bit pares away any high spots or ridges. Thus, when trimming edge-banding. as shown, it can cut into both inside and outside corners.
To avoid gouging the work, you must hold the router upright by pressing down firmly with one hand at the end of the baseplate extension. Use your other hand to slide the router along the ridge of material to be routed away.
Mortising with a router just got a whole lot easier. This jig sets up quickly, holds the work securely, and ensures that mortises are consistently and accurately sized and positioned.
The biggest single challenge in mortising with a plunge router is holding the workpiece while simultaneously supporting and guiding the router. This jig meets the challenge head-on. It is simple to make, easy to set up. and a snap to use.
The mortise-and-tenon is woodworking's essential frame joint, you know. So if you are going to grow as a woodworker and develop your skills, you have to master the making of the mortise-and-tenon joint.
The basic elements are the mortise, which is a hole— round, square, or rectangular—and the tenon, which is a tongue cut on the end of the joining member to fit the mortise. Once assembled with glue or pegs, the mortise-and-tenon joint resists all four types of stress—tension, compression, shear, and racking. And it does it better than any other type of joint.
The main advantages of the router for mortising include the smoothness of its finished cuts and the accuracy of placement and sizing that's possible. The only disadvantage that comes to mind is the limited reach of the router bit. A narrow, deep mortise—V\ inch wide X l*A inches or more deep, for example—is problematic for a router. The maeliine can do it, but its cutters can't. (Given the strength of modern glues, however, even a shallow mortise makes a strong joint.) A plunge router, a spiral or stniight bit, and an edge guide will handle most of the mortising you'll ever want to do.
To rout a mortise, the first thing you must do is cobblc up a mortising jig to hold the workpiece.
The original version of this jig was conceived and built by Ken Burton, Jr., one of Rodale's woodworking book editors. Ken's jig has that real-world look: It's made of scrap wood, not first-class material. It has lots of extra holes, the reminders of. among other things, stops that have been repositioned. There are layout markings left from projects past.
My duplicate, shown in the photos, is a little different, primarily in the hardware and the quality of the material I used. (We want these jigs to look good as well as work properiy.) The jig does several things. It
• holds one workpiece at a time so handling is minimized;
•holds the workpiece securely so it doesn't move as you rout;
• allows you to switch workpicces quickly, positioning them consistently;
• provides adequate bearing surface, so no cut is compromised by a router tip or wobble;
• enables you to position the cut consistently from mortise to mortise;
• controls the length of the cut.
Best of all. it's casv to make.
MORTISING JIG EXPLODED VIEW
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