Using the

As I mentioned, the template is easier to use than it is to make. Set the fence square; set the router. Then pop the template on the workpiccc, and bore away. Here, step by step, is how to do it.

1. Lay out one side. Layout is primarily a matter of deciding

• How far from die workpiece edges you want the holes to be.

• How far from the top edge the holes should begin.

• How close to the bottom edge they should end.

You might scribe a couple of lines on one of the shelf or cabinet sides to help you set up the template. Beyond that, it's all in the template for all subsequent pieces you work.

2. Set the template fence position. It's easiest if you use the same offset from both front and back edges, lliat way you don't have to work your way through the stack of workpieces twice. If. for example, you were building standard 12-inch-dccp wall cabinets for a kitchen or bath, you might set the offset at I'/z inches.You'd have a line of holes 1 Vz inches from the front edge and another 1 Vi inches from the back edge.

The fence determines where the line of holes will tall on the workpiccc. Measure from the holes to position the fcncc, and tighten the knobs firmly,so the fence won't shift as you move the template from workpiece to workpiccc and slam it into place. And make darn certain the fence is parallel to that centcrlinc. Otherwise, you'll have the holes on a skewed line. And no. that 's not pretty.

3. Clamp the template to the workpiece. The toggle clamps on the fence arc what hold the template on the workpiece. As you set the template on the first work-piece, take the time to adjust the spindles so that the clamps snap closed, and so that when they do, the template and the work are really clamped tightly together.

Usually, 1 like to use check nuts on toggle-clamp spindles because it makes it easy to reposition the spindle. But it's hard to jam them tightly enough to hold a setting over a period of prolonged use. In this application, 1 use hex nuts and tighten them with wrenches

Once the clamp spindles are adjusted and set, give a moment's attention to the position of the template on the work. With the clamps open, insert one of the bolts that serve as indexing pins into the '/4-inch hole. Slide the

With the workpiece overhanging the workbench edge, position the template on it. The template's fence and an indexing bolt dropped through the end hole position the template on the work. Snap the clamps closed to secure the template.

Set the fence parallel to the line of holes. To do this, use two !4«inch bolts and a couple of scraps ripped to the width of the offset. Insert a bolt through each indexing hole, as shown. Set a spacer block against each bolt, then slide the fence against the blocks. Tighten the clamping knobs, and the fence is set parallel to the line of holes.

template down the workpiecc until the holt/pin contacts the work's top edge. Check that the fence is flat against the workpiecc. Both the fence and the holt must l>e against the work to position it.

Snap the toggle clamps closed,

4. Set up the router. Because the template has '/¿•inch holes in it. the router has to be set up with a V^-inch-diameter (O.D.) template guitle.You can use any size bit that will lit into this guide, but the size that's usually used is ' t inch. Clamp the chosen bit in the collet, and install the '/2-inch template guide.

Now set the depth stop on the plunge muter. Set the router on the template, with the guide in a hole. Bottom the bit and lock the plunge mechanism. Drop the stop rod onto the turret, then raise it XA inch (or whatever depth you want the holes to be). Lock the rod and unlock the plunge mechanism. 'Hie router is set.

I think it's worth mentioning that a good router to use with this jig is a plunge router with a trigger switch. Rather than keeping the router running as you move it from position to can turn it on and off, as you would a drill if you were drilling a series of holes. Bosch is the only maker I can think of who makes trigger-switch plunge routers.

5. Plunge-bore the holes. Plug in die router and get to work! Set the router on the template with its guide extending into the template hole. Switch on the router and plunge. Retract the hit and move the router to the next hole.

Tedious? Perhaps. But difficult? Nah.

Any plunge router can produce the holes. Fit the proper bit and guide in the router, and set the depth stop. Boring each pin hole is a matter of dropping the guide into a template hole, turning on the router, then plunging the bit into the work.

6. (optional) Shift the template position to extend the run of holes. If the line of holes must be-longer than 24 inches, just move the template. The indexing pin will ensure that the spacing of holes will remain consistent.

Open the toggle clamps. Pull up the bolt from the indexing hole so you can slide the template down the workpicce. Line up the index hole over the last hole you bored, and push the boll down into the index hole and one into the hole in the workpicce. Nudge the fence tight against the workpicce edge, and close the toggle clamps.

Now keep boring.

Extending the run of support-pin holes is easy. All you do is reposition the template. To align it in rela tion to the already-routed holes, insert a bolt through the template's indexing hole and into the last pin routed in the workpiece, as shown.

7. Switch the template to the back edge of the workpiece. You shift to the back edge by unciamping the template and walking it around to the other side. Move the index pin from one '/i-inch hole to the other. The fence setting remains the same, and the positioning routine remains the same.

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  • marcel
    How far from.the top should uou use a router to make holes fir hanging a shelf?
    3 years ago

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