Compression spring Plastic knob

Hex nut

(length varies)

Use the Slotted Pilot Template on page i to rout the mounting slots.

To dress up the appearance of the template, chamfer the sharp edges on the router table. Then use a cabinet fooper to remove saw marks. Finally, flame-polish those edges til they shine.

4. Make die adjuster plate. Any number of different materials can be used for the adjuster plate. A material that tou can cut threads into is best, which means you can use i ninety of plastics or metals. If you are most comfortable using wood, use threaded inserts. I used vw-inch phenolic.

Cut the plate to size, and lay out the mounting holes ¿ml the holes for the adjusters, as shown in the drawing "template Layout. Bore the holes.

Tap the adjuster holes next. The process is detailed in the section "Cutting Threads" in the appendix.

To enhance the appearance of the jig. if you want it to look spifly, chamfer the edges just enough to soften their sharpness. Use a cabinet scraper to remove saw marks.

5. Make the workpiece stop. This is a wood and plastic assembly that is bolted to the jig body. Begin making it by checking out the layout drawing. Cut the plastic plate and the hardwood block to the dimensions specified by the Cutting List.

Lay out and drill the holes in these parts.The adjuster hole in the plate must be tapped with a ■ »-inch-20 thread. "Buff" the edges of the stop plate, as you did the edges of the template and the adjuster plate, by chamfering the edges and scraping off saw marks.

Screw the stop plate to the stop block.

6. Assemble the jig. This is largely a matter of screwing the various pans and subassemblies to the jig body.

Mount the template and adjuster plate on the jig body with panhead screws. Install the workpiece stop to the face by fitting the stop plate into the dado, then bolting the stop body to the jig body. (The stop must be moved and removed often; you ought to use a wing nut or a studded plastic knob instead of a nut so it doesn't take a wrench to mount and dismount it.)

Now make up the adjuster screws. Cut three pieces of '/t-inch threaded rod, two that are 2x/i inches long for the template adjusters, one that is 4Vi inches long for the work-piece stop adjuster. Use a very small file, like an auger-bit file, to remove burrs from the cut ends of the threads.Turn a hex nut and a plastic knob onto one end of each rod. Seat



^ the knob. then jam the nut against it very lightly to keep it from unthreading.

Install these screws and tension springs. The role of the springs is to keep the screws from rattling out of the posi-tion you set. Visit the hardware store and sort through the r assortment of compression springs until you find a style 5 that's the correct inside diameter, the correct length, and an appropriate stiffness.

7. Mount the toggle clamp. As noted, the toggle clamp is attached to a pad. which is in turn bolted to the jig. This arrangement allows me to shift the toggle clamp position more easily than if 1 had to withdraw and drive four mounting screws. I used a Dc-Sta-Co clamp—the model number is in the Hardware List—with a "reach" of about 2 to 2Vi inchcs.To me. reach is the distance from the clamp's mounting flange to the end of the bar to which the spindle is attached. You don't want to use too small a clamp. If you dowel wide frames, use a larger clamp, and shift the locations of the inserts so the clamp doesn't conflict with the template.

Cut the pad to the shape shown in the layout drawing. Clean up the edges. Screw the clamp to the pad. then mount the toggle on the jig.

The jig is ready for some doweling.

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