Flush Trimmer Router

Edge banding can be trimmed with a straight bit if you use this jig. The model shown in the following nvo photos attaches to a laminate trimmer, but you should be able to adapt the design (and size) to fit any lightweight router.

Just remember that because of the router's position, the balance of the jig can be really hurt by a heavy machine. That's why a lam trimmer is nice.

As you can see, the jig consists of a baseplate attached to a shoe. The side of the shoe is rabbeted and has a hole into which the bit projects. By pivoting the baseplate up and down, you adjust the position of the bit. determining how much or little it will remove from the work. At its highest setting, the bit may not even touch the work, while at its lowest setting, it'll probably cut a rabbet (a fact that might be useful to remember if you have a rabbet to cut).

Bear down on the jig's front end with one hand and push it along the work with the other. Y'ou can sec how a heavy router would throw the jig way out of balance and increase the work for you.










To use the jig, you rest the shoe's »Icon the work; the rabbet fits over the edge band to be trimmed. Turn on the router and slide the jig along ihewcrkpiecc, almost as though you wen: hand planing it. A feed direc t»nnote: Because of the orientation «'the router, the proper feed direction ¡Slight to left. The jig. as shown, 8set up to facilitate that.

The hand-planing comparison »pertinent, too, to how you set up the jig. Turn the jig over and sight along .he sole as you adjust the baseplate setting. Watch the bit's cut-ting edge, just as you watch die plane iron when setting it.

The jig is simple to make. The shoe k a piece of poplar 1V* inches by 3inches by 12 inches. One edge is rabbeted; the cut is Vi inch wide by /»inch deep. Drill a hole for the

To adjust the bit in the flush-trimming jfoycu swing the baseplate on its poor to raise or lower the router in rtktbn to the shoe. Sight along the sole at you move the baseplate, and uaieh the hit's cutting edge Just as mvuitch a hand plane iron when setting it. The cutting edge should be just Jhish with the sole.

To adjust the bit in the flush-trimming jfoycu swing the baseplate on its poor to raise or lower the router in rtktbn to the shoe. Sight along the sole at you move the baseplate, and uaieh the hit's cutting edge Just as mvuitch a hand plane iron when setting it. The cutting edge should be just Jhish with the sole.

bit imu the side thai will get the baseplate. Since the hole is offset and is not completely housed, we used a 1-inch-diamctcr Forstner bit to bore it. Drill a shallow hole for the 1-inch-diameter dowel handle, and glue the dowel in place. Finally, bore a Winch-diameter hole for the baseplate adjustment bolt.

The baseplate s cut from a piece of Winch plywood. The pattern shown will accommodate a Porter-Cable laminate trimmer, and probably most other brands of laminate trimmers, too. For a regular router of light weight, you'll have to enlarge the baseplate.

Cut the shape of the baseplate, and drill the bit hole and mounting-screw holes. Cut the short slot for the adjustment bolt. Then clamp the baseplate to the side of the shoe and drive a l-inch drywall screw pivot through die plate into the shoe. Install the washer and wing nut, hang the router on it, and you arc ready to go.

Edge Band-Trimming Baseplate

So far, I've given you baseplates and jigs that'll work with laminate trimmers, and maybe with lightweight routers. But what do woodworkers with regular-sized horsc-and-a-half Poner-Cables, Boschs, and the like do? For trimming edge banding, this jig is the answer. It perches the router atop the edge banding and uses a mortising or bottom-cleaning bit to do the trimming.

It has a fair amount in common with the offset baseplate and the homemade edge guide, found in the chapters "Custom Baseplates" and "Dadoing and Grooving." respectively. What makes it different is the recess routed across the bottom at the bit hole. The recess functions exactly the way the rabbet in the flush-trimming jig does, capturing the unit over excess edge banding. The fcncc bolted to the underside

of ihe baseplate references the edge of the work to guide the router, but it also adjusts to narrow the bit exposure.

The offset of the baseplate helps you steady the unit and keep it flat on the work. The operational bugbear, as with most of these gizmos, is the wobble or tilt, which produces a gouge in the area being trimmed. The hefty knob gives you something to grasp and press firmly upon.

To use the baseplate, replace your router's standard baseplate with it. Fit a K-inch bottom-cleaning bit in the collet, and adjust it to just clear a flat surface the baseplate rests on. Adjust the fence to cover the pan of the bit that isn't necessary to trim the banding, and cinch it tight.

All set! Place the router on the edge of the work, with the bit perched atop the edge banding and the fenee against the work's edge. Tip the router so the bit is just free of the work, switch on the machine, and lower the bit.

Ordinarily, left to right is the proper feed direction for this sort of edge-guided operation. But we've found that you reducc the risk of tear-out if you make a climb cut.

If you don't have a laminate trimmer, this baseplate allows you to use a regular router and a bottoming-cleaning bit for flush trim-ming edge banding. Rather than addressing the edge from a horizontal [rosition, the router is upright. And the baseplate has an offset that gives the operator extra leverage to keep the router square to the surface.

which is to say, move the router right to left.

To make the baseplate, begin with a 7K-inch by lO'/?-inch rectangle of '/6-inch plywood (the baseplate) and a 2'/>-inch by 7y^inch strip of W-inch hardwood (the fcncc).

1. Remove your router's factory baseplate, and set it on the plywood. The jig shown is for a router with a 6-inch-diametcr baseplate; if yours is larger, increase the width of the plywood accordingly. Since the rower is deliberately offset a little toward the pivot edge, there's room lor the adjusting slot without increasing the plywood's width. When the finished baseplate is attached to the router, you'll doubtless want the handles aligned cither parallel to the fence or perpendicular to it. Position the baseplate mounting holes now so you'll have the router oriented as you prefer it later. Drill and countersink the holes.

2. Fit the bit you're going to use in the router, then mount the plywood on the router. With the router turned on. advance the bit into the plywood, cutting the bit hole. Remove the plywood from the router.

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pivot 60lt pivot 60lt

3. Clamp the fence to the bottom of ineplywood. The inner edge should beabcut V* inch shy of the bit hole. Scribe a line along this edge.

Nov drill the pivot-bolt hole and the adjusting-bolt hole through the fence and base. Insert the pivot bolt m its iole, and loosen the clamps. Swing the fence on the pivot bolt until iijust covers the bit hole. Scribe ilong the fence to lay out one edge of the recess. Then, using the existing adjusting bolt hole in the fence as a guide, drill through the base a second time. The two holes mark (he beginning and end of the adjust-mg slot, finally, pull the pivot bolt indinsen the adjusting bolt, positioning the fence to lay out the last edge of the recess.

4. Rout the adjusting slot on the toutct table. Use an overarm pivot inserted in the baseplate's pivot hole »locate the slot's arc from hole to hole

5. Rout the recess in the baseplate next. Make it about l/a inch deep. For the most tidy results, use a fence to portion the shoulder cuts, and rout out any remaining waste freehand. It isn't essential that the edges Ix perfectly straight, of course, so you could do the entire job freehand.

The work is done underneath. The recess allows the baseplate to fit over the un-trimmed edge handing and sit fiat on the countcrtop. For maneuvering the jig around a corner, the angle of the recess away from the bit needs to be quite steep.

6. To finish up, lay out the shape of the baseplate and cut it on a band saw or with a saber saw. Sand the edges and apply a finish. Bolt the fence in place, and install the knob. We usee a plastic knob from Reid Tool Supply. 2265 Black Creek Road.

Muskegon. Ml 4944-», 800-253-0421; part #DK-330; but a hand-turned knob maybe more attractive.

Attach the baseplate to your router and you're ready to trim some edge banding.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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  • Temshe
    When flush trimming which way should u move the router?
    3 years ago

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